[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

08-12-2023 UPDATE:  Finishing things up, little by little.  My dash cap had a lot of overspray, and wiping with alcohol wasn't doing a thing, so I masked it off, and wiped it a couple times with a clean rag and alcohol, and sprayed it with SEM Landau Back interior paint.  Then I masked and sprayed the console and shift boot as well, as the little white dots were everywhere, including my rear strut covers, so I painted and reinstalled them.  After that I went ahead and drilled out the holes for the 1/4" thick steel plates that go under where my rollbar holes are to help support the rollbar and cinched them down.  I then went ahead and poured some octane boost into the fuel to deal with the 88 octane issue and my high compression engine, and then also went ahead and isntalled a new set of NGK BPR8ES plugs, which are 2 heat ranges colder to help with detonation.  I went ahead and gapped them at .031 which should give me reliable spark.  I capped off the vacuum advance for the engine, as the engine just has too much compression to deal with ANY added timing.  Lastly, I started the install of my Carter fuel pump and filter.  I removed the old pump, and got the new pump about 90% done.  Tomorrow God willing, I will install a one way check valve right after the pump going to the engine.  This will make it so that there is less waiting for the pump to deliver fuel to the carburetors.  Progress is being made, and completion is very near.  Pics

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

thanks

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

08-06-2023 UPDATE.  CLEANING!  Before cleaning, I re-attached my rear spoiler, and used 3M double sided tape to help the 2 bolts that hold it on.  Then it began.....I washed the car, then washed the engine, then cleaned up and put the interior back in.  Tiring work....PICS

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

08-05-2023 UPDATE.  Spent the majority of the day finishing the paint.  i got it sanded out and buffed.  Feels great to be done (for the most part, a few nicks to fix, etc.).  I then hooked up my new clevis fork to my clutch, and measured it out 3/8 longer.  I tried it out.  PERFECT.  Clutch takes up halfway out and have play at the end!  Tuning is going to be tricky, I sarted to mess with it, but decided to just call it a day and think about where I am at.  Pics follow.

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

Most new clutch master cylinders these days come with a rod that is a hair too short, like mine is, so I had to add length, and followed what others have done.  So here is my clutch master cylinder fork with welded nut for length....Here it is welded....then I took it home, pulled the bolt and cut her down and cleaned it up a bit. I made sure the threads worked and gave it a quick shot of clear and it is drying. Should work. 🙂

[Honda k24 240z]

Personal observations......"only 300 hp" is a lot in a z car.  There is no cheap way to build a Z car correctly, and swaps are never as easy as they make it look online.

[clutch master cylinder rod WAY too short]

could it be as simple as welding a nut on the end of the fork and screwing into just that, no farther, and that 3/8 of an inch could make the difference?

[clutch master cylinder rod WAY too short]

no...... I went ahead and lengthened it over all by one full inch. Before the clutch pedal was 6.5 inches off the floor. With this extension, the pedal is at maximum movement up, around 10 inches. The factory recommends the pedal height to be 8.78 inches. I went ahead and tried it anyway. It DOES work, in that I can shift gears, put it in reverse, etc. But the clutch takeup is right at the end of the pedal travel, and there is NO play in the pedal at all. Should I make the extension 1/2 inch instead of 1 inch? I don't have a longer rod to just swap out. Attached is a pic of my extension. It is a threaded coupling with nuts on both end to lock it, with threads screwed in the end for teh fork to screw on. it isn't flimsy at all, it actually is very stout. Please HELP!

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

07-30-2023 UPDATE.  Jumped on the fuel leak in the rear first....the 51 year old original hose couldn't take the pressure of the pump and blew out, so I replaced it, then went ahead and installed the rollbar, then added in inch to the clutch master cylinder rod....now it is WAY too long!  So I guess 1/2" longer??  Pedal is at max height, and the clutch letout is at the very end.  At any rate, I then started the car up and set the initial timing at 15 degrees.  Took her for a maiden drive in the parking lot....very lean, and it pings as soon as you step on the gas.....octane of the fuel in there is 88 so I will add octane booster and richen the carbs and start that fun again.  At any rate everything works, and I now know the engine and trans will not have to come back out.   I took some pics...the car is VERY dusty and dull, because it is sanded with 2000 grit and waiting to be buffed.  The roof is already buffed but covered in dust.  Car is about 90% done now.  I am about spent.....glad it is almost done.  Cheers.   PICS:

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

07-29-2023 update.  Busy Day!  I started with confirming I was at Top Dead Center on #1, and I was.  That was great.  I thought for sure I was going to have to drop the oil pump, etc.  I also found out that my 240Z L24 timing pointer is much better than the L26 scale I have on there as well....so ignore the scale......I then went to drop in my new distributor but the slot for the screw that holds it in place after timing adjsutmenst was WAY off....so I had to dremel it out to work.  Once In, I went ahead to tied things up and tried to start the car....SUCCESS!  I was so happy!  No smoke, no bang, no explosion...I let it run and get nice and hot, and was rewarded with the weird smells of a new engine seating in for at least an hour if not more.  40-45 psi oil pressure at idle, or 950 RPM I guess......must be the 10W30 break in oil holding the pressure back a hair....at any rate, it IS good pressure, so I my first REAL engine build and it didn't screw it up.  Thank you Jesus.  After that, I started on the extension for the rod on my clutch master cylinder where it hooks up to the pedal.....not long enough.  From what I have read it is a common problem, so I have that in the works.  When the engine was running, one of my old fuel lines in the back decided it didn't like being under pressure and blew a leak, so I have that to do now as well.  I got the rollbar all unpackaged, and it is ready for install.  Next I ran my new set of Taylor cut to fit 8mm spark plug wires, what a pain.   But I got them done.  Then ended the day color sanding my hood , isnpection doors and top of front fenders, etc.  I got about 95% done and my new orbital sandeer broke, so I ordered another one.  Lasted 2 weeks.  I DID get it nice and hot and worked the heck out of it though.  Here are some pics of the busy day.  Cheers.

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

yeah.  We will see if this helps out.  Color sanded the clear coat paint on the roof tonight in 2000 grit and then spent about 1.5 hours polishing it with a buffer and 2 grits of polish (Macguires #105 then #205).  Glass smooth now!

[clutch master cylinder rod WAY too short]

On 7/25/2023 at 2:10 AM, jonbill said:

How much rod is visible at the slave cylinder? Have you changed the clutch?

Entire new clutch kit and conversion kit from Godzilla Raceworks, as this car is an automatic transmission to manual stop.  Whole whole kit is from exedy and matched.  The clutch master cylinder is exedy, and the rod is just too short!  

[clutch master cylinder rod WAY too short]

the pedal won't move up if the stop is turned in, unless you unhook the clutch rod.  It is too short.

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

Thanks, I am trying......Yep, going back to a factory setup with breakerless ignition.  When in doubt, go with factory stuff (or designed like factory if the original stuff is no longer available).

[clutch master cylinder rod WAY too short]

also the clutch pedal is much lower than the brake pedal.

[clutch master cylinder rod WAY too short]

the measurement from the firewall to face of pedal pad is 6.5 inches instead of 8.78 inches per the factory manual

[clutch master cylinder rod WAY too short]

On my clutch setup, I noticed that I wasn't getting enough "push" from the clutch master cylinder. According to the FSM, there should be 8.78 inches distance from teh firewall to the front of the pedal (see pic I attached). When I measured mine it was only 6.5 inches !!! so somehow, my rod is 2 3/8 inches too short! I am assuming I can buy a thread on coupling and some additional all thread to make up the length that is not there, but I am noticing that the clutch pedal stop is screwed out keeping it from coming up any more. So, I know I can simply adjust that out to let it come up, but I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem? 1972 240Z

 

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

07-23-2023 UPDATE.  Another day in the garage on the Z car.  I did some tests and found that my coil is good, ballast is good, but the modules in both Mallory Unilite distributors are bad.....I orderd a stock style breakerless distributor the other day, and it will be a simple 2 wire to the coil affair....So my time with Mallory is over.  Moving on.  Anyway, I also decided it was time to get the interior cleaned up.  I pulled the carpets and the seats, and then vacuumed and started wiping/mopping out the interior.  I took a couple pics....some just for admiring the glossy paintjob I now have.  Take care.

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

07-22-2023 UPDATE:  Trying to get it running.  Something in the ignition is wrong.  I am starting to think that the reason my new Mallory distributor was found by a guy in the back of his Z car unused, is because it is bad.  I have a new coil, and I wired it so that the power goes through the ballast just as mallory said.....confusing.  I also went ahead an confirmed my #1 TDC, and the distributor rotor is pointing at the 11 o'clock position!  Everyone is telling me that is supposed to be #4, but there it is!  Supposed to be at the 9 o'clock postion accoring to the powers that be online.   Any ideas?  I also attached some new emblems, and mounted my K&N electric fuel pump back next to the gas tank.  The bracket doesn't look good, but it works.  I am running it on a separate line with a 20A in line fuse to the hidden switch inside.  It will act as a theft deterrent, and I will have to turn the pump on, when I start the car.  I bought a black fuel pump block off plate that matches the valve cover.   Engine is DIRTY from all the bodywork and paint, but still looks pretty good.  PICS.

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

 

Thanks!  Me too!  That is next!

 

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

07-20-2023 UPDATE: I got a polisher and some supplies online heading my way. I am now switching back to engine. I got the PITA stuff all done.  I also ordered a race rollbar.  They have 1 left in stock.

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

If you have a garage to keep them in, do it.

 

My background is military and an Electrician, retired from both.

 

 

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

The reason I post my not so great work, etc. is to show guys that you CAN do it yourself, if you can live with just a driver quality. Too many times, I see the idea of "you either have to have junk or full out restored". That doesn't have to be the case. I have a perfect Mustang. It's not so great. You worry about every little thing, this is more of a carefree sports car.

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

My gloss black powdercoated grill turned out nice.

 

[Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build]

It has unique, custom flares that are a love it or hate it deal. These are universal fit, and I wanted a one off setup.....to cover the tires AND eat up the wheel well to tire gap. Cost 30 bucks on eBay. I have a backup set, and these were painted Charcoal Metallic with clear, but they need to be sanded and buffed out. If you look carefully, you can see I got them to carry on the line of the stock lip. I get the "It looks stupid" comments as well as thumbs up's, so I don't know.....I like them, they are unique, and I did it. In Japan you see custom flares, but everyone here all does them the same for the most part. If anyone reading this hates them, I can live with that....I like them and few others do as well. 

 

The paint job is a cheap paint job.  It was either this or DIY with tractor paint, so this is better. I am having to do paint correction.  There is dirt and dust in the paint  and some areas where the clear is dull down at the bottom, so 2000 grit sandpaper, Turtle wax rubbing compound and a buffing wheel with some compound will fix that. A couple spots where it looks like the air hose touched it when it was wet, that kind of thing.  He did tell me he put 3 coats of color AND clear, so that gives me some thickness to work with on sanding and buffing.  I had a tad bit of overspray lines on the rubber I have gotten off.  1500 bucks and 5 day turnaround means there is a tradeoff, and ANY bodywork that isn't perfect shows right through...the clear magnify's it.  So, the car is unique, one off and I will treat the imperfections as art.   and Life so on.  Jesus is Lord.