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Everything posted by ETI2K
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Great detailed info. I agree that if you cut and flare, it should be for more rubber on the ground. I like the look of flares and wider tires as well, but not the bolt-ons. I'd do it during my current build, but I have two new factory fenders and I just can't bring myself to cut them up. Thanks for the update.
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Do you know the offset on your wheels? Has your car been lowered? Are you running negative camber on rear? Great looking car, too!
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I agree with @AydinZ71, and if I may add, if you decide to apply the small fillet bead, it'd have to a 100% effective seal. If there is any void that would allow moisture into the space behind the windshield, it might exacerbate the problem by ensuring it stays wet. Don't forget too that air carries water vapor and when it cools, that vapor will condense. Airborne water vapor movement is tough to stop, so treat it like it will always be wet.
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Metal Magoo's 280Z Resurrection
ETI2K replied to MetalMagoo's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
An ambitious undertaking to be sure! Lots to look forward to - the fun and the PITA. Good thing you have a manual! -
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
ETI2K replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Yes! Very helpful. Thank you. -
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
ETI2K replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Lots to read. Thanks for the info. I haven't finished reading it, so please forgive for asking now, but are there any good pics of the modification? The thread I started reading is so old that the images have been deleted. -
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
ETI2K replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
What is that modification? -
Unique Factory Oil Cooler O-ring, what is the part number?
ETI2K replied to himself's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
@NewZed Very good reference material. I always prefer to rely on experts, and Parker certainly qualifies as such. I have set up inventory systems using McMaster's naming conventions and they use "square (as well as others) o-ring". I'll be sure to alert them tomorrow!😁 -
Metal Magoo's 280Z Resurrection
ETI2K replied to MetalMagoo's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Thanks @grannyknot and @AydinZ71. Sorry I missed your replies. Definitely looking into it. -
Metal Magoo's 280Z Resurrection
ETI2K replied to MetalMagoo's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Jumping in here, where does one find a good door skin? I need each side. -
[72 240z] Distributor Spacer STUCK on Distributor
ETI2K replied to Hindenzerg1266's topic in Ignition and Electrical
I was surprised and happy for you that your story ended well. When I started to read your post, I thought you would say an ear broke off. 😳 Gentle pressure, relentlessly applied. Works for all sorts of things! -
280z 1976 stalls after startup. Throttle body switch?
ETI2K replied to Sjoost's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
If you are able to start the engine everytime and after it's running it then shuts down, it doesn't seem to indicate a problem with the ignition switch. Though recalcitrant, it works. If the fuel supply is cutting out after the switch returns from START to ON, then I'm with @sjoost. The problem sounds like it's related to a condition needing to be satisfied after start - the condition being a matter of safety. If you an ammeter, look at the current to the pump compared to time. When is it on, when is it off. If it's repeatable, then it is under control, and suggests something is telling the ECU to shut it down. -
280z 1976 stalls after startup. Throttle body switch?
ETI2K replied to Sjoost's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Ahh, electrical problems. Aren't they just the best?! 😁🤔 -
280z 1976 stalls after startup. Throttle body switch?
ETI2K replied to Sjoost's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Have you tried manually operating the AFM flap, while the engine is idling? If you are able to determine if the mixture changes appropriately, it would suggest the AFM and ECU are at least functioning on that front. Might also eliminate some variables. -
[72 240z] Distributor Spacer STUCK on Distributor
ETI2K replied to Hindenzerg1266's topic in Ignition and Electrical
That's great that it worked! Have any idea how much torque you had to apply to the puller? -
[72 240z] Distributor Spacer STUCK on Distributor
ETI2K replied to Hindenzerg1266's topic in Ignition and Electrical
I would: Clamp distributor body in a padded vice with shaft horizontal. Use c-clamp, or padded vice grips, lock onto the removable base. Orient the clamp so you can tie a weight to it that will hang down and apply a constant torque. Apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to the base, but no warmer than you can touch. Don't even think about using a torch 😬. Juice both ends of the base with your favorite penetrating oil and let cool. Repeat until the base twists. Since it's aluminum parts corroded together, it'll take a while, but it should work. -
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
ETI2K replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Good suggestion @jpndave. DWV is cheap, thin-walled, and cheap! 😁 Imagine a hard-piped air distribution system behind the dash - quiet, lots of air, and didn't cost $300. Actually, it probably cost about $30 in parts and about $12,990 in labor, but man, it'd be the shite. C'mon, you're not really busy are you? -
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
ETI2K replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
That's the problem- finding a hose that is less restrictive (and quieter bc of reduced losses). PVC pipe works great 😁😉 Festool uses hoses that are much smoother inside but don't have the small bend radius needed. Perhaps less flexible, smoother hose and rigid elbows for tight turns? Sorry, no solutions, really. As was suggested above, reduced path length by altering the goesintos/goesoutofs is more easily achieved. Oh yeah, I was joking about PVC, but something rigid can be shaped with heat. Sort of like shaping straight brake line to replace existing (without heat of course). -
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
ETI2K replied to Zetsaz's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I haven't been following this thread, but I just saw the pic of the routed flex hose. That type of hose is TERRIBLE for airflow. The corrugations absolutely kill flow. Also, the left side s-curve contributes significantly to the loss of flow. It has to do with large directional changes over a short hose length. It's absolutely worth looking for a hose/pipe with shorter length, smother wall, and a straighter path. -
Congratulations on getting back in the game. That's a good looking car compared to a lot of them. You will have lots of fun. My first was a 73 CA car. No rust, but absolutely beat to hell by the OO (original owner). There wasn't a 6" square of metal anywhere that wasn't dented, scratched, or damaged in some way. I bought it from a senior medical student at Howard University in DC. I always wondered how he treated his patients after seeing what he did to a car he owned and presumably loved. Keep us updated with plenty of pics.
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mystery rear main seals included with new round seal
ETI2K replied to Mayolives's topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Those are the side seals for the last crank bearing cap. Usually, it is just the round seal that leaks, so you can solve your leak easily. If the side seals leak, you'll have to remove the cap and replace them as well. In my best Clint Eastwood...So, do you feel lucky punk? 🤔 -
Tachometer illumination issue [Solved]
ETI2K replied to Oblithian's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
@Goose280Z '78 - Congratulations. Your car looks to be in great shape. Here's to no surprises 🍻