rucus01

That cam is insane and may not even start that motor.

Takes about 2 hours with an air chissel.

What fan are you using? What is the CFM rating on it? I found with my setup the that E fan makes more difference than anything else you can buy. You need a good shroud to make sure the air is pulling directly through the radiator and a fan with a good cfm rating. Go to the yard and find one of the ugly model ford taurus and pull the E-fan from it. It moves more air then the expensive flexalites and will cost you about $15.

What is the software package you are using for that home screen? Is that something you custom wrote or something you found and modified?

It could be evaporating from the ground/engine before you see it. I would check the oil and see if it has coolant in it. If not pressure it up and take a good look at all the usual suspects.

I tried that for a while it gets real expensive

This would be a much more appropriate cam for a street driven motor. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-201264/

Are you pushing the gas pedal down when you let go of the clutch? What gear are you in?

I have the HI-6 and have it mounted behind the passenger seat. Works fine. In fact if you read the instructions on most of them they recommend mounting them in the cab.

I have a fiberglass cowl induction hood if you are interested. Will sell it real cheap. Has a couple of nicks in from shipping but can easily be fixed.

Check your timing with a dialback gun at 3000. You want to be in the 32-39 degrees range. With those heads it will prob run best around 34-35. If you get it on the money I would bet you do over 300 at the wheel.

If you do the SAE correction for those conditions it shows you should of made 371 at the crank. Poor exahust and a tune that is a bit off, and I can see you dropping to 300 fairly easy, which is about what you made. Do the things we mentioned and tighten up your tune and you should be able to hit 270-280 at the wheels under the same conditions. I would check the things that you did on the motor for problems (exahuast leak,plugs,plugwires,are the secondaries on the carb opening?)

I would check the timing and make sure its following the a good curve. You could have too much or not enough timing. Find out from year one what it should be when its all in. Also check your manifold temperature and see if its too hot. Check your exahust manifold for any leaks. You mention that you are using a cast Iron manifold, its possible it isnt sufficent for that combo. What size and what kind of exahust do you have on the car past the manifold ? That cam has a decent amount of overlap and if you arent extracting properly your mixture will be dirty and you HP will be way down.

I would recommend either a 727 or an A833. You will need to purchase an aftermarket shifter like a B&M that uses a cable linkage. They come with brackets that will get the geomtry on the shifts correct. You will also need to look at one of the cable kickdown conversions or run a full manual valve body because the rod likely will not fit in the tunnel. Most of the racing guys prefer the 727 because the internal are lighter than the a833. If you want a 4 speed you will need to do an a833 though, but it will probably cost you time in the quarter.

MSD makes a high temp boot that is made out of a special rubber that devulanizes at a very high temperature 900+ degrees. You will have to cut your existing wires and put these on there. They will work unless you are actually touching the headers with the boots and they cost about 12 dollars for a set. If you are actually touching the headers then accell makes a ceramic boot that will work up to around 2000 degrees.

Almost all enginees will try and roll to the passenger side due to the clockwise rotation. The only exception would be some of the older honda motors that turned counterclockwise. The mount that almost always breaks it the one on the driver side that is being stretched. My mount was never "breaking" but the rubber bushing on the passenger side was being compressed almost 2 inches, which was enough to cause stress on headers and pop the bolts.

I took a chain and wraped it around the cross member, then put a 4 inch long bolt into the block and tightened it down with a large turnbuckle. Worked like a champ. Worked like a champ. Before that the motor would roll over so much it would pop all the header bolts.