twoeightythreez

1)Alternator located in engine valley area, with drive belts arranged differently 2)Starter motor on opposite side (compared to Vh45 and most other nissan engines) 3)Bellhousing pattern offset to match different starter location, and dowel pins in different spots. I had to modify my Mazworks adapter plate to work, but easy to do with hand tools (mark and drill new holes, bolt pattern is still identical) 4)Vh41 has a nice cast aluminum oil pan, with a flat bottom, which is great for mockups and storage (not to mention heat transfer!) because it will sit nice and even on a pallet! VH45 had a stamped-steel oil pan. i believe the capacities were identical, but the VH41 definitely wins in this regard. 5)75mm throttle body rather then 90mm (and all came with traction control) 6)Vehicle immobilizer standard on 41's (so either use 45 computer and harness or get Nats turned off by a nissan ecu specialist such as Jim Wolf) 7)Intake manifold VERY different (US market VH41 only) 8)VTC solenoids screw into cyl. heads on 41's, like RB25's setup 9)Power steering pump on opposite side (from VH45) 10) No ignitor chips on VH41, power transistor is part of each coil pack 11)Different water pump pulley to suit different belt drive arrangement 12)Log style Cast iron exhaust manifolds rather than tubular exhaust manifolds. At least the pre cats unbolt from the Vh41 manifold, unlike the tubular manifolds of the VH45. VH41 manifolds are much closer to block. 13)No coil covers on Vh41, coils are happy to be seen. 14)VH41 engine harness has built-in fuel pump relay for all you guys swapping into cars not factory equipped with EFI. Sweet. 15) due to more compact accessory arrangements, Vh41 is about 1.5" narrower than Vh45 despite having identical bore, bore spacing and deck height. IMHO the VH41 is the better engine. The rotating assembly is interchangeable, so you can easily up the stroke, and all the other setbacks I'm sure are easily fixed (by porting the heads, etc.) and the accessory mounting just plain makes more sense. (e.g. the VH45's alternator is wedged between the A/C compressor and a hot exhaust manifold. No wonder the alternators go bad on them all the time!) I'll try to get some pics (since I'm starting a VH 240sx build soon) once I know where the project is headed. Since so many people are doing this swap now, I think I'm going to have to lean toward a wilder build, involving itb's and turbos.

I don't know if there's any difference but I'll quick measure it to see. I'll let you know tomorrow. I have a VH45 from my 95 Q that I was going to use in my S14 but yesterday pulled a VH41 out of a '98 Q that I'm going to use instead. It looks identical, but the 41 has a way more compact intake manifold (and exhaust manifolds, too!) and I believe the ignitors are built into it's coils. Also, the alternator is on top of the intake (like where a caddy 472's A/C compressor is) and the P/S pump is tucked under the right bank (so all I apparently need to do is use SOHC S13 power steering lines!) ALso, the 41 I just got has 93K miles and my VH45, while reliable as the sun for me, has 188k miles on it. Choice made. I can always put the Vh45 crank in later. The VH41 has slightly higher compresson then the 45 also (10.2:1 for the 45 and 10.5:1 for the 41)....it actually is only about 10hp shy of the 45.... I've heard that you can bore a VH to 98mm? Is that true? THis would open up options like using Buick 350 pistons or something..... TO get back on subject, though, I believe all the people who are posting different external dimensions are not taking into account how much more compact the manifolds and accessories are on the 41. It's like Nissan saw an LS1 and liked what they saw, because that's what a VH41 looks like. A DOHC LS1. Oh yes...here are the bore and stroke specs for the motors VH45: Bore 93mm Stroke 82.7mm Comp. ratio 10.2:1 Rated HP 276 TQ 293 Vh41 Bore 93mm Stroke 73mm (yes a V-8 with a stroke of 2.99in.) Comp. ratio 10.5:1 Rated HP 266 TQ 279 Looks to me as if deck height may be the same, and if it is possibly could build a long rod VH45 someday While the horsepower numbers are not much different, despite the 45 having almost a quarter inch more stroke, I belive that nissan underated the 45's. A lot. I never dyno'd the Q (it sure could make that 4200lb sled fly though...and yes, they do weigh that much, the gross weight rating was nearly 5300lb. I verified this when I stripped my Q down and the shell alone..as in no interior, no glass, no brakes, no tires, no gas tank, no mechanicals, no wiring, and no doors, hood, or trunk, bumpers, or lights, weighed 1400lb...well OK I left the subframes in it....so the body still weighed half a ton....whew!) but I'm sure it would have belted out RWHP numbers close to the rated net HP, like the LS motors do. The 41, probably makes what it says.

The most significant option is your driving style. You're in LA so you most likely drive like you're late for a date with carmen electra even if you have nowhere to go, so you're not gonna get 28mpg no matter what you put in your car. I've already seen people get 20+mpg with a SUBURBAN, becasue they were obsessed with mileage, and drove accordingly . Pretty much you keep the engine vacuum as high as possible, avoid sudden throttle inputs, and conserve momentum as much as possible (meaning no juking from lane to lane, getting off and on your gas and brakes), and you'll get good mileage. Some food for thought; the stock 1978 280z managed 29mpg on the highway, EPA, The 1975 Datsun 210 was rated at 39mpg highway, and 29 city so mileage isn't something new. My suggestion would be an RB20DET (about 210hp stock and 27mpg highway) and a light foot on the highway, but that's just me. IF you want to stick with USDM motors, the easiest route would be the L28ET, the smog popos would probably not even notice it, and use a megasquirt and lean it out on the highway, my L28ET swapped Z got 30 honest to god mpg on the highway (I calculated it with mileage on a map, not the odometer) when I drove it across the country, (and I had a big FMIC, 437cc injectors, and ran 10psi boost..but only under load) I maintained 80-90mph, and was running 16.5:1 afr's under light load and had as light a foot as possible (the afr went right back up as soon as I saw load) The car had to have been making at least 200hp and 300ft/lb when I was on it, and it still got over 20mpg all the time when I drove it right. But the most significant thing you can do for gas mileage is your driving style, bar none.

Dude, I don't easily move my L series BLOCK around on my own... __________________ Gollum, The L-series BLOCK is six cyl. long and cast iron, not good for picking up. (though I can drag a complete L28ET across the floor without too much trouble...picking it up....well that's a different story) Plus, it's easier to pick up a motor from a squatting position, as in getting an engine out of a van, than from the floor, esp a longblock because you can grab the manifolds.... I was able to get a full dressed chevy 350 onto a pallet myself, it's all about using the rounded surfaces of the motor and inertia to your advantage (LOL) P.S.-I'm 5'6" and weigh 145 soaking wet.... if I can do it, well you know.....

1. What speedometer solution would you need since the ECU is VW, the transmission is Toyota (different ratios) and the rear end isn't the same? Is the ECU flashable to input the the ratios to provide an accurate speed or am I over thinking this? Yes.....Z has a speedo cable, get one made that will screw onto the toyota R150 trans. Problem solved. Will the transmission/rear end gears keep the diesel at peak efficiency? It would suck to go through the effort just to end up over-revving or bogging it because the gearing is goofed. I would guess teh stock Z gearing would be a bit short for a diesel but not too bad (remember the stock L engines only made power to about 5000rpm, they would pull higher but not make any more power) Would love to do this in a Z32, would make an awesome cruiser/daily driver. Umm...if you say so:) You would be slower than the VG30DE and the mileage wouldn't be that much better (turbodiesel or not I feel a sub-2.0 liter engine is way too small for a car as heavy as a Z32!) Use my Frontier (VG33ER) as an example. Truck weighs 4500lb and gets about 15mpg, and on the highway with me pussyfooting it I barely managed 17mpg. My mom's '99 Yukon 1500 (which easily weighs at least 300lb more than my frontier) with a 350 gets 18 on the highway without trying. Small engines when coupled to heavy cars, are percieved economy. There is a point where the small engine is working so hard that any mileage savings will be offset by the fact that you're always on it, where the bigger engine is just loafing along. So, if you're looking for fuel mileage, I would suggest a bigger diesel. But that's just me.

If you didn't already solve your problem I would have said just use the oil filter nipple from a non-turbo L28.....

Chris, just wondering if you are using the RB's dropping resistor? (the plug you're talking about goes to the injectors!) You really should use it if you're not RB's have low impedance injectors.....though I'm sure you are because it's running and all Zmaster...it's really not hard to do this wiring, you just need patience (and a soldering iron) )

The bellhousings unbolt, so if you have one for an RB25, it should work. (Though I'm pretty sure the RB25 used the RE40401...it looks smaller than the Q's) I know where to get an RB25 auto if you're interested, or I'll sell you my Q trans (187k miles on it but it still worked)...cheap.

I can do that, also if you send me your mailing address to bryan.edgar@rcn.com I can send you one of the intake runners, too!

Mudge, 400 buick was the big block (400-430-455) Oiling problems are easily solved. 350's had same size cam bearings as the big block so upgrades are worthwhile here. Might want to procure a new timing cover since the oil pump gears ride in it..(apparently the AMC and buick engineers were both smokin that stuff when they designed this)..most likely original cover will be scored beyond tolerance and engine will starve for oil...with buick's huge main and rod journals it doesn't take much to wipe a bearing out. Part of the problem is also the passenger side lifters were fed through the front cam bearing, once it wore down it blocked flow to that side of the motor, especially because the oil pump is driven from the front of the camshaft. Make sure you have good oil pressure, buicks won't live on 40psi@ 6000 rpm like a chev will....buicks like about 65. (once again those 3.25" main journals are haunting it) Recommend buying "Guide to Buick Performance Engines" by Steven L. Dove...tells you everything you need to know.

How hard was it to adapt the HEI dizzy? Makes it look like a Buick 215, of all things

Please tell me you have some of these setups for a VH45...oh please oh please I am going to put one in an S14 (sold my S30, had too many cars unfortunately) and want to ditch the stock intake.

Not only that if you get lucky at the junkyard you can score a Z32 5-speed for less than a hundred bucks!

Olds 350 is good, mock it up run it awhile and then look for a 455....will bolt right up to mounts and transmission (It'll even LOOK the same as the 350) and all you'll have to do is fab an upper alt. bracket (hint: a couple of 3/8" washers welded to the 350's upper bracket space it out perfectly) to compensate for the bigger motor's 1/4" taller deck height. Awesome! Once you search you'll find that the olds 350 is about as similar to a chev 350 as DQ chocolate ice cream is to DQ vanilla ice cream. (both are pushrod OHV V-8's built by GM, both are good choices, but all similarity ends there.) As far as the mounts, they'll be a good start. (you'll have to make different set back plates because the bolt pattern for the mount to the block is different from a chebby but it wasn't that hard for my buddy and I to mount a 425 rocket into a buick skylark so once again the JTR kit should get you well on the way to a wicked Z car.)

Unfortunately, I have sold my S30, but I have a VH45 and plan to put it into my S14...

My experience with it was to get you engine to operating temperature. Now, starting the lowest cranking pulse value, adjust it until the engine won't start, then go about .2ms above that. ASE is only to keep the engine running after starting, but you have to set that when the engine is at operating temp also. The ASE will automatically tailor itself according to engine temp so you want to set that when it's warm. Once you get all those set you can then do a baseline for cold start, about 4x your warm value (remember you want the car to just kick over when it's hot with the cranking enrichment, the ASE will keep it running.) After that , it's a matter of tuning it over several cold starts, just like you used to do with automatic choke rods back in the day. (MS really is just as simple, people just nuke it apparently) The only difference is instead of bending a rod and starting it you enter some keystrokes and start it..... Btw..you can also run closed loop with a narrow band sensor, it'll keep it near stoich during cruise conditions, just like the 90's factory EFI cars.

I had mine running 16.5:1 when cruising cross country. 30mpg. Yes it did stumble a little bit but as soon as I saw any load it would richen straightaway. It was pretty neat seeing the car accelerate up hills without touching the gas pedal. I have since been running it richer. It still goes to around 17:1 when decelerating.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PK2BzUE8aw

also check for a clogged cat. If it's partially clogged you will idle and drive fine but when you get on it, you won't have any power, and the engine will surge like it's running really lean, but you'll have black smoke coming out the back like it's too rich. I found that out on mine, kept leaning out the maps and it would NOT lean out, finally pulled the exhaust and checked ,and voila! Clogged catalytic converter. Everyone kept telling me it couldn't be it since the car seemed to rev fine (which it did, until you hit about 4500 rpm or so)

my production date is 3/78... so they obviously made them till that long....I'm not sure what month they stopped making s30's officially though. Yup...mine was built 5/78, making it one of the last S30's. HLS30564434

78 280z- Bryan '81 F54 block '83 P90a head '83 optical distributor MS-II EMS, mounted in stock ECU location, spark and fuel, complete with 4bar MAP upgrade, and IAC control (I built it myself so it cost me about the same as a base MS1 assembled) ford 437cc/min injectors big ol' intercooler up front (I believe it's 24x12x3?) 60mm throttle body 4.11 200sx rear (r200) 81 280zx 5 speed (non turbo) fidanza aluminum flywheel and centerforce stage II clutch (can't hold it) relatively fresh paint (looks great) redone interior new weatherstrip all new emblems except for the sail panels (those were in great condition) speedhut gauge faces and matching AFR and boost/vac gauge (blue with white lettering) Innovative LC-1 wideband controller stock T-3 turbo, rebuilt oogly '76 bumpers here's some vids on youtube: it burns a lot of oil and isn't that fast but it's fun. (well it's faster now since I've unclogged the Exhaust...clogged cat) Here's a startup video when I first got it running. (on Naval base 32nd street, eons ago) http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p315/twoeightythreez/?action=view&current=bryanspics1008.flv Here's another video of shortly after the swap http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p315/twoeightythreez/?action=view&current=bryanspics1016.flv Here's a picture. (this was when I was still in the Navy and in Cali) It's for sale. I'm more interested right now in doing a VH45/5spd S14 and I have too many cars. Asking 6500obo (and if you give me 6.5 K I'll meet you halfway up to 1000 mi.) I have over 10k in the car and I'm not gonna totally lose my butt on it. Besides, good luck building one for that You can drive this baby anywhere, seriously. I drove it x country. get this...it's actually good in snow...check this vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WQBBFTzDBw

stock L28ET, with proper tuning, makes some dang awesome torque, too, just my .02 (i can pull out in 4th without a problem, I could probably pull that stump out of your backyard with my gas L28et) Mine spools up off idle and hits full boost at about 2200.....I can bark the tires shifting at 2500rpm in 2nd and third...but not at 4000rpm...like a diesel. I can get people to think it's a diesel cuz it burns a LOT of oil (badly stuck oil rings but great compression) ..it's still slow because it won't rev above 5000...and makes power up to about 3800...I think it's an ignition problem..(well I guess it eventually is when the plugs foul).going to get some hotter plugs and keep tuning but I think the motor's screwed (uses a qt of oil every 100mi)

I actually think that Z held up pretty well, considering the post it first showed up in admitted to hitting at 30-40mph, hitting an object that's one foot in diameter, and solid as rock. A modern car might do well but even 5 years ago they weren't much safer than the Z in a side impact with a telephone pole. (stiffer but heavier, more kinetic energy to dissipate on the same size object) A few weeks ago two kids died in a 2002 eclipse, here in Allentown, on hanover avenue. I was walking my dog and came upon it as the firemen were trying to get the passenger out (who died before they did) That Z looks good in comparison to the eclipse, the front bumper was touching the back bumper. Witnesses said shortly before the crash the car flew by doing 80-90 (in a 35, but the curve is marked 25)before losing control on the deceptively sharp curve (it starts out easy and suddenly turns sharper) but they slid about 100-200 ft before crashing, so impact speed couldn't have been much above 45-50. So I really don't think a Z is too unsafe for what it is (30+ yr. old tiny little car) All I'm saying is that the Z isn't an unsafe car, it's just not as safe as today's cars.

Here is a video of me driving at night with my speedhut gauge faces. The stock bulbs light the needles up nicely and the reverse EL glo lets you see the numbers. The effect is actually quite factory looking. The stock lighting is also much brighter if you punch out the green "colorizers" in those stock gauges, then it's a nice cool white light.

Ok I'm very, very impressed with this awesome piece of machinery, but the way they try to make everything sound technically cool and unique is funny... I'll translate what the benz spec sheet said. The technology in this thing is awesome. for example: Integrated sequential multipoint fuel injection (standard on every new GM since the 90's) and phased twin-spark ignition (sounds like wasted spark ignition "twin spark" COP also on GM products) includes individual cylinder control of fuel spray( every sequential multipoint EFI does this), spark timing and phase (also known as "ignition timing and dwell control", standard on every car with distributorless ignition), and antiknock(any decent EFI , especially distributorless, also has a knock sensor!). Electronic throttle includes adaptive accelerator, which provides more rapid throttle opening in response to the speed at which the accelerator pedal is depressed.(which means that MB made an electric throttle behave like a cable...BRAVO! Talk about using technology just to use it) Two high-energy ignition coils and two spark plugs per cylinder(which is a fancy way of saying individual coils) , with 100,000-mile spark plug intervals (all new cars have this, new emission standards must be met 100k down the road) Again not knocking anything...I just love when some advertising guy tries to make everyday stuff (even if it's a bit more advanced than your average car's EFI) seem exotic. In a nutshell, the only thing that really has that your average late model General motors or Nissan or toyota or.....you name it product doesn't is...nothing. (None of those cars have 1000ft lb of torque either, I'm definitely respecting the car, and MB, but I just hate to see something that's only reasonably complicated be made to sound like rocket science.) All of the ignition control, fuel control, electronic throttle, and spark plug features of that benz can also be found on a garden variety Cobalt, but they don't advertise it like it's some new development. (of course I'm sure the benz is much more refined, as it's price would justify.)