rustorbust

7.5".... with stock GM heads, I used trick flow.

Working excellent, have not had any problems with it at all. I have put about 2000 miles on the car. I would highly recomend doing it for the cheap alternative route if you are comfortable with grinding on the block and spending some time making everthing fit correctly.

LOL....Better yet....SHIFT the damn thing

Yea put some timing in it........

Gotcha, no prob man.

Hey Janaka....Were you able to get any pics?

Cool...yea same springs that are on my car. Im interested to see what it looks like with the DR on it. Thanks

Janaka.....Is your z lowered at all?

Wondering if anyone is running 235/60/15's on the street and if so do you have any pictures of it and what offset or backspacing on the wheels do you have? Thanks James

Well.....Buttoned it all up, put about a 1/2 a turn into the lifters from 0 lash. Started it up and put 36 degrees of timing in it, runs excellent so far. Took it out for a spin and man o man.....no traction in second gear at all.....fun fun. Seems to run pretty good up to 6 grand. Im gonna go ahead and put a couple miles on it in the next couple weeks and see if everything stays as it should. Oh and I went with a Comp Cams extreme energey retrofit cam...... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-432-8/

For the last couple years i had been using rotella diesel oil for breakins... I have used GM oes additive also in the past.

Thought I would post a little upadate for anyone interested..... Bought a cam (comp extreme energy) Motor is assembled and I ordered a set of pushrods last night, I should get them before friday and Ill have the motor in the car this weekend and maybe started this weekend also. I went ahead and filled the motor with oil with the intake off and primed it and at 60 psi of pressure the oil coming out the lifters looks about the same as any other motor that I have built....so....so far so good, looks like it should work excellent.

Will do....But I think in some of the pictures that you are looking at there I had taken after spinning the cam around a couple revolutions and the lifters are kinda sticking up cause the lifter bores are dry. I have another roller block that I put the cam into with the lifters and retainers and the lifters are almost identical in height.

Thought I would share some of what I had done recently. I recently built a new small block for my Z. Long story short, did everything correct to the T...correct oil, breakin time and rpm ect.... and had two seperate flat tappet cams go flat. So I found some information online where a couple guys were using roller lifters out of 2.2L gm motors, spiders and dog retainers out of later model v8 roller motors in early small blocks with a little machine work on the blocks. So I thought what the hell....I have already spent around $500 on cams and lifters at this point whats another couple 100 gonna hurt. So 49 cent used lifters from a 2.2L cavaleir motors. I already had the spider and retainers out of a later model roller motor and this is where im at....... Good thing about this is that you can either use the conventional roller type cam or a retro type cam with just using the correct timing chain/gear and button...Im gonna order a cam this week and should have the motor assembled and running on a test stand before it goes in the car. James

Ok so im a little confused....arnt you guys unbolting the lower control arms to swing it all out a little to bolt it all together?

This is how i just recently did mine, block huggers, 2.5" to the cheap summit merge to a 3" single.....

Hey Hans.....What happened with the clear box idea?....I thought that would have been really cool.

simply but easily missed.....did you hook the 12 volt wire back up and the wires that go from the inside of the distributor to the cap??

Looks like the timing is off

Another Elca Jon Z guy, Damn Dave what did you start. Dave (coltgt4g63) just bought a house out in El Cajon....Where at in El Cajon do you live?

How much total timing do you have in it?

OK... I did search and couldn't find what I was looking for. I am doing the z31 5 lug swap on my 280z and I have a set of front rotors and hubs off what I think was a 86 300zx. Im looking for the thickness of the spacer that goes between the hub and rotor to get the rotor to line back up with the caliper? Thanks

Hey everyone...I have been building my 280z with a sbc for a while now and im getting down to where i want to start driving it some. I have a set of Starion wheels that I really want to run on it. The front rims are 16x7 with a -18 offset and the rears are 16x8 with a -10 offset. I know with converting the front over to 5 lug it should set the hubs out a little further and for the rears I think the mounting point wont change at all when converted over to 5 lug. Where will the wheel end up? Or is my best bet to go ahead and run a set of zg flares on it? Or am I just SOL and should move on to a different set of wheels that fit the car with the correct offset? Thanks

Its a first gen small block with a long water pump.....and yes i was going to bend a coat hanger and take it to the parts store to find one but I thought I would ask if somone kept the part numbers from when they had did it. DUH

I am trying to avoid the back and forth to the parts store and hoping somone has used the stock radiator with a small block chevy and might happen to have the part numbers for the hoses?