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rand

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About rand

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    r-c-v.com

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    Los Angeles

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  1. @ZHoob2004 Thanks, I think you're right. The Monroe book hasn't told me to find an accurate TDC with a degree wheel yet. I've only zero'd it out with a dial indicator before the head went on. I'm ordering a degree wheel and piston stop online now - I'll get it to TDC and report back.
  2. I'm following the instructions in Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" and I'm at the step where I need to install the oil pump and distributor drive shaft. In the book, he has a picture of the angle of the installed shaft relative to the distributor mounting face. I've tried pulling and reinserting the shaft for about 30 minutes (slightly rotating it this way and that each time) and can't figure out a way to get the angle any closer to what's pictured. I can either get it installed way more clockwise, or way more counterclockwise. How important is this exact angle? Tom's instructions: My best effort so far:
  3. For anyone who ends up with the same problem, here's an update: I just talked to my machinist and he said that this is a common issue. Apparently bearing manufacturers sometimes oversize the thrust surfaces with the expectation that you will be resurfacing and removing material from your crank during the rebuild. This is usually indicated in the catalog, but apparently was not for my bearings. You can get them down to size by laying a piece of ~400 grit sandpaper on a piece of glass, spraying some WD-40 on and sanding down the front surface until you get the clearance you need.
  4. I just read ahead in my Tom Monroe book, and he says: Looks like I'm just one of the rare unlucky ones. Has anyone out there successfully sanded down the thrust surfaces on their bearings? Any advice?
  5. I'm re-assembling the L24 out of my Series 1 240Z and just tried dropping the crankshaft in. It dropped in with a tiny bit more encouragement than I expected, but that center bearing was so tight that I couldn't turn the crank once it was in. I pulled the crank back out to investigate, and that bearing came with it! It was on so tight that I had to lightly hammer it off with the butt of my mallet to get it back off. I assumed that the bearing would have just slipped onto the journal rather than needing to be forced like that. My crankshaft was ground down by 0.25mm, but I can't imagine why that would make the thrust surfaces tighter. I measured the center bearing width and it came out to 32.12mm, but I have no idea if that's nominal or not. I couldn't get a good read on the crank width at the center journal with my calipers. This is my first time building an engine, so any advice is appreciated. Is this kind of interference fit expected here, or should I send my crank back to the machine shop, or just order new bearings? Thanks! See pictures below. The box that my bearings came in. These were provided by my machine shop. Caliper reading on the width of bearing. Notice that the back of the bearing is now scuffed up. When I tried turning the crank one way, the bearing tab prevented it from rotating. When I tried to turn it the other way, the bearing just rotated with the crank and scuffed a little material off its back as it went.
  6. I have a F4W71A transmission from my 71 240Z that is sitting on the floor of my garage while I rebuild the engine. The shifter has that loose "monkey motion" which I'd like to try to tighten up while it's out of the car. I'm thinking that if I can take off the shift lever, I can probably just squeeze it in a vice to take up the play between the prongs. If that doesn't work, I could try heating it and banging it on an anvil. Has anyone out there done this successfully? Removing the C-clip and pin from the bottom of the lever is easy, but how do I get the pin out of the upper pivot (see pic below)? It looks like a flathead screw, but trying to turn it with a screwdriver got me nowhere. Video of loose shifter:
  7. Does anyone have any shops they recommend in the Los Angeles area? I'm looking to have someone rebuild the transmission from my 240.
  8. I've pulled pretty much everything off of the block now and am getting ready to bring it to a machine shop to get checked out and cleaned up. I was looking at my timing cover, and the area underneath the water pump is pretty badly pitted and scarred looking. Am I going to need a new timing cover, or is it fine to just run the engine with this one? I don't mind replacing the water pump, but timing covers are pretty hard to find. I saw a few on eBay, but they were around $250 😐
  9. Just wanted to follow up on my results on pulling the engine with the head off. I ended screwing some bolts in into the head-bolt holes with some chain and washers on them. It worked great and was pretty easy to do. Pictures attached.
  10. Ok, I'm all in. I wanted to rebuild this engine anyway, so I may as well do it now. This is a project for me to learn and have fun with, and it's not like I need it to take me to work on Monday. Speaking of learning, all of the guides I've seen to pulling the engine have you attach the engine hoist to the cylinder head. Seeing as I've already removed the head, is there a recommended place on the block to attach to? I'd rather not put my newly rebuild head onto the scummy block just to pull it off again. Also, any thoughts on Tom Monroe's method of pulling the engine without the transmission? I've heard that one is pretty controversial.
  11. Thanks @Lazeum - that's the way I'm leaning. My impatient side really wants drive this car asap, but I think I'll feel better if I clean everything up first. As long as I have this engine out I may as well strip and repaint the engine bay. As long as I'm doing that I may as well strip and repaint the rest of the body. As long as I'm doing that, I should probably clean up and repaint the frame. As long as I'm doing that.... oh no, here we go!
  12. I just pulled the head off of my new (to me) L24 that hasn't run in ~10 years to get it rebuilt and resurfaced yesterday, and my engine looks like it's in worse shape than I was hoping. When I pulled the head off, there was coolant puddled in some of the cylinders. I was hoping to just get the head work done, pop it back on and be able to drive the car around for a few months. After cleaning up the deck surface a little bit, I've found that it's pretty scratched up and has a few nicks and dings around the top of the cylinder. I was planning on pulling the block apart at some point so I can get it hot tanked, but now I'm worried that I need to get the deck resurfaced before I can run the engine. Am I being too conservative here, or do I really need to pull this thing apart and get it re-machined? Coolant in cylinders right after pulling head off: Nicks and scratches on deck near cylinder: More scratches: State of cylinder before minor clean up:
  13. Aha, that makes perfect sense. Thanks David and Miles! A friend printed out a FSM (the one here) for me as a gift and that hot air intake diagram isn't in it. Miles - which FSM did you pull that image from? It looks like my flexible tube deteriorated long ago. I'll reinstall the intake and hunt around for a replacement tube at some point.
  14. I'm currently pulling the manifolds off of my 1971 240Z, and I can't figure out what this pipe is that's bolted onto my exhaust manifold. It looks totally vestigial because there is no opening for it on the manifold side, and the other side just dangles into the engine bay. What is this thing, and can I leave it off when I put everything back together?
  15. Yeah, I believe it. I'm a little scared to try welding for the first time a few mm from that machined surface though. Maybe I'm being too timid and should just give it a try, but I'm worried about splattering metal and having to pay to get the pump mount resurfaced. Great tip about agreeing on a price with a machine shop beforehand, any idea what a decent rate for something like this would be?
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