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Jethoncho

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Everything posted by Jethoncho

  1. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Back to metal work the past couple of days...finished welding on the left rear quarter replacement. It needs a little hammer and dolly wok but overall I am happy with how it turned out. Next the forward section of the left door jamb had a bit of rust neat the hinges. It wasn’t rusted through but I cut it out and replaced it anyway. The upper windshield frame had a small area of rust through...it took a small 2” by 0.5” patch welded in to correct this area. Still to go on he left side...small area on the floorboard (7”x10”), this will be a little work since it’s in the area where there are two drain holes and some bead rolling. I did take a little diversion to restore a 240Z steering wheel that I plan to use...I bead blasted the metal to remove old paint and surface rust. Next I repainted the spokes with POR15 satin black. After a day to dry/cure, I sanded the simulated wood and newly painted surfaces with 600 grit and applied thee coats of satin clear coat. I am extremely pleased with the outcome...too bad I’m likely a year away from installing it but it is gratifying and does help to keep me motivated.
  2. Hello All, And so begins the epic journey to go from rough unloved 280Z to a resto-modded RB25 equipped super car. I realize I’m not blazing any trails that haven’t been traversed so I will benefit from anyone’s input as this project progresses. I’m starting with a ‘78 280Z and a series 2 RB25. With the size of the project I’m sure I’ll be all over the place in the beginning until I can get a solid plan worked out. My initial plan is to get the current L28 running so I can sell it and the 5-speed tranny as operational component. Once I have the engine running I’ll pull the engine, all associated wiring and ECU and transmission to make room for the RB25. I have already acquired the RB and started the process to convert the forward sump oil pan to a rear sump. Once the rear sump conversion is complete I’ll drop her in to mock up mounts. I know there are kits out there for this but I prefer to utilize factory RB mounts so I’ll mock up new engine stands for my subframe. If possible, I’ll also look to move and modify the existing transmission tunnel/rear body mounted structure aft to permit a more symmetrical rear crossmember/mount. Once the RB is mocked up in the body I will switch my focus to restoration of the body. I plan to go with retro-spec Carbon Fiber front fenders, headlight buckets, hood, BRE style front spoiler, cowl, rear hatch and BRE style rear spoiler. I will also retrofit 240z bumpers with no rubber or overrides. I have no illusion, this is a huge project but with support I hope to get through it. When I purchased the 280 it appears to have been sitting for at least 25 years and it’s mostly unmolested. It has some rust in the usually spots but is not a total rust bucket. I believe I am starting with a base car that is worthy of this project. I’ll post a couple pics and try to do regular updates but I travel a lot for work so I’m sure there will be times when updates are further apart. For now here are some baseline photos. I look forward to loads of input from experts here!
  3. Jethoncho

    Series 2 240Z Steering Wheel

    Hello, i am am looking for a Series 2 240Z Steering Wheel, like to find something in restorable condition to install in my ‘78 280. I’d prefer a complete setup with a good condition horn buttom but i’m Open to options. thanks, Robert
  4. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Thanks to those that reached out to me regarding the CV boots clearance on the lower BC coilover mount with T3 mounting tabs. I returned from four days on the road and decided to tackle this dilemma...I previously mocked up the rear suspension and figured out BC sent me a set of front coilovers instead of rears. I contacted BC while I was on the road and they were kind enough to send me a set of rear shocks and springs so I disassembled the rear and built it back up with the new parts while also incorporating T3 camber plates. To use the T3 camber plates T3 sent me bushings meant to integrate their camber plates with the BC coilovers...I decided I wanted to use the BC bushings instead so I took the BC nut and pillow bushing and turned (lathe) the bushing portion down to 15.76mm to fit inside the T3 bearing in their camber plate. Next after building up the rear coilovers with the correct parts I mocked in an axle and I have good clearance on the CV boot. I attribute this to the fact my lower mounts are likely front mounts and my T3 tabs extend beyond the lower end of the lower mount by a little over an inch or so. My lower mounts have a reduction in diameter about 4 inches from the lower edge so I attached the T3 mounting tabs even with the upper edge of the larger diameter on the lower mount. I posted up a few photos to illustrate what I’m talking about. With the T3 camber plates and T3 lower control arms I don’t anticipate any issue with camber adjustment either.
  5. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    I’ll be updating this thread as I progress. The BC Coilovers are new but they shipped me a set of fronts that are currently mocked up on the vehicle. BC already sent me some replacement parts to swap out to correct this issue. Once I get these swapped out and install the axles I’ll get some more photos up. I am traveling for work so it will be a couple days.
  6. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Your rear setup looks great! I appreciate your input regarding the requirements to run T3 style tabs on the lower BC Coilover Mount. This is helpful...I’ll keep this thread updated as I make progress.
  7. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Thanks for the heads up, I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel here but I want to try to keep to BC stuff on all four corners. Right now the car is mocked up with the T3 tabs on my BC coilovers. So far camber and clearances look fine but I’ll have a closer look after I get the axles mocked in.
  8. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    I finished the initial mock up my rear suspension and came up with the following approximate measurements. The suspension consist of: Full T3 rear end swap kit, minus the T3 coilovers. BC Coilovers with T3 tabs welded to the BC lower mounts...this allows the BC coilovers to be bolted to the T3 hub mounting plates. The resultant clearance is in the drawing attached. Given these dimensions I believe I should be able to stuff a 9.5" wheel in the well but its going require a positive offset of approximately 40. I may be able to adjust the lower control arms in a bit to get this down...I'll have to take a look at that.
  9. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    I back on the road for work but I get home Thursday. I’ll get some photos up when I get home.
  10. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Well I went back to my metal work...this past weekend I fabricated the aft driver’s side floor, there was a small area of rot but I ended cutting our a section approximately 6” long and the full width of the driver’s side. This required me to remove the rear seat mount. I also had to purchase a bead roller to roll reliefs/stiffeners in the replacement floor to allow it to fit properly over the aft section of the frame rail. All in all it came out pretty good. Still have a little welding to get this repair finished. It’s not very photo worthy but once I get the rear seat mount reinstalled I’ll snap a photo or two and post to this thread. Still have to get the driver side rear quarter welding completed but it’s on the list. Also spent some time over the weekend removing all the OEM rear drivetrain and suspension then installed all the T3 candy, both rear control arms, drop down mounts, mustache bar. It’s all in for mock up purposes but excited to see it in there just the same. I also installed the T3 front control arms. The quality and fitment of the T3 stuff is phenomenal... I highly recommend their stuff. i’ve posted a couple photos, please keep in mind this is only mocked up to ensure fitment, please excuse the condition of the bottom of the car...it’s on the list;-)
  11. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Okay on a different note, I have been following Ivan and Hung’s (Vintage Dashes) work on their fabrication of a new reproduction dashboard for the 280Z. Well, I received notification today that they are ready to start selling these and since I’m on their waiting list I was qualified to buy in their first offering. I paid their selling price immediately so I should have a new dashboard in 6-8 weeks! I’m excited at the prospect of getting rid of my seriously damaged dash for a new pristine dash. I’ll make sure I post when I receive it and install it.
  12. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    As predicted once the T3 candy showed up I couldn’t resist. Plus, I’m waiting on some welding aids to continue the left rear quarter so I unpacked all the T3 odds and ends, unforturnately a couple of pieces were damaged in shipping but as soon as I let T3 know they immediately shipped new parts. I was able to remove the stock left rear suspension and install the T3 control arm, hub adapter and BC coilover. The BC coilover was a weld in unit but T3 was kind enough to sell me their mounting tabs. My welder is not high enough amperage to weld the 1/4” plate tabs so they are only tacked in place until I can weld them up with a stronger TIG welder. I am quite pleased with the result,the rear end is lowered by about 3” on the initial setup...keep in mind these are only mocked up and will need final setup once they are permanently installed in the car. Next week I’ll get the right mocked up and lower the fronts to a move level attitude.
  13. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Jumped back on the left rear quarter panel. Started butt welding it in place but it’s slow work trying to prevent excessive warpage, plus I have a couple areas where I have an excessive gap between the weld area so I ordered a magnetic copper backing plate to back these areas up to aid in bridging the gap. I’ll get some photos up ASAP. On a different note, my rear end conversion kit from T3 arrives today so i’ll Probably get sidetracked from the quarter panel to mock up the new rear suspension and BC coilovers. I’ll keep you posted how it goes.
  14. Hello, i am searching for a left side 280Z 2+2 power window regulator to convert my Z to power windows. I already have a right side unit, this must be rare as hens teeth cuz I can’t seem to find one. Does anyone know of or have one to sell? thanks!
  15. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Been working on the rear valence for the past couple of days. Let me start by saying this replacement part is much heavier gauge than the original part but it was delivered in a nearly flat condition and the rear of the car is not flat so it takes quite a bit of massaging to get this panel to fit. And, the only part available is for a 240 so this creates more work too. The 280 bumper brackets (behind the valence) were bolted and welded to the chassis (genius), they are totally different than the 240 so these had to be cut off the chassis. Then I fabricated new ones to be welded back in place. Then the only indentation in the 240 valence falls right on the rear chassis crossmember so it had to go as well. Now Im ready to move forward with final fitment before I weld it in place. This piece is a lot of work but should be a vast improvement over what was there.
  16. Jethoncho

    RB25 with twin exhaust

    Thanks!
  17. Jethoncho

    RB25 with twin exhaust

    I am just putting this out there for comments. Anyone have any thoughts? I’d like to run this exhaust on my RB25 powered restomod...it’s twin 2” pipe from collector to tips. With twin 2” pipes that provides 6.283 vs 7.068sq inches for a 3” single. It’s slightly less area but I wonder how it would flow otherwise. Any experts here?
  18. Man that wheel/tire combo looks awesome! The car looks fantastic, actually much better than fantastic! If I understand what the final setup that worked for you it is: 1. You started with a 17x8.5 +4 offset wheel then added a 1” ring into it on the backside resulting in a new offset of 4 plus 1/2 the 1” or +16.5 2. Then added a 6mm spacer on the right and a 10mm on the left resulting in a net offset of +10.5 and +6.5 respectively Would it be safe to say if you had 3-4mm more space on the inner right side you could use a 17x9.5 wheel with a +6mm offset and no spacers? I am also trying to stuff as much rubber as possible under the rear without flares. I’ll be running T3 rear control arms and BC coilovers so I hope these might create a couple more mm of space. Any insight you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
  19. After pricing out new 5-lugs hubs and brake upgrades for my S30 project I decided to go a different route. I purchased a complete Nissan S14 rear subframe that included VLSD differential, axles, 5-lug hubs, calipers, rotors, e-brake cables as well as front rotors, calipers, spindles, 5-lug hubs. This was a very complete front and rear suspension minus coilovers. It set me back $799 shipped to my door. I removed my S30 front struts, spindles and steering knuckles and mocked up the front suspension with the S14 spindles (left spindle on the right side and vise versa) which bolted right to the existing S30 lower ball joint. I attached the upper part of the S14 spindle to a hybrid/custom coilover supplied by BC Racing ($630). The BC coilover is a 280Z upper strut with a lower S14 mount. This S30 outer tie rod is too long to accommodate the S14 steering knuckle so to temporarily allow me to roll the car around I cut 37mm out of each outer tie rod (they were junk anyway) and welded them back together. The car now has 5-lug hubs and 4 piston S14 brakes up front for what I consider to be a pretty good deal. I was leaning toward the T3 outer tie rods to solve my tie rod length issue but after reading another post on this forum I think I will manufacture tie rod adjuster sleeves that will accept 79-81 outer tie rods that will then mate to the S30 inner tie rods... 2 '79-'81 S130 outer tie rods, 2 M14x1.5mm Left Hand Thread inner tube adapter, 2 M14x1.5mm Right Hand Thread inner tube adapters, 4 appropriate jam nuts, 12" of 4130 Chrome Moly 1"x.063 tubing and a new inner tie rod for the left side of the vehicle can be had for about $140 combine this with a little TIG welding which I'll do myself means I can have great adjustability for around the same price as the T3 outer tie rods. And I wouldn't have to drill my steering knuckle which really wasn’t exciting me. I was gonna have to buy new outer tie rods even if I stuck with the S30 original stuff so the real excess cost of the custom tie rods is only about $80. As for the rears, I don't see many options to get a real upgrade without spending big bucks. I bit the bullet and invested in the T3 rear end conversion (I'm in their 4-6 week waiting period right now). I guess someone could also buy some off the shelf 5-lug stub axles ($330), some weld on coilovers ($630), and rear disc brake upgrade ($685) or $1675 and still have a R180 or R200 open differential. When I think of it in those terms I don't feel bad about spending the bucks with T3.
  20. Jethoncho

    280Z wheels and tires

    Hi All, I want to go with 17” wheels, what is the best tire wheel combination that will work for the S30 without flares? thanks!
  21. I think you may have misunderstood the intent of my response to your posting, I meant no disrespect I can appreciate your goal. I can also certainly appreciate your comments well except for the wise crack but hey your entitled to respond however you like, LOL.
  22. I can certainly appreciate where your going with this but I figured I would chime in. First, I certainly respect the need to build on a budget but is someone wanted a nearly all Nissan there are options. I purchased a complete Nissan S14 rear subframe that included VLSD differential, axles, 5-lug hubs, calipers, rotors, e-brake cables as well as front rotors, calipers, spindles, 5-lug hubs. This was a very complete front and rear suspension minus coilovers. It set me back $799 shipped to my door. I removed my S30 front struts, spindles and steering knuckles and mocked up the front suspension with the S14 spindles (left spindle on the right side and vise versa) which bolted right to the existing S30 lower ball joint. I attached the upper part of the S14 spindle to a hybrid/custom coilover supplied by BC Racing ($630). This S30 outer tie rod is too long to accommodate the S14 steering knuckle so to temporarily allow me to roll the car around I cut 37mm out of each outer tie rod (they were junk anyway) and welded them back together. The car now has 5-lug hobs and 4 piston S14 brakes up front for what I consider to be a pretty good deal. I was leaning toward the T3 outer tie rods to solve my tie rod length issue but after reading another post on this forum I think I will manufacture tie rod adjuster sleeves that will accept 79-81 outer tie rods that will then mate to the S30 inner tie rods... 2 '79-'81 S130 outer tie rods, 2 M14x1.5mm Left Hand Thread inner tube adapter, 2 M14x1.5mm Right Hand Thread inner tube adapters, 4 appropriate jam nuts, 12" of 4130 Chrome Moly 1"x.063 tubing and a new inner tie rod for the left side of the vehicle can be had for about $140 (such a deal) combine this with a little TIG welding which I'll do myself means I can have great adjustability for around as the same price as the T3 outer tie rods. And I wouldn't have to drill my steering knuckle which really doesn't excite me. I was gonna have to buy new outer tie rods even if I stuck with the S30 original stuff so the real excess cost of the custom tie rods is only about $80. As for the rears, I don't see many options to get a real upgrade without spending big bucks. I bit the bullet and invested in the T3 rear end conversion (I'm in their 4-6 week waiting period right now). I guess someone could also buy some off the shelf 5-lug stub axles ($330), some weld on coilovers ($630), and rear disc brake upgrade ($685) or $1675 and still have a R180 or R200 open differential. When I think of it in those terms I don't feel bad about spending the bucks with T3.
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