skipzoomie

All of the above is correct. A bone stock HEI will work fine. No need for anything fancy. Just plug a 12 volt source into the + terminal on the cap and you are good to go. Shaft sizes and gears are not an issue.

Jack up the rear of the car. Place it on secure jackstands. Place the transmission in neutral. Turn the driveshaft by hand. Listen for the offending noise. This should narrow the area of the problem.

Phyxius has it exactly right. My driver is an 81 and it's wired the same.

Try a telescoping magnet.

EASY-OFF oven cleaner does a respectable job. Just don't get it on yourself. It's very caustic. Cheap, too.

11 gauge sheet (.120 thick) is more than enough. You should find more than you will ever need at the scrap yard. Plenty cheap, too.

They worry about panty lines but on the top side they'll show clevage all the way to their belly button! Go Figure!

Carburetors are dinosaurs!!!! Computer controlled fuel injection is WAY more efficient. And can give you all of the performance you can use. Why do you think all auto manufacturers have changed to EFI? Just look at the performance that is available in the new factory hotrods.

Mom'sz is absolutely correct. If you guys haven't heard of the clay block you need to investigate it. It's the greatest thing since cleaning compounds were invented.

Very good and easy to understand info, you guys. bo is a youngn'. Remember, we all started just as he is. Thanks to all for the patience. Sure beats some of the crap I've seen.

I've never used any break in procedure and never had any problems. Just drive your car like you do normally.

I've changed all of my cars to Dot 5. It's the silicone fluid. It gives no different pedal feel. The biggest advantage is that it is not hydroscopic. That is it does not absorb moisture from the atmosphere. If you have noticed all of the mud that forms in older master cylinders and wheel cylinders then you have seen the results of moisture in the brake fluid. All of this contamination is what destroys the brake system components. Years ago I had a Plymouth Volare, (no laughing, it was one of the most reliable cars I've owned), I changed the fluid to Dot 5 and for 10 years never had a brake problem other than just normal brake disc and shoe replacement. Try it, you'll like it.

JTR's manual has a section on "How To" for the Datsun shifter. Very good info.

Nice job, Clark. If you used hardener the fender cover shouldn't be an issue. Are you going to let me drive this one?

GREAT JOB !!! If that's you're first paint job you're a natural.

It may be a toss up as to which small block chevy is the most abundant. There are at least a bizzilion 305's out there. They have been built since the early 70's. The most popular tho is definitly the 350. The 305's can be bought for less money because of popularity. I don't understand why. They are every bit as good and piece for piece they will perform just as well as a 350. I've built several 305's and have never been disappointed with their performance. If brut horsepower is not your ultimate goal then the 305 is a very worthy engine. Remember, 600 HP and 500 lbs/ft of torque is only as good as your ability to make it work. A 250-300 HP engine in a Z car is a great street car. Very driveable on a daily basis and easy on the drive train and easy to maintain and just plain fun to drive. After all, driving the car is what it's all about.

I am parting a 1975. I'm not sure if it will work in a 76. That's the wiring harness I'm talking about. You do the research. Let me know what you find out. If you want the wiring email me direct at Skipzcar@aol.com.

I've been to similiar auctions. Lack of space to house all of the goodies is a real bummer. There are some real deals out there. My ideal living scenario is a 800 sq ft house and a 40k sq ft garage. We should be so lucky. Wifey wouldn't put up with that for a second.

Method "b". You should never pump the brake petal with the bleeder valves open. A piece of clear tubing placed over the valve is a good idea for two reasons. If it is long enough you can loop it up and then down to a receptical. The upward loop will visually tell you when all of the air in the system has been purged. The other reason is that it averts the mess that brake fluid on the floor and all over various parts of the car will make.

I agree with Mark. Never heard of any problems. In fact it is a nice upgrade. The old alternators were marginal at best.

The main wiring you'll need is the harness that goes to the ECU. I feel certain that you can use the Mazda starter and ign wiring. Get a JTR manual on Chevy into Datsun swaps. It's got a good section on wiring.

Try these sites. fedhillusa.com crownperformance.com

Congrats, Ma and Pa !!!! Take good care of those kids, Jamie. One day they will choose your nursing home.

The inside connector is behind the leftside kick panel. It's a rectangular piece about 6" long and 1" wide. If it is not there then it has been removed and you will need that wiring harness.

Check your local hydraulic supply house. They usually have at least a bizzilion fittings.