rucus01

The took it to the machine shop yesterday and took care of it for me John. Its already in the mail on its way back. I appreciate all the help. I cant recommend unitrax enough. They did a great job at a reasonable price. I cant think you enough either for the help John.

Just spoke with Devin again and he said they are taking the pinion to there machine shop and they are going to grind it down to clear. Hopefully that will work without a problem.

Devin is still working on it but basically he said it would work with the open, but the osgiken is .040 bigger than the open carrier so it wont fit. I sent him all the info on the gears and he is going to try and work something out. I was just curious if anyone else has run into this problem.

I ordered the Kameari 3.15 R200 Gear set for my rear end. Unitrax is saying that the pinonion is too big to work with any LSD. Has anyone else run into this or does anyone have any ideas on a resolution?

R200 with 3.15 gear set and OS Giken superlocker, and suspension from JohnC.

I noticed the kit bolts to the stub shafts instead of having splines on the diff side. I have heard that one of the weak points of the half shaft is where splines meet to the stubshaft.

Thanks jon thats the one. I ordered a bunch from courtesy.

I am replacing the rear suspension / diff in my 77. Some of the bolts and nuts are suffering from being 30 plus years old, and a few are suffering from me rounding them off while removing them. I have the diagrams from courtesy nissan and I am trying to figure out the part numbers. I have figured out the part numbers for the bolts that go into the stub axles, and I think I have found the part number for the assosiated nut. Does anyone know if the nut that attaches to the studs on the companion flange are the same part number?

The first thing you need to determine is if the knock is occuring at engine speed or at half engine speed. If it occurs at half engine speed its likely a collapsed hydraulic lifter. If thats all it is it can be changed easily and even if it isnt it wont cause a problem as long as it quits shortly after startup. If the knock is occuring at engine speed it likely the bottom end and will get progressivly worse.

Good thing I dont have it that way today, its coming down like crazy out there.

Engines typically run best at whats called minimum best timing. That is the least amount of timing that gets you the peak power. The things that determine where your minimum best timing are burn rate of the fuel, size and shape of the chamber, temperature of the heads, compression ratio, rod stroke ratio, and bore to stroke ratio. The better the combustion chamber is designed the less timing will be required. Most pump gas motors usually have a MBT in the 32-40 range. Since your motor probably is on the low compression side, and has a fairly open chamber it will probably increase in power slightly up to 38-40. If you run more than that like are likely well past your MBT and are likely causing your engine to lose power even if you arent detonating, since your peak pressure timing event is before optimal. Your MSD ignition is likely causing your MBT to be lower than it would be with stock ignition because it is giving you a hotter spark which will start the fire a bit quicker. The best way to determine what you should have your timing set at is with a chassis dyno. Set the timing to stock settings, then run it on the chassis and see what your WHP is. Bump it a degree or two in either direction and see if your WHP increases or decreases. Once you determine this you simply set it to the lowest advance that will give you peak HP.

I have about 1/2" between the top of the throttle boddy and the stock hood, so it would have to be REAL low profile and would provide a great deal of restriction.

You are right it doesnt rain as much as it did when I lived in Louisiana. I do have a scoop, just dont like how much it blocks my vision. I guess i could see about making something a bit smaller.

I currently have a hood scoop on my s30 because my air cleaner sticks up above the hood line. What do you think of just leaving a small hole in the hood for the base of the air cleaner and then just putting the air cleaner on after I close the hood? Do you think this is doable or are there any concerns?

Get a fuel pump and a pressure regulator. And 10 degrees is no where near enough for that cam. That cam will need at least 16-20 to idle well.

If your car has a hot cam its not uncommon for it to need a minimum of 18-20 BDC timing at idle. when the throttle blades are closed you will probably find it will run best in the 26-30 BDC range at idle. You need to set it where it idles best, then use a dialback gun to check it at 3500 rpm when it comes all in. Adjust the stop in the distributor so it limits your total timing to something around 35. As for the plug wire being in the wrong spot they probably just stabed it in a different location, this wont hurt anything but might make your plug runs a bit less neat.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRL-TP-1121/

I have a 3.54 welded R200 in mine. My dad decided to drive it in the ice one day. He did some landscaping on the neighbors yard when he tried to turn back into the driveway.

There are a few things we will need to know in order to help you. First what cam is in it? You say it is lopey but what are the specs on it? If you cant find this can you provide a vacuum reading at idle? Have you read the plugs, do they show rich or lean? How much initial / total timing do you have on the engine? What kind of transmission / torque convertor is fitted to the motor? Jerking on decel sounds more like a transmission problem than an engine problem.

I am sure it is going lean (I have a lc-1 with a guage and you can see it briefly go up when u stomp it) I just am not sure if its not getting enough gas or if its just not lighting it correctly. I bought the bigger kit that edelbrock sells and they claim it supports 550 HP. They do offer a 42 lb injector set I can buy that they claim supports up to 620 hp. I guess I could buy those and see if it helps. As far as the cam I use to run a 242/242 108lsa. I was looking for something with a better idle. It still doesnt have a smooth idle, but its more tolerable. I have a set of indy heads with a stage 1 port (bowl) port done on them and I imagine some of the idle roughness comes from low port velocity.

Grumpy, I have a 77 S30 with a mopar 440 in it. The engine is 10.7:1 compression, has a custom grind comp cam hyd roller 224/230 112lsa with .585 lift. I have sandersan shorty block huggers with 1 7/8 primaries going into dual 3" pipes. I have installed a edelbrock pro-flo 2 system and I am having transient fuel problems. The system has a 35 lb/hr fuel injectors in it. The engine idles reasonably well, and drives well as long as you dont nail it. When you nail it goes lean regardless of how much transient fuel you add. Is there a way I can determine if I am having ignition problems or if the injectors are really too small? I have a crane hi-6 going into a blaster 2 coil. I am concerned that I might spend $500 bucks for a set of higher flowing injectors and still have the same problem.

Lots of things could be going on. Next time it happens have a volt meter handy. connect it to the +,- Lugs on the battery and have someone hit the key and try and start it. If the voltage drops below about 9.0 you have a supply problem. If it does drop do the same test again but connect the meter to the battery. If it drops at the battery then your battery is toast. If the voltage stays up even when the key is engaged but the car doest start its most likely an issue with the starter. You say it happens after a short drive, does it only happen when the car is hot? If so you could be running into a heat soak problem.

Turn the engine to around 10 degrees before TDC by hand. Pull the cap and verify the rotor is pointing to the number 1 cylinder. Check your plug wires, make sure the firing order is correct.

Why would you elmeniate the vacuum advance? Without a load compensation device the timing will be well below optimal when driven on the street. A properly tuned vacuum advance will yield to a much cleaner idle along with a much more effecient cruise.

You are going to need a transmission also. And with that cam you will need an above stock stall. Dont forget fuel pump, distributor, gaskets, headers and exahust.