skipzoomie

You might solve that problem by welding the spider gear pin in place. You are not the only one to have that happen. I've heard of it before.

Close up all of the openings and wrap it securely with plastic bags and it will be fine. I had one stored for seven years and when I used it, it was fine.

I fly a hotair balloon. There's nothing quite like cruising through the sky in a wicker basket!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think that the most sold welder in the world is the old Lincoln 225 "Buzzbox". I've had one for 40 years. It has served me faithfully. And in the used market it usually costs around $100 - $150. It will do everything you need in the automotive/fabrication hobby. With the exception of aluminum.

Starting in 77 the fuel pump switch was removed from the AFM and placed in the oil pressure switch. Hence the change from a seven pin connector to a five pin connector. The 77-83 NA AFM's are interchangeable. The only difference is the way they mount to the body.

No, They are not all the same. 1975 was the first year for the AFM.

It sounds like your check valve is in backwards. I've done that same swap and everything worked fine.

Master Blaster of Orlando 2349 Brengle Av. Orlando, Florida 32808 407-295-7796

I replaced all of them in my 78. They were available at the local parts store. I found that it was easier to take the engine out of the car rather than trying to do it with the engine in place. Not a big deal. Out on Saturday and back in on Sunday.

I've seen the spider pinion shaft come out and trash the diff. You might want to remove the cover and take a look.

Yes, that is true. You can't be "almost sure" about being on top dead center. The tried and true method is as follows. Put a mark on your dist housing at the number one spark plug position. Pull the number one spark plug out of the head. Put your finger in the spark plug hole and turn the engine. A remote starter button comes in handy at this point. If you don't have one, enlist some help from a friend. Now, turn the engine over slowly until you feel compression on your finger. Watch the timing mark on the damper and when it lines up with the "0" on the timing scale, you are on top dead center. The pointer on the rotor should also line up with the mark you put on the dist housing. If it doesn't you need to relocate the dist so that it does. Hope this helps.

BE SMART about this. Listen to all of these oldtimers. This $40.00 will be the best money you ever spent on your swap.

How did you clean the trash out of the injectors? What kind of pump? How much pressure? A bench tester for injectors would be a great tool.

Change the sensors to those on the 78 motor.

For me, the gauge is a tuning instrument. It can tell me if my rings are still sealing well. If the valves are sealing and if there are any vacuum leaks. It also is a great instrument for tuning carbs. At wide open throttle there should be little to no vacuum. So that is OK. At 22 at idle is great.

Side plugs are 35mm. Head plug is 40mm. Don't remember the rear block plug size.

Starting around 1975 all standard transmission Z's had R200's. All the way up to the 1980's 300ZX's.

Look on the side of the diff where the axles attach. The R180 has a five bolt flange on each side. The R200 has no flange.

Funny handling on my ZX turned out to be the nut on the strut backing all the way out. I put it back in place and all is well.

For misc. parts try rockauto.com. I find them very good to deal with.

Dex Iii

I don't understand all of the negativity toward the 305. I've built several and they run GREAT. Remember folks, not everyone wants a bizzilion horsepower. I've got a pretty good idea that most guys on this site can't afford a $10,000 motor that is only going to be an occasionally driven car. To say nothing about how often it's going to break. Or break something. If a true daily driver is what you desire then get yourself a 305. You can build a really nice one for around $3500. It'll be faster than 90% of everything out there and it wont break the bank. The voice of experience speaks.

Pretty much a plug and play. I've done it. No surprises.

To check the start wire on the starter connect a test light to the wire (it's the small spade connector) with one end of the testor and ground the other end. Turn the key to the start position. If the test light lights then you have current. I had the same problem with my ZX and after exhausting all manner of cures I changed the starter and the problem was gone.

The dip stick tube fits into a rubber bushing and it will turn as there are no threads. It's not a big deal to replace it.