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My welder also does powder coating, so I am having him powder coat the J pipe and down pipe with some graphite black colored hi temp powder. Supposedly good for 1800 degrees F. Also....G POP , who is doing the carbon seals on my turbo is going to hi temp powder coat my hot side with some 2000 degree F Titanium color powder coating, and then the compressor side is being Powder coated gold. You will see, it will all come together. also mulling over having the turbo ported and maybe a custom turbine for the hot side to spool the turbo quicker since I like my 5500-6000 RPM redline. We go forward!

Turbo guru's please read: I have the T3 Turboboosts M12 turbocharger I got off of eBay, and because of what I have learned on here and other pages....being a draw through setup with crown manifolds, etc., I have sent the turbo off to "G POP Shop" in Arkansas to gee carbon seals installed, and the hot side is getting their high temp coating in Titanium finish, and I am having the compressor side powder coated in gold. Since it is there, I am thinking about possibly having a custom hot side wheel put in to create a faster spool. It has journal bearings, which doesn't bother me as this is just a weekend around town toy. The Specifics of the turbo are: Compressor : Inducer 52.7mm, exducer (outer diamter) 76 Ex turbine: exducer 55.8mm, Inducer ( outer diameter) 64.8 Trim: 48.1 A/R .50 420 HP Rated. Going on to a 171 cubic inch (2859cc) inline six cylinder Any opinions on exhaust wheel sizes, etc., that will help deal with a 4000 RPM spool, outside of manifold work and larger down pipe enlarging etc. I am thinking custom wheel(s). Not sure if porting would help either. P.S. I was shocked to find out Garrett turbos are made in Shanghai, CHINA.

Turbo guru's please read: I have the T3 Turboboosts M12 turbocharger I got off of eBay, and because of what I have learned on here and other pages....being a draw through setup with crown manifolds, etc., I have sent the turbo off to "G POP Shop" in Arkansas to gee carbon seals installed, and the hot side is getting their high temp coating in Titanium finish, and I am having the compressor side powder coated in gold. Since it is there, I am thinking about possibly having a custom hot side wheel put in to create a faster spool. It has journal bearings, which doesn't bother me as this is just a weekend around town toy. The Specifics of the turbo are: Compressor : Inducer 52.7mm, exducer (outer diamter) 76 Ex turbine: exducer 55.8mm, Inducer ( outer diameter) 64.8 Trim: 48.1 A/R .50 420 HP Rated. Going on to a 171 cubic inch (2859cc) inline six cylinder Any opinions on exhaust wheel sizes, etc., that will help deal with a 4000 RPM spool, outside of manifold work and larger down pipe enlarging etc. I am thinking custom wheel(s). Not sure if porting would help either. P.S. I was shocked to find out Garrett turbos are made in Shanghai, CHINA.

$195 ish for the carbon seals installed along with a rebalancing of the turbo wheels, and a thorough checkup for the turbo. It makes my turbo just that much better. Granted its Journal bearing instead of Ball bearing, for my uses, it is fine. On a Draw through Turbo, the vacuum created by the carb being in front of the turbo, tends to cause turbos to leak oil by pulling oil through the seals and burning it, leaving a blue smoke cloud behind you when driving along. This alleviates that.

Link for Juggernaut welding. Cool website. https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.juggernautwelding.com%2F%3Ffbclid%3DIwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAAR3EGU-Dqu0cfw2_m63F1YQu-CW318pQXZ_Ush6pggNbeHl8OQNLlR5f4Do_aem_ac5vXnq35WvOclQePkEbLw&h=AT0IhM7k5JMUmU4Da3JegoaFkYJi94JIpgCojduk9VuiZ3kpkgxoK37LEOmHxABvp0Qgj1AMVoPGScUuqmDpxbOOvHp49FuU_pWfpnWcuXN7KiwxEevWjswpH2lwGYs0zxUv&__tn__=R-R&c[0]=AT0k28CDcTUFU3EQVKLS_gVtj8TBYncoOs4GZlXwfM6VDYMIzCwzP9MPcYCFw4y3NS1BI57rNbNSol7ImG8BcVDJcAprSLckoG-ozRnwxaGlgyKOmnoft5id6PzK8HDN8Yp_cPwaTN1lvmKYXbH5BnMZry1voXvE41Pgor9jpkmGgKsmUBRJLQOD-UE7ya_Gklr_D1ctMJ6NDJcQqPqokvOZBxoP2M_8

I dropped my turbo in the mail today to go to G Pop Shop to have it updated with Carbon seals, which apparently are necessary when using a draw through turbo system. I also dropped off my J pipe to get a T3 flange welded on, and my down pipe to weld on a V band clamp, M11x18.5 bung for my AEM A/F gauge and a flange on the bottom at Juggernaut Welding. We go forward. https://www.gpopshop.com/

11-16-2024 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: wow...busy day. I got my down pipe cleaned up and ready for some welding....V band on the top, flange on the bottom and a bung for my A/F down low. I have a length of flex pipe to get in there when I connect the pipes together. I also went ahead and cut off the old Rayjay flange on the J pipe and I got a T3 flange...sure wish they hadn't chrome plated it. Then I took some time to try and clean up the ports on it a bit. Looks like my welder will have to fill in around the pipe where it meets the flange...maybe plate steel on the outside and fill it in on the back side? We'll see. My crown turbo inlet to carb spacer piece I cut down and got my 2 inch to 3 inch hose to fit on nice....just needs a coat of paint. After getting all of that done, I went ahead and mounted my Snow Performance water/meth injection tank and pump and ran the lines between them. Almost all the parts I need have now arrived, so now it is just welding and then putting it all together. V Performance modded Mikuni HSR 45 Carb and J&S Safeguard (knock protection) are still enroute. Pics follow. Cheers!

Many guys have done high compression and boost. the main issue is detonation. The way to curb the detonation is with water/Methanol injection. The other way is through a knock sensor (J&S Safeguard) that pulls the timing to each cylinder individually. I have elected to do both. My setup is a mild turbo setup......it is mainly for looks. As a by product I'll gain 20-30 horsepower minimum. This is a hobby car, and this is fun. I set it up and run it, if it is rich, then I turn the boost up little by little until it isn't rich anymore. same with timing, as much timing as I can get away with, and if it is rich or lean, change a jet in the carb. when it is running great and the A/F Ratio is good, then that's it. Whatever the boost level is....I'll know then. I anticipate 5-7 psi. 5500-6000 redline. I like torque.

11-10-2024 Turbo project update. I started on the interior, mounting the relay and boost pressure switch for the Snow Performance Water/Methanol injection, and then went ahead and removed the 432R stereo delete plate, and re-routed the wires for my A/F ratio gauge down to that area. I bought a 3 gauge pod panel from Milkfab Engineering to go in there. I will house my AEM A/F ratio gauge, my AEM boost gauge, and my J&S engine knock/ignition retard gauge. AFter that I went and started on the Crown intake plate. I decided to prep the piece for polishing by removing all the fins and stuff so it is smooth, and then I drilled and tapped for the Water/Methanol spray jets. Yeah, the holes aren't perfectly aligned...I double measured, dang......but I can make it look good once installed. I also worked on the aluminum block that mounts the carburetor to the turbo. I can't believe how rough cast it was inside the bore area. I can't believe the previous owner mounted it and used it like that. I went ahead and cleaned it up. So those 2 pieces are going to J&S Polishing in Colorado Springs in a day or two and will be a thing of beauty when I get them back. I have attached pics, and added a pic from Milkfab of a 280Z gauge pod with gauges, as they didn't have a 240Z pic, and the other pic is also from them, to get an idea. Thanks!

11-08-2023 Turbo Project Update: My Turbo it's a "Turbone M12" and my turbo oil lines arrived today, and I laid out the Snow Performance Water/Methanol injection Stage 1 kit today, and got it "sorted". Awaiting more parts. See attached pics.

"it's the Russians"

Thanks mate.

Performance Parts - Vintage Performance Developments

11-06-2024 Turbo project update: I have decided to not use the SU carburetor....I am switching to the Mikuni HSR 45mm carb. It's a motorcycle carb, and some of you have seen how guys use multiple ones instead of sidedraft carbs. I reached out to John at V Performance, and he is going to build and prep one for my setup. NO BUTTERFLIES! Butterflies in a draw through turbo cause a real vacuum problem, and is terribly hard on turbochargers, especially the seals. For years, guys have been adding "carbon seals" to combat this issue...this should combat the issue, and it has the benefits of having an accelerator pump, it's a true 45mm bore all teh way through and many other benefits. Here is an excerpt from a Corvair Forum from guys using it on their draw through Turbo Corvairs: Mikuni HSR carbs were last used in O.E. applications on Harley motorcycles and also Yamaha's. kmart356 over at Corvair Center has been a pioneer in using this carburetor, and he worked with the folks at Vintage Performance to make it happen! Slide carbs have always been a better carb than butterfly types because the fuel air ratio can track the actual airflow over a wide range of throttle openings and flow much more air for their size than a butterfly type can. They have a natural variable venturi as opposed to a fixed venturi and variable area like butterfly types. Also, because of the slide movement, area is gained in a proportional way instead of a wild magnetic hysterisis type curve that is typical of a butterfly opening. They were the last carburetors used in F1 before going to fuel injection!! Perhaps these would have been used in automotive applications more often long ago, but the big bugger in the old days was that the only other application for them were small displacement motorcycles and those did not need accelerator pumps so they didnt have them! The HSR's do have accelerator pumps and do lend themselves to automotive use. The HSR45 is an ideal fit for use on the F-flow Corvair Turbo, as it is nearly the same size as the turbo inlet!