skipzoomie

The BIG THREE are hurtin' because they aren't real car people. There was a time when designers and engineers actually looked out their windows to see what was going on in the real world. Now the only window they look at is in a monitor. In the 50's and 60's the real car people actually liked performance and coupled it with style. The real movers and shakers would drive their creations. And the public loved it. Now all they do is clone everyone elses stuff. And because that's all there is the public is stuck with it. I have a hard time feeling bad for them. They brought it on themselves. And because of their blinders a lot of grunts on the line are going to loose their jobs. This country use to be an industrial giant. What happened? And now a Chinese car!!! Just what we need!!!

Locate a CHEVY POWER book. All of the info you'll ever need.

You mentioned hydraulic lifters. The correct way to adjust them is as follows. Warm the engine. At a slow idle, loosen each rocker nut (only one at a time) until you hear a loud ticking sound. Tighten the nut until the ticking sound stops and tighten it only 1/4 turn more. Be prepared to have some oil squirt from a few rockers. It makes a small mess but that's just a part of doing the job. Good luck.

Yes. Welcome to the site. Do some searching as every piece info in the whole world is here somewhere. If you can't find what you're looking for then just ask. Someone will be glad to help.

Thanks Guys. I did the search and found no conclusive info. I've built at least a bizzilion transmissions. They can't go out of my shop until they work perfectly. Got a reputation to protect, you know. I checked all of the usual things. This one just has me stumped. Never fear, I WILL make it work. Skip Pringle

What I've seen in the past is a heater core plugged. Disconnect the heater hoses and flush the heater core with a garden hose. As to the discolored coolant it could be the natural deterioration of the coolant and all of the other contaminates that naturally occur in the system. In older cars, regardless of the maintenance, some "GUNK" just naturally forms and flushing wont get all of it out.

I'm with Jess on this one. U-joints under pressure will squeak if they are dry.

My 4L60 does'nt want to shift into OD. Any ideas? All other shifting is good and on schedule.

The piece you should check is called a mode door actuator. It's on the left side of the AC/heater unit. 3-4 inches in diameter. 2 vacuum hoses.

Check all of the steering components. I replaced the steering rack bushings in my Z and the shimmy went away.

Great idea! Where can I get one for my horse?

Without seeing a picture it's my guess that it's the vacuum canister. It's used for the cruise and AC/heater functions.

Nothing from the cowl back is interchangable between the 2+2 and coupe. I have both and have done the measurements.

This is a very common repair. If done by a competant shop it adds to the safety of the vehicle.

I've never heard of it either. But it could be a Japan or Europe only car. It'll be interesting to find out the real story. AK, you're right about the 2+2 starting in 74 but it didn't stop in 78. It was continued right thru the 300ZX series.

Because of the age of the vehicle I'm going to say that there is foreign matter in the caliper. I've rebuilt many calipers with this problem. Rebuild the calipers and replace the brake hoses. You'll have great brakes. Calipers are very easy to rebuild.

Both year transmissions are 3N71B trannys. Direct swap.

Rob, email me direct at: Skipzcar@aol.com. I've parted several old ZX's. I may have what you are looking for.

Use grade 8 studs. Run them all the way to the bottom of the hole and locktite them in place. Use grade 8 nuts and lockwashers to hold the flywheel in place.

Well, everyone has an opinion. Most are not based on any factual information. There are no "CRAPPY" small block Chevy engines. There have been some produced that don't fall into the HiPerf catagory. But they are very servicable, reliable, and long lived. The small block started life as a lowly 265 cubic inch service motor and that engine design lives on in every small block ever produced. The Chevy small block is the most produced engine in automotive history. In my opinion that does'nt spell "CRAPPY".

Jersey, Great job. This is the standard by which all tech posts should be measured.

I think you'll find that the reaction disk has fallen out of its pocket in the booster. I had exactly the same condition in my 78. When I disassembled the booster I found the disc lying in the bottom. I put a small amount of silicone grease on the disc to hold it in place and when everything was reassembled the brakes worked great.

The flanges just pop out with a little help from a large pry bar

I'm not familiar with the Vintage air unit. However in their instructions it should tell whether or not a vacuum supply is needed.

You could be pioneering a new field. I can't recall reading anything on using TBI on hi-performance engines. There are different size TB's. Maybe even use multibles. It's a very interesting concept. Try it and let us know how it works.