skipzoomie

Check your local hydraulic supply house. I've used compression fittings and they work fine.

JAMIE T hit it right on the head. All of the junk that forms in calipers over the years will make them stick. Another problem is old brake hoses. The insides will deteriorate and block the return of the brake fluid when the pedal is released. That may be your problem as the brakes release when you relieve the pressure at the bleeder valve. A stuck caliper piston will be stuck regardless of the pressure.

It seems that this repair for a lot of us is made out to be a lot harder than it really is. I think that it is a case of having the right tools to do the job. And the knowledge to do it right. I've done several spindle pin jobs without any of the afore mentioned problems. A spindle pin puller is an absolute must. Using a press is not the best way to remove the pins as destroying the ends is almost guaranteed. A hammer is absolutely a NO NO. At $40.00 apiece it's a no brainer to try to get them out in good shape and reuse them. All of the advice on the previous posts about cleaning can not be stated enough. I've found that cleaning the bores in the lower strut is done with ease with the tool that you would use to port heads. It's the round abrasive tubular piece that screws on a shaft and used with a high speed die grinder. Just a few passes through the bore and it will be clean as new. I always test fit the pin just to be sure there is no interference in the strut and in the control arm bushings. To clean the pin I chuck it in my drill press and as it is spinning I wrap a piece of 400 grit sand paper around it and move the paper up and down the pin until it is clean. It doesn't take long to almost get a polished surface on the pin. With a liberal coating of anti seize on the pin everything goes back together with no hassle. As mentioned before the short side of the pin, in reference to the lock pin notch, faces the front. Check the classifieds. I've posted for sale spindle pin pullers that I build in my spare time and sell at near cost. It's my way of giving back to the Z community for all of the help that is given to all of us.

I've been watching for years the govt turning our constitution and bill of rights into toilet paper. I' m just glad that I won't be around for the next revolution.

Just to simplify the answer to your question. All of the Nissan 4 and 5 speed transmissions are interchange friendly. Not so the Borg Warner 5 speed. All of the automatic cars I've seen have R180 diffs and 3:54 gears.

I've bought a lot of brake parts from rockauto.com. Great people to deal with. Great service.

When both your Mom and Dad say: "When are you going to stop wasting your money on that piece of junk."

There couldn't possibly be any problem with the aluminum and gas combo. Marine and aviation fuel tanks are made of aluminum.

You say that you hate automatics, but you might consider a swap to a 4L60 before you give up on automatics entirely. A well built 4L60 will not only out perform a standard but it will also cost a whole lot less to do the swap since your car is already an automatic.

Because of the problems associated with the early 700R4's a lot of them were replaced with Turbo 350's and 400's. Could it be possible that your trans is one of those? Check to see if your trans has a vacuum modulater. If it does it is an earlier model. If you do have a 700R4 the early ones only had wiring for the lock-up torque converter. If the lock-up function is not an issue then just ignore the wiring. The trans will work just fine. If you want "lock-up" then you will have to wire in the computer that came with the donner vehicle. The issue of a properly adjusted TV cable is VERY important. Do it right or you will destroy the trans.

If you are new to this arena, the old adage is: Pay me now or pay me later. Do it right the first time!!!! You can either enjoy the car or you can spend your time working on it. The later is always much more expensive.

This post is directed to all of you SBC guys. I don't see a lot of info on the 305. I've used a lot of 305's and had terrific luck with them. With just a little tweaking they will perform every bit as good as the 350. Better fuel mileage is just one of the benefits. As though that mattered anyway. There has to be at least a bizzilion of them and that makes them a bit lighter on the wallet. Besides, it does not matter if you have 600 HP, you will never get a Z car to hookup unless you do some very serious chassis work. And that equates to mucho bucks. Something a lot of us home builders have to keep a close eye on. Be assured your wife is. For those of you haven't thought of using a 305, give one a try. You won't be disappointed.

The HEI condenser is inside the dist. Right next to the module. I've been using HEI since it came on the market and never have had to replace a condenser. The dist hooks up to straight 12 volts. It's that simple and very reliable.

Be sure it's on the compression stroke or you'll be 180 out.

You could also take the broken cable to a speedometer shop and have it duplicated. They are very cheap. In the $15 range. Check to see if the cable housing has been damaged on the inside by inserting the cable and feeling for any resistance. If the inside has been damaged there is a good chance that it will destroy the new cable. Experience talking! Good luck.

The shalfs from the turbo models had larger flanges. Other than that they were the same from 75 to 83.

It has been my experience that the throttle valve should be all the way in and flush with its bushing when the cable is at the wide open position. The only way to set this up is to remove the pan and visually adjust the cable. I have never bothered with the converter lock because the trans works just fine without it. The 700R4 is a terrific trans provided you are working with a 1987 or newer 4L60. Not to be confused with the 4L60E.