Sjoost

I found what i needed. Thx anyway! joost

Hello all, For my Datsun 280z, 1976, I am looking for the spring that is on the hinge of the door (left photo, of my left door). Looking at my right door (all fine there), I noticed that on my left door the "guider bolt" marked with the "X" has also snapped off. Is there anyone who can help me out with a the spring, the bolt marked with the "X", or a complete hinge? I'm located in The Netherlands. Hope someone can help me out with this small part. Cheers, Joost

Senor_Grizzly, Are you sure it's not your fuel pump, which is not working correct (or at all)? Did you download the FSM? Check the EE and EF chapters. cheers, Joost

Tito, If you disconnect feed wire to the solenoid of the starter motor (so it does not start if you turn ignition to starts), and remove the left side block connector (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b) from the fuel injection relais, and turn the ignition to "start" (keep it on start), and measure the voltage on the fuel pump terminals, what do you measure (not really easy to do, and extra hands help here)? & did you check all the circuits from the icu (see page 45 onward, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf)? Greetz Joost

Hallo all, For my 280z 1976 I am looking around for some lowering springs, or cosmo coilovers to drop the car by 3-5cm. I'm located in The Netherlands and the options I have are mostly from the US/Canada. With the shipping and import taxes, the prices exceed the purchase, which seems a waste, and drives up my budget. Possibly someone has these items somewhere in europe, may also be second hand. I know Vogtland has some lowering springs which they sell in europe, but their production will only deliver in may 2019. Im reluctant to install full coil overs, considering the welding involved, and new prices. Thanx for any help!! Joost

Tito, I had same issue some time ago. Did you check my quest? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129390-fuel-pump-and-relais/ 1. Looked like I had some thing with a stuck relais or beeper for the seat belt 2. The new ignition switch did not work correct. When pressing hard on the starter key my switch was working. I fixed that later. My relais were all fine in the end. Hope it helps

Since I am missing the hose between the AFM and engine, I did improvise a tube there, which I think is not fully air tight. Also, I am really doubting if the vacuum system is correctly working. What I have understood that this should work correctly in order to have the AFM switch open too. For sure the AFM switch to the pump is working. My car also has an Airco, so I get mixed up with all the vacuum hoses (of which some are missing). Anyone know which are essential for the engine to run correctly? Cheers, Joost

YEH!!! I got it solved! - I had short linked to ignition black blue and black yellow, as my "s" on ignition was not getting switched. From the measurements I noticed that via the ignition coil, 12volts is also active back from the black-blue in the "on" setting. Due to the short link, the pump/injection relais switched both relais at the same time, causing a mess in that control circuit. - I fixed the ignition switch first, and got that sort of solved (bad chinees replica) - Now still no power in the pump, with the strange things as described before - I started pulling plugs again, and then I also noticed the seat belt warning light was off. I disconnected the seat belt (which i had locked months ago to avoid the beep), and tried again. Suddenly I got the beep-beep sound again. - Tried it the ignition again , and it worked!!! I think the seat belt relais was stuck and causing some leak, and that together with the bad switching on the relais from the bad ignition switch, and my short link. Now I got my fuel pump working, and engine running (after an explosion in my improvised air intake hose, due to starter fluid). Engine starts nice, but drops after 5 seconds. Think my fuel level is too low. Man...! lots of fuel is needed to be put into that tank before the outflow nozzle is reached from totally empty. Thx for all the help, and I' m sure I will need some more soon:-) Joost

Still struggling here, just an update, maybe you guys see some points I'm missing. - Restrued the Floor Temp relays and all seemed fine in the end. Reinstalled it. - Been wiggeling with wires - Found that my short-wiring on the ignition of the "S" and "R" wires causes 12volts to run back trough the "S" system in the "on" position, causing both coils in the relais to be closed in "on" position. Fixed this, and found that when removing both terminals from the Fuel relais, Floor Temp light would also work. So no I put in one of the 2 connectors in the fuel pump relais. I installed only the right side (88d, 86a, 88y,85,86c & 88z). This resulted into the double click of the relais. First click in "on" and second click in "start". In both cases 12volts on my fuel pump!!!, and floor temp light "ready" burning at "start" and switching off in "on". So that seems all fine BUT - once i put in the connector in the left side (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b) all turns bad. Then i put ignition in "on' position, or start position, floor TEMP light does not light up, and I get no 12 volts on the fuel pump. - When I remove the (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b) side again, still things do not work. - However, after waiting for 5 minutes, all works again, with the left terminals installed. // considering that it seems something is "loading" or "unloading" I was wondering if there could be some coil or condensor which is malfunctioning. Also considering that when i connect the (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b), on the fuel pump terminals I get continuity with 0 resistance.... Anyone have any clue why connecting the left side of the above diagram give the issue here. Could it be something with the dropping resistor? Hope to hear from you...

NewZed, I already checked the switch, before i read your post. From BE-28 i checked all and especially "B" and "IG" since those are the 2 active on " start" and "on", which are needed for fuel pump relais. Both had power in both settings. Therefore, I checked the working of the "floor Temp" sensor" and found in EC-17 that that system is also interacting with the fuel pump relais and grounding all over. I removed the passengers seat, and removed the relais (btw what is the thing next to the floor temp relais, on the left and is it normal that 2 pins missing in the connector?) Did the relais check as per EC-21 and found that terminals , and found error as no continuity exists between 5 and 6, and this should be present. Other continuity was okay. Did not bother yet to connect 12volts to check other functions. What do you think, could this be the issue? From the schematic I concluded that this could be reason, but i' m not sure. For sure I need to find a new relais, or is it common to remove the floor temp system? Cheers, Joost

Hi NewZed, I have been measuring for few hours. I checked the resistance on the air regulator and got around 60ohm. Just to be sure, I connected the two terminals on the air regulator after that. Figured since Relais seems ok, if the relais also gets the feeds as above. Checked the signals from the ignition to 76 (being 86a in on relais), and 71, (being 86c on relais)., and 70 (relais in 88z). 76, and 70 were fine and giving battery voltage. But measurement on 71 was 0 volts on "on", actually jumping bit up upon switching ignition but not a real voltage signal. If 86c does not get power, the pump would never work. Tried a few time more, and suddenly I did get 12volts on 71. So i put relais in again, but still no 12volts on my pump terminals. Took out the relais again, and no 12volts on 71 again. Tried a few times more, and waited for some time while in on, and i heard another click..... and suddenly 12 volts... how..?? Seat belt light is on, and goes off after few seconds (have the seat belt in the lock). But then I found out that when "Floor Temp" light is on, I get 12 volts on 71, but when "Floor light" is off, i get nothing..... I really don't know why most of the time it does not turn on, and randomly, really like out of 20, it is on and i have 12 volts on 71 (86c), and i bet that when that is the case with the relais in, I would get 12volts on fuel pump terminals. I did not check the system around the floor temp, but figure i give you this update, as you might recognize something here straight away.. Hope to hear some new clues...... cheers Joost

(Well still working on this issue, Thisis were i stand: 1. I retested the fuel pump/fuel injection relais (I actually have 2 in my car, one mounted and one was just hanging there, so previous owner might have had some issue here too). I checked all the terminal points as instructed in EF-54 onward. 2. In addition to those instructions I also tested all the connections (85- 88y) on the relais including the functioning of the diodes. All perfect. 3. From "the fuel injection handbook" tested all the circuits on the Control Unit connector. There I had 2 failures only. 'The fuel pump relais circuit. and the "air regulator and fuel pump circuit". On both i was not getting continuity from pin 20 and 34 to ground (I did also connect the terminals of the air regulator to rule out that one in the circuit. 4. Air flap open and close, all worked, but no power to my fuel pump, no matter what setting my ignitions in. 5. I again looked into the continuity of the 2 terminal wires on the fuel pump (disconnected pump) and found that both were giving continuity with ground!!!. And with each other. 6. Removing one of the 2 connectors on the relais, did indeed change that to one ground and one not. Having the right side of the connectors in the relais (to the pump side), and other one out, I found that from one side 88c on the relais was giving continuity with positive terminal at pump, but the connector going onto the 88c was giving continuity with the negative! I'm bit lost, but it seems there is some ground leak , but no idea how to find it. In contradiction to what i said before, I am not getting any voltage on the pump terminals, no matter what setting the ignition key is in. Before I also had some strange issue with headlight not working and horn. Any help is welcome here, for some next steps to take )I did short wire "S" and "R" on the ignition connector, but that should not be an issue i think, looking at the schematics. Hope to hear!! Joost

Exactly NewZed, what i thought. For now getting the engine running and run for short time is fine, until i get a good hose. Indeed i will set the vane open, to keep the pump normally running in "on" mode. For now, i first need to get some pressure in the fuel line by getting the pump working on "start". I'll keep you posted. Thx so far.

Ok i will also give that a try. Btw, i am missing the hose between the airflow meter and the throttle chamber. Presume that that can not be the reason for my pump not running right?

Thx NewZed and jhm for feedback. Gives me some things to work on. I also found manual online on the complete injection system and that one also suggested to remove the start motor lead, so the engine does not crack. It also has many checks from the control unit. The 9volts could also be bit more, like more towards 10, but for sure I will recharge my battery first (I measure 12.5 there, so should be fine, but will try it anyway). I would expect pump to run slower at lower voltage, or am i mistaken there? I did not really notice difference in colour of the wires but i will also recheck and make sure I have the black connected as ground to the larger loop terminal of the fuel pump. I will also do a recheck on the relais as per EF54 - EF56 Any tricks to keep the starter in "start" position. I'm working on the car mostly alone.... Thx guys, I'll keep you posted. btw, is there any high resolution diagram of the wires and colors somewhere. I only have very bad versions of the 1976 model. joost

Hi all, In my attempt to get my 280z (1976model) running I ended up at the fuel pump. There I found it was leaking from the terminals. I decided to replace it with a Bosch 0580464070. Figured that should work. Made some modifications and changed the terminals (possibly i mix them when i cut them off to put new terminals on). I figured I measure the one making ground. Thought that other would be Positive. Connected them, and pump did not work when cranking (start position of ignition ). Dit a continuity measurement on the 2 terminals and to my surprise my multi meter made a sound (this is not in start position btw). Suddenly it seemed that both were making continuity with ground? Is this normal? I measured the voltage when cracking (start position) and that gave around 9volts. Took out the pump and connected to the battery directly, and it would run. So pump works. Measured the relais (below the steering-wheel) as per the FSM, and it worked. I'm lost, what can this be, why is the pump not working? Anyone have a clue? Greetings, joost

Well guys, I finally solved the issue - Since I got my car without any keys and ignition lock and switch, I had ordered a replica version on e-bay. Once it arrived I looked at the connector and the switch (5 pins,1 missing) and figured that it was all correct. I also checked the details in BE-26, with the B,S,A,IG pins, and the one not named in BE-26, marked as "R". Measured the signals and all seems correct. - After having run through the fuses, relais, and wires, i went back to the switch again. After studying the schematic below, I figured I better measure the signals with the connector in the switch. There I found out there was no voltage signal on the "S" with ignition on START. Checked the schematic below again, and found out that when I would swap out 2 wires in the connector, all would be fine. So thats what I did, I swapped the White Red wire, with a Black Blue one, and starter cranked up right away. Issue solved! So for people getting replica ignition switch watch out for this mix up between R and S. - btw, anyone know what the Black/Blue wire is for? as I have now switched that one in the ignition switch connector. Thanks for the help jhm! cheers, joost

Well things are getting worse (at least for me, as I wonder which way to go now). - I had the car off battery, installed back the starter switch after checking it. Put the battery back on. The head lights actually suddenly worked!!! They never did before. - I put the starter which into start, and the starter engine actually cracked. I did it again, and it cranked again. - Somewhere I put off the headlights. - I started again with the starter switch, and it crancked - I figured i press gas, and put the starter switch back on, .... and nothing, just a click - Put the headlight on, nothing......... Anyone have any clue to what could be the issue here? -After this, i checked the Mass connections and cleaned them near the battery (2 of them). It didn't put my headlight back on. I have a feeling I have a ground issue, causing also my starter not to crack, and also issue on my headlights. I noticed my battery also lost some power over night, as I had it connected. I did reload it back to 12.6volts. Does anyone have any clue what is going on here, and what are the best steps I can take to solve this issue? - Rear lights work btw - dashboard lights work thx in advance guys!! joost

Jhm, thx for the explanation. It had me confused before. The fact that my starter does crank when I apply 12volts directly to the starter where the signal from the ignition switch goes, means that that the ignition solenoid is functioning, right? Tomorrow I gonna get that thing to work, with all this advise. cheers,

Jhm, Thx for your support. The issue I am facing, is this solenoid the same thing as the ignition relais? On the relais board in the passengers leg space (I can hardly access that thing there)? If so, from the manual I was seeing that the same signal passes the fusible wires which are in the engine compartment. My plan was to measure there, in the starter position and see if I get 12 volts there. Somehow I get the feeling the issue is between the fusible wire and the connection to the starter. I will keep you posted on my venture! Joost

just tested the switch, and in "START" position, "B" , "S" and "IG" are all connected as per the schematic and they are all closed from "A". I think this rules out any issue with the ignition switch, right? 7. I checked all fusible links (all 4 right side in engine bay) and they are all connected. I think I will check if the voltage to that point (past the fusible links) when I engage the starter switch. Joost

Hi Jhm, thanx for your fast response. Yes I do have the FSM for the car, and checked out the system. In the BE page 26 i did notice the version I have for the 1976 model does not have the "A" compared to the one you added (I have a manual gearbox, is that related?). Not sure if that makes any sense. My new ignition switch also does not have the "A" and seems to have the correct pins for my 1976 model. The back side of the switch has the letters IG, S, B and R on it and the connector also has one empty spot. So I do feel confident that that part, switch and connector is ok. I do need to do to testing on it, based on the schematic. I also applied the 12volts on the hot post directly, and the starter des crank, so starter is working. It's somewhere between the switch and the starter hotspot. I will do the testing you proposed. What about the Ignition solenoid. What is that all about? Is that solenoid the same as the ignition relais? I do hear the click sound when i start. Lets see, in te mean time, any other advise is always welcome. Joost

Hi, I am trying to start up my Datsun 280z model 1976 (1975 built), and am having some issue (I think car was last driven in 2013). Items checked: 1. Battery, full, 12.6volts 2. Positive (and negative) wire to starter is not loosing volts 3. Starter positive side to engine body gives 12.6 volts (my conclusion, grounding is fine) 4. When i engage the ignition switch, I clearly hear a click in the passengers leg area (repeated trying did not make it start) 5. I have checked fuses in the fuse box (passenger leg area), and all seem fine 6. I checked the starter engage wire, at the starter, and when the ignition is engaged, I do not get a 12volt reading there. Conclusion, it must be somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter on the engaging wire. What is the most probable issue here, and how do you recommend I follow a step by step analyses to find the problem. You guys are great, any help is welcome!!!! Cheers, Joost

Wow 73Ed, I like how those fit & look! I have some 14"mags which I plan to paint black (non gloss) and fit them with 215/65/R14, (or 215/60/r14) which I hope will give me a similar effect.

Well, In my search it seems that Eibach does not know anything about any suitable springs. They also do not see this product as part of their line in the USA (I really wonder how those others are then Eibach's). Also many tuner could not recommend any suitable set. They advised me to look in the USA :-). However, I got a reaction directly from Vogtland. They can supply me some springs. Not part of their main product line, but it does give me a good option and lowers about 3,5 cm. Thx for all your advise!! Cheers, Joost