ETI2K
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Posts posted by ETI2K
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On 9/16/2021 at 3:25 AM, primaz said:
I would recommend to upgrade with coil over setup. With good quality coil over's you would be able to go even wider than 245 since you have mild flares as I have coil overs on two of my stock body 240z cars with no flares, no rubbing and am running 245 wide tires on all four corners. If I had added flares to give 2-3" more space I would be able to over 255's and run 265 to 285's.
You can see one of my 240z's with no flares running 245's on all four corners so if you have flares I would be wanting to go wider. Why cut the car and add flares if you are running the same size tires you can run without flares?
Do you know the offset on your wheels? Has your car been lowered? Are you running negative camber on rear?
Great looking car, too!
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Joe,
I see you have the same fender covers I don't have either. 🤣
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I agree with @AydinZ71, and if I may add, if you decide to apply the small fillet bead, it'd have to a 100% effective seal. If there is any void that would allow moisture into the space behind the windshield, it might exacerbate the problem by ensuring it stays wet. Don't forget too that air carries water vapor and when it cools, that vapor will condense. Airborne water vapor movement is tough to stop, so treat it like it will always be wet.
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Holy crap, do I feel your pain. I moved from my self-built huge shop with A/C and hydronic heat in the floor 😁 to NO shop. Currently using the garage that has a LOT of machines in storage, so no room to move about. It may not be as tight as yours, but it's darn close.
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An ambitious undertaking to be sure! Lots to look forward to - the fun and the PITA. Good thing you have a manual!
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The paint work looks really nice. Isn't it confounding how long it takes to make measurable progress?
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Yes! Very helpful. Thank you.
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Lots to read. Thanks for the info.
I haven't finished reading it, so please forgive for asking now, but are there any good pics of the modification? The thread I started reading is so old that the images have been deleted.
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On 5/13/2021 at 5:50 PM, Zetsaz said:
it already has the common head cooling mod for cylinders 5 and 6.
What is that modification?
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@NewZed Very good reference material. I always prefer to rely on experts, and Parker certainly qualifies as such.
I have set up inventory systems using McMaster's naming conventions and they use "square (as well as others) o-ring". I'll be sure to alert them tomorrow!😁
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Thanks @grannyknot and @AydinZ71. Sorry I missed your replies. Definitely looking into it.
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Jumping in here, where does one find a good door skin? I need each side.
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I was surprised and happy for you that your story ended well. When I started to read your post, I thought you would say an ear broke off. 😳
Gentle pressure, relentlessly applied.
Works for all sorts of things!
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If you are able to start the engine everytime and after it's running it then shuts down, it doesn't seem to indicate a problem with the ignition switch. Though recalcitrant, it works.
If the fuel supply is cutting out after the switch returns from START to ON, then I'm with @sjoost. The problem sounds like it's related to a condition needing to be satisfied after start - the condition being a matter of safety.
If you an ammeter, look at the current to the pump compared to time. When is it on, when is it off. If it's repeatable, then it is under control, and suggests something is telling the ECU to shut it down.
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Ahh, electrical problems. Aren't they just the best?!
😁🤔
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Have you tried manually operating the AFM flap, while the engine is idling? If you are able to determine if the mixture changes appropriately, it would suggest the AFM and ECU are at least functioning on that front.
Might also eliminate some variables.
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That's great that it worked!
Have any idea how much torque you had to apply to the puller?
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I would:
Clamp distributor body in a padded vice with shaft horizontal.
Use c-clamp, or padded vice grips, lock onto the removable base. Orient the clamp so you can tie a weight to it that will hang down and apply a constant torque.
Apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to the base, but no warmer than you can touch. Don't even think about using a torch 😬.
Juice both ends of the base with your favorite penetrating oil and let cool.
Repeat until the base twists.
Since it's aluminum parts corroded together, it'll take a while, but it should work.
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Good suggestion @jpndave. DWV is cheap, thin-walled, and cheap! 😁
Imagine a hard-piped air distribution system behind the dash - quiet, lots of air, and didn't cost $300. Actually, it probably cost about $30 in parts and about $12,990 in labor, but man, it'd be the shite.
C'mon, you're not really busy are you?
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That's the problem- finding a hose that is less restrictive (and quieter bc of reduced losses). PVC pipe works great 😁😉
Festool uses hoses that are much smoother inside but don't have the small bend radius needed. Perhaps less flexible, smoother hose and rigid elbows for tight turns? Sorry, no solutions, really.
As was suggested above, reduced path length by altering the goesintos/goesoutofs is more easily achieved.
Oh yeah, I was joking about PVC, but something rigid can be shaped with heat. Sort of like shaping straight brake line to replace existing (without heat of course).
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I haven't been following this thread, but I just saw the pic of the routed flex hose. That type of hose is TERRIBLE for airflow. The corrugations absolutely kill flow. Also, the left side s-curve contributes significantly to the loss of flow. It has to do with large directional changes over a short hose length.
It's absolutely worth looking for a hose/pipe with shorter length, smother wall, and a straighter path.
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Congratulations on getting back in the game. That's a good looking car compared to a lot of them. You will have lots of fun.
My first was a 73 CA car. No rust, but absolutely beat to hell by the OO (original owner). There wasn't a 6" square of metal anywhere that wasn't dented, scratched, or damaged in some way. I bought it from a senior medical student at Howard University in DC. I always wondered how he treated his patients after seeing what he did to a car he owned and presumably loved.
Keep us updated with plenty of pics.
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Those are the side seals for the last crank bearing cap.
Usually, it is just the round seal that leaks, so you can solve your leak easily. If the side seals leak, you'll have to remove the cap and replace them as well.
In my best Clint Eastwood...So, do you feel lucky punk? 🤔
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@Goose280Z '78 - Congratulations. Your car looks to be in great shape. Here's to no surprises 🍻
JR19 Wheel Size Help
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Great detailed info.
I agree that if you cut and flare, it should be for more rubber on the ground. I like the look of flares and wider tires as well, but not the bolt-ons.
I'd do it during my current build, but I have two new factory fenders and I just can't bring myself to cut them up.
Thanks for the update.