RUZN

Uh I can look tongiht lol, since I'm doing the 5speed swap over the next couple days. I got my 280zx 5 speed that im removing parts from for the Automatic 280zxt. so I'll look and post it for ya but I think I read somewhere its different length for sure.

So ... its darkout now.... lol... thinking I can use the stock Intake tube now that AFM is gone and New MAF in its place.. I'll add a crapload of walkthrough pics for any future peoples projects if they are behind as I am to this upgrade lol. including the porting specs (which I did to the size of the gasket) Stuffed a rag in each intake port (on head) way down deep and tight so no flakes went in then vacuumed it all out afterwards then as rag comes out it sweeps anymore bits out I also added some oil to the holes so flakes would get stuck to it and not fall in so it could be easily removed when rag was pulled out. Manifold was easy, Hand ported (bit cost $40 nice wide cutter blades it never bound once and took literally 30 mins to to all ports. the Intake 65mm bore took about an hour. Wastegate another 30mins. Even experimented with the turbo output end since its so small a hole, so I ported that out a couple mill so the entire chamber was nice and smooth and even. Wiring of course was all male to female ends then solder'd for extra strength then taped so should last awhile. Lotsa extra inches of legth incase I have to fix wiring. gotta tape off each wire next to Show whats changed. tonight should be pretty much cleaning up wiring taping it all up tight rechecking replaced fuel lines. Dreading the tanny swap on ground lol.. trying to track down some truck Jack stands for height but since entire drivers side is bare every bolt is accessible passenger side not so good lol have to remove battery make some room. Gotta clean off oil and dirt anyway and paint that side. but 5speed is the way to go! cyas all later maybe 4 am LOL

300ZX Remove compressor and compressor bracket. Disconnect exhaust front tube and center cable. Remove brake master cylinder heat insulator. Disconnect air duct and hoses. Remove exhaust manifold connecting tube and heat shield plate. Disconnect oil lines from turbocharger, then remove turbocharger and exhaust manifold as an assembly. Remove attaching nuts and separate turbocharger from exhaust manifold Yeah AllData makes it seem so easy lol.. OK I didnt mention brake master cylinder but hey that would be more room to. Honestly I would see what kinda room you get from removing shock tower. if you really wanna make it easy Cut through the thing sheet metal in the wheel well and just reweld a piece on hehe then its right there in the open

OK so you want the turbo out.. I found its kinda as hard as a Eagle Talon TSI!! hehe Where the front of the engine is literally right against firewall.. Anyhow try this way.. First jack the drivers side front up... Take off your wheel. If your inclined enough Remove the shock (undue bolts at top. then remove brake caliper assembly. Remove axel nut and remove possibly the swaybar link and swaybar bolts. seems like alot I know but you'll see!!.. then when your underneith remove the drivers side engine mount bolts. Place $30 jack under oilpain area or something sturdy but put a 2x6 or 2x4 un jack point so it dosent damage pan then. you should be able to free up enough room to move engine up a few inches and down. next...... disconnect air intake hosing, and anythig in your hand and arms way that will interfear with you getting some good grip on the bolts. Now from what i found they have those stupid tabs on the bolts to the manifold so you need to jam your arm in there suck up the pain and bend the tabs down that hold the bolts from loosening off so you can actually get a socket on there. same goes for the ones by firewall in center that hold on the pipe that comes from the passenger side. this is all off the top of my head but I did this at a Wrecker so If I can do it in -12oC you can do it to. pretty much when you remove tire and brake and strut you free up tons of room to reall y get in there form different angles. Also buy yourself some beer chill out and take it slow nothings worse than frusteration it will totally slow you down. Also get a can of RELEASE all!!! and soak everything possible (bolts and nuts) cause ♥♥♥♥ will break if you dont. try that cause liek I said when you remove that drivers side crap you got lots of leg and foot room as well as some hand and wrist room. Just start a slow dissasemble of crap in your way. Its tight as hell but it will be easy if you free up the room. I'll look up some crap on ALLDATA and see what it says one sec.....

I have a Z32TT Trans Manual from a 1993 kicking around. I hear its failry easy to make work with a Spacer you buy buy. Should be easy to track down

Has anyone Dyno'd actual gains from this process yet? I mean obviously there must be some due to better Fuel/Air Mapping. I mean mine will be moreso due to the fact I ported my manifold and exhaust and tweaked the turbo a bit ect ect but has anyone just done the TB swap to 60mm, ECU and Maf. What were your gains?

So I went into AllData foundthe wiring diagrams for 280zxt and 300zxt.. it appears that my YELLOW/BLUE wire is apparently YELLOW/LIME and no im not colour blind lol very strange.. so I guess in my cae my RED/with red paint spot is going to go to YELLOW/BLUE (lime) yay!!! ALLDATA!

OK so I went to wrecker got the extra pins I needed for the ECU Swap on my 280zxt. Now Im trying to hook up MAF wires heres my Layout. A: White/Green B: White (But has a Black overcoat with silver wire inside? sheilding?) C: Black/ Large red paint spot D: Black/ Small red paint spot E: Yellow/ Red F: Red/ small red paint spot Now this MAF harness is from a Maxima VG30 but I marked colours and ABCDEF positions. Now my 280zxt Harness had these colour Wires. Yellow/Blue (AFM 34) (ECU 33) Black (AFM 33) Yellow Red (AFM 32) Yellow Black (AFM 25) (ECU 30) Now in AFSHIN's Post: A: W/G (VG30 Maxima) goes to Yellow/Black 280zxt harness B: W/ with black insulator goes to Yellow/Red from 280zxt harness C: B/With large red paint spot goes to Body Ground D: B/with small red paint spot goes to Black wire from Z Harness E: Yellow/Red goes to VCM black with white stripe under old AFM F: Red/With small red paint spot goes to ECU's 33 yellow/Lime wire Now my problem is my old harness wire YELLOW/BLUE is not mentioned, so what colour on my harness goes to Yellow Blue (which ends up being pin 33 on ECU so confused lol

crap!! For some reason I thought I got a harness from a 300zxt ECU but cant find it anywhere and need the pins to swap the old 280zxt ECU tot he 300zxt.. *Sigh* back to the wrecker I go.. ughhhhhh lol

lol Ty for title.. I'll be posting my 81 ZX for Parting or whole car to. But the floor pans are dying of rust and the frame by the floor pans. I cut all of it out so just needs that Pan kit ect ect. Engine runs great still went its stock 130mph. Im just taking the tranny 5speed for my Automatic Turbo swap. but if anyone needs some crap from it let me know. Ecu harnesses blah blah blah let me know hehe

Ah yeah the upper coolant line form the thermostat right.. Yeaaa good Idea.. Plus the TB I have has a top through line so I can snake it over that and then down I suppose. As for the PS pump ty for idea. Ill try that. I have a 280zx 1981 with recirculating ball or whatever (manual armstrong steering) but I hear it might hit the turbo so thus asking around for ideas. TY for input though! will deffinately get rid of the PS and route those cooler lines

So I'm about 5 years behind on this mod. But I just got the car a few months ago so... hehe So Far: Installing the 300zxt ECU (1987) today using male to femal connectors and solder to make sure everythign stays together =-) Ported out my manifold to 65mm and installed the Maxima 65mm TB Ported manifold to Head ports 32.5mm and matched to head 32.5mm Took a 300zxt Turbo and cleaned it up mounted on Exhaust manifold and used the 280zxt Wastegate & adapted it tot he 300zxt compressor housing so the 280zxt downpipe works with my 3"Exhaust piping. Changed all the old 280zxt Injector pigtails to 300zxt ones because they were newer and not cracking. Bought a 10-140psi Fuel pressure regulator off Ebay that I will mount on stock rail. Changed all fuel rubber lines to new. Replaced all rubber vacuum hosing. Still have some questions of were I should tap inot regarding Cooler lines for turbo as the 300zxt turbo has Coolant lines. Ideas anyone? *I was thinking T off the line going to theHeater core and wrap around back of the engine to the turbo then L back around and back to that line again . Cant find any decent Injector prices so might have to save up and remain Low on Boost. Ordered a Big FMIC intercooler 24"W x 12"H x 4"T (going to have to make up some piping for that int he next few days. Going to adjust Valve lash sometimes today or tomorrow, Diconnected PS pump for now as its leaking. Question? can you run that rack without pump or should I replace pump soon and just keep filling it. I think bearing going on it from the sounds of things. Iridium Plugs NGK Wires Magnaflow 3" exhaust Painted everything lol well almost Valve cover : Silver with Red turbo Writing Intake manifold: Silver PopOff Valve (modified to accept 12psi): Dark Blue Exhaust manifold: High temp Black CLeaned oil off block and the original blue paint appeared wow!! Turbo: Silver like the intake mani. Thinking Ill Remove bumper.. As of now I cut out the middle section to place intercooler in there but trying to track down some type of body kit that will briten up that front end.. Dont liek the 82 style front bumpers. any suggestions? let me know. also Anyone know of specific wheel flares that work with the 280zxt. Cause I'm getting a tad of wheel well rus so I was going to cut it out and flare them a bit.

OK the AFM I got was off a 87 Maxima with a VG30. Issue is. The harness that came on the car has 5 Pins with a Slot for 6. Now the AFM only has 4 pins? So why did the harness come with 5 pins and the AFM with only 4.. None broken =-) I opened the AFM up and see 4 pins going through to the board all with some tpe of resistor before board and a 5th hole but nothing to board. Now dose this afm have some type of auto clean cycle? or something that it dosent need the 5th and 6th pins? also it was obviously not a Turbo motor. But my ECU is a 1987 Turbo ECU and I have everything else including the chopper wheel so will this swap work with this 4pin NISSAN AFM? THE AFM pins are located on BCDE so A and F are missing. OK went back to wrecker found a oldschool 1986 Maxima with a VG30 and vwala!! 6 Pin MAF with 6 Pin Connector!! yay!! Freebie!!

Yes Service manual. And looks like some grounds arent connected. Hosing dosent look right. hmmmm you didnt leave anythign in the intake right hehe just asking .. it happens. ummm Wires all right order? also Try adjusting the TPS or AFM check plugs what do they look like.. soiled? black? SO many things man... and that tube on bottom of manifold is open if I heared you correct if you have open airflow past the TB and the AFM then its gonna totally read the wrong airflow cause it will be sucking in air from any open holes and bringing to much air in thinking its running fine lol.. ooh wait I looked again I thinkg thats the Block tube.. not sure try to keep pics on same angle.. my neck hurts lol.. also is that hose coming from the fuel pressure regulator hooked up? looks to be just hanging down to no where...

OK. First off hello all. I have loved Z's since I was in grade 6, and while walking to school I watched a guy prolly about my age now (29) rebuilding a 260Z in his front lot for over 2 years till i went to highschool. when he finished I was walking by I noticed he was cleaning it and I said.. "what kind of car is that".. He replied with a smile... a 260Z.. and offered me a ride to school.... yep hooked... Long story short, I found my first Z a 1981 280zx N/A which I lightly tuned up but it is dying of underbody rust. SO after buying several more Nissans from 200sx's to 240sx's I happened upon yet another 280.. This time the great L28ET. its a 1982 T-Tops and im am the 3rd owner. So everything is still in tact even the Injector fan cooler thingy =-) But as I have been into modding for years its all got to go!!!.. lol.. SO Its an Auto first off (ahhh!!!) but I still own my 1981 280zx N/A with a 5 speed manual so Im gonna do the swap before I hit my 1st and 2nd years of Automotive Mechanics.... Also since im on EI and waiting for school I have 1 month to make some magic happen.. Now.. List of parts I have obtained from the scrap. According to "Afshin" I needed.. Dizzy (I got a 1987 Maxima) Ecu (1987 Turbo 300zx freshly crashed) Turbo( 1987 300zx Freshly crashed) MAF (1987 300zx) Basically everything on the shopping list needed for the Z31 ECU swap into a s130T Now. I have customed a 3" exhaust myself witht the pipe bender at work with literally no bends other than under the rear control arm which even then I angled gradually to keep it almost straight and complimented that with a Nice big Magnaflow exhaust. Did a bunch of regular maintenance IE (Diff fluids, brakes,blah blah blah) Now I have taken off the manifolds and turbo swapped some turbo components from the 300zxt turbo and 280zx turbo to make one nice one. Ported the Turbo (everything lol did this to my talon turbo to made it spool much nicer) I am going to increase the Jpipe to 2.5" (Fab one up) Modded the pop off valve to accept about 12psi before it opens. Removed EGR Found a VG30 (Maxima 65mm inlet to 60mm where it joins manifold) throttle body. which I then took Motorcycle brake cable and flipped the throttle body upsidedown allowing direct connect to Intake manifold without spacer and linked cable to the old linkage at firewall. kinda neat for $33CDN total. Ported the manifold obviously to 60mm tapered to accept 60mm TB. Ported intake manifold to Head holes slightly larger to allow more flow and Ported Head to accept the flow. K/N filter cant find my old Talon intercooler yet so havent fab'd that in place yet so will run obviously around 10psi for now. Now... I couldnt find any injectors as of yet to handle more power in future so just might buy new for peace of mind. But! has anyone tried to put HICAS on a 280zx from a 240sx and also has the reliability of the ECU swap held up for all who have done it? Ty for your reading time I will be posting some pics of TB swap porting done the patient but backyard way lol and other such things. Lotsa painting litsa wirebrushing to go yay! Least this one came with only about 4.5% rust none on underbody.. Miricle I know!!! Of forgot the other question!!! or more blabbing.. Ok the 300ZXT turbo has the additional water cooling soooo where would one hook that into? prehaps off the cold start valve tube? Cause my TB has the through pipe ontop and I figure I could t one line off from there to the turbo or should I just let the oil cooler lines to the turbo do it or what!!! kinda swampped with all the ♥♥♥♥ im doing so hard to concentrate need other minds LOL.. Im thinking I could just T it off some line somewhere maybe to heater core go around back of engine to the tubo and then link in somewhere any ideas? Cause a Coller tubo is a lasting turbo right!!! lol