zedsn

Carefully removed rust free spare tire cargo area. PM if interested.

Carefully removed metal battery tray. 1 seam has a 1" weld up in the corner. Will look nice when installed. PM if interested.

Nice rust free inside lower body panel that goes underneath the hatch. Cut so it can be easily welded and not show much. $100 plus shipping. PM if interested.

Hi, I have a nice 76 280z rear hatch that is completre with glass and stainless trim and is pretty much rust free. Shipping would run you some money though as I am in Ohio. If seriously interested drop me an email at zedsn@hotmail.com and I can send you a photo.

I have a good one for a 76 280z. Send me a PM with an offer.

Did your vapor problem go away after awhile? If not try retorquing the head.

with my lead foot in my stock 260z with a 4 speed and 3.54 rear I get an average of 15 mpg city and highway.

Hi Sari, yes sounds like you need to replace your brake master cylinder. I would try to empty the booster of brake fluid and reuse it. It should be fine if there are no pin holes made after you cleaned and painted it.

Along with the ujoints check to make sure the 4 bolts that secure the driveshaft to the rear are still attached and tight.

Besides the vin there should be a stamp with the vin number in the metal around and above the brake booster on the firewall.

I believe that you will have to get atleast 2 different sizes. The smaller is 3/8" if I remember correctly and you should be able to get that fuel line at any auto parts store but the larger fuel line you will have to probably get it at a hose specialty shop. Do not buy heater hose as the gas fumes will break them down at some point. And while your at it you will want to replace the hoses going to your pump while you are at it back there if needed. For some reason the fuel hoses at the pump are much better quality than the fuel vapor ones.

Hi, I pulled a 76 280 gas tank and there is a black metal vapor tank behind the side speaker panel under the passenger side of the hatch. To replace these hoses from the vapor and gas tank you will have to drop your gas tank somewhat to do so. Maybe 77 is different than a 76 though.

The 2 pickup distributors have an extra wire so the 4 speed distributors are not plug and play. I picked up a 4 speed distributor when I changed out my auto trans to a 4 speed and was hoping to just drop it in but it didn't happen. The connectors were even different.

My 260z automatic had a distributor with 2 pickups and when I did my 4 speed changeover I took the second timing retard pickup out of the loop. Maybe your Z was an auto trans originally and someone did a 4 speed conversion? I just parted out a 1976 4 speed car and the distributor only had one pickup. Sounds like you will need to get a distributor with 2 pickups as I had an extra wire with my 2 pickup distributor so I couldn't run a 260z 4 speed distributor. Or atleast it was easier for me to keep the original distributor and only use the main pickup out of the 2 pickups. The secondary pickup uses the water temp off of the block to retard timing once the motor reaches operating temp. I think it retards the timing like 7 degrees.

Hi, the 2 pickup distributors were for automatic cars and the single pickup was from a 4/5 speed manual trans car. 1974 and above were electronic and before 1974 they were points type. The points type will not interchange with the electric type. You will need to get the specific one for your car.

Hi, another posibility is I believe that there is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator mounted next to the fuel pump on the back bracket. Maybe try to adjust that or you might have to replace it?

Crank the motor over a little bit then pull the float bowl tops off and see what you got fuel wise in the float bowls and go from there. I too tried the 2 full turns out with my worn carbs and had problems so I had to go like 4 turns give and take.

Hi, sounds like you brought the jets up closer to the top of the carb and now you arne't getting any fuel even with the chokes on. I would take the entire air cleaner off and take a look inside where the metering needle is. You car going to have to lower the jet say 4 complete turns from where it is level to the top of the carb. I believe that each lever goes the oposite way to lower the jet to the metering needle. Also, do you have an air tool to balance out the carbs? If so you will need to do that after you get them running too.

you have a PM

check out the red 1976 280z with white racing stripes on ebay right now. It has a couple or photos of the engine bay. Hope this helps.

Hi, I just sold my 1976 motor today but I do have a photo of the engine but don't know if it will help but if you want to email me at zedsn@hotmail.com I will send you the photo. All hoses are all still hooked up as it was still in the car.

I trashed my 260 radiator and put a 280z AC radiator in and my car runs cooler now. The bottom sticks out some down below but for better cooling it is worth it. I saw a 280 radiaitor on this forum for 50. Your 260 will use a 240 or 260 radiator and you can probably find a good used one that has all capacity not 10% missing.

My full dash cap is older and has 1 small wave but still looks pretty good. Maybe they made the older ones thicker.

Hopefully others will chime in but to answer your questions yes and yes.

The lever that you see moving is supposed to move the jet downward during choke to basically add more fuel to the engine. I too removed the hitachi carbs and installed SU roundtops. Aaron is right about the mixture. For some reason you are probably running way too rich. Don't know how it got out of adjustment if the SU's came off a running car? You are supposed to balance the air between the 2 carbs before you attempt to adjust mixture. I got mine from JC Whitney but other places will carry the air balancer tool.