RebekahsZ

There are at least three diff/pinion flanges for the R200. I have all three. The smallest one uses 5/16 bolts (that's what is on car now); the other two use 3/8 bolts. I put the two that use 3/8 bolts in a box with all my specs and measurements in a box to be mailed to The Driveshaft Shop tomorrow. I'll let them pick from thosr two flanges. Point of contact there is Frank. Will probably modify crossmember to make it easier to get a wrench on the driveshaft bolts.

I may have to start saving for some of those G7s. Those are yummy....thanks for showing those pictures. Bet I'll be saving for a long time?

Dang-I saw the original post earlier this week and finally got around to digging thru boxes. Just went thru a box and found 3 shock tower caps...

I dug around in all my boxes, and I only have the one. It is in really nice shape. It is as close to new as anything I've seen around-no rust or noticeable chips; chrome looks good. Just let me know if you decide you want it. It is in my "to be ebay-ed" pile.

I have one for passenger side. Black shoulder belt and lap belt. Good condition, no reels-just bolts to floor and b-pillar(?). Im doing enough events that i decided my co-driver is worth protecting so i replaced it with a 5-point. Don't know what it is worth. Just shoot me a "fair number" that includes shipping and you will be half way there. Talk to me by PM or email if interested.

I broke my driveshaft last week at the track by twisting off the slip yoke. The driveshaft was made by JCIs driveshaft builder. It was made with what looks like zerk-ed spicer u-joints and a 5-1/2" standard 27 spline slip yoke. This is the second driveshaft I have gotten from them, as the paint was cracking at the junction between the tube and the weld-on yoke on the first driveshaft. JCI has been super nice and sold me the second driveshaft for only $100 in order to try to stand by the product. Basically, I think we should consider the standard JCI driveshaft as good driveshafts for daily driver putting around, but not for sticky-tire repeated high rpm clutch dumping. I have ordered a replacement yoke from Speedway motors just to get the car back on the road and ready for an autocross, but I am also working on having a custom "nitrous ready" driveshaft made by The Driveshaft Shop. I hope to re-build my broken driveshaft with stronger u-joints and yokes to serve as a spare ( I'll probably break a driveshaft again). Some questions for the smart and experienced guys: 1) What are the relative strengths of some of the special yokes that are available: chrome moly, "hardened", nitrited, forged? 2) Should I be concerned that my u-joint caps seem to have rotated (spun) inside the holes in the driveshaft and in the yokes? I originally thought my diff flange yoke was damaged because the paint is scratched on the u-joint cap, but when I look closer, the cap has rotated and so have the c-clips that hold them in place. 3) Is an aluminum shaft stronger than a steel one of the same diameter? 4) Are there any issues with the "quick release" style yokes that have bolt-on saddles for the u-joint on the slip yoke? 5) Where might I find a high strength yoke for the differential end of the shaft that will be compatable with the R200? I have a HF press, so making some changes is no problem.

I got my AN fittings from Speedwaymotors.com. They are lots cheaper than anywhere else I could find. Used the push-on high pressure rubber hose. 2 years, no problems. Plan to cut your lines about 1/4" longer than your measured needs-when the hose swells to go over the barbs, you lose some length, and you can't get this stuff back apart once assembled.

Videos from the night at the strip have been posted in the Motorsports forum under a title of "V8 S30s Drag Racing at Moulton on 7/13/13" or something like that. Further discussion on this subject will be in the drivetrain forum.

I think somebody is PW'd.

Sunny-when you gonna get back to the track? I've got a two week lay-off for family stuff.

Wow! That's a bargain. I paid a lot more than that.

I think you said your vacuum port was open? Does that mean that your dyno day data was invalid? I bet that cost some power....love to see your new numbers. Go spend $500 on a dyno session just to satisfy my curiosity? Autocross is a blast in a wheelbarrow! But, I find different stuff broken afterward than I do drag racing.

Where ya gonna do a 30mph roll other than the street? I only go fast in an authorized place-gotta keep a clean reputation. At the track.

Race ya!

The twisted splines remind me of Sunny's axles that weren't heat treated properly. I should get the measurements done tomorrow in order to finalize plans with Frank at DSS. It has been a busy week at the office-and I've been too tired to get under the car in the evenings. I have tossed around the idea of just sourcing better yokes-anybody got a source? Anybody know if the T56 yoke is special, or can I use a standard GM yoke? My yoke has 26 splines, one is really wide. I'm gonna mark my next yoke with a straight line in sharpie so I can inspect to see if it is twisting. I love being able to visually inspect for impending failures.

Dual exhaust is not required...

You sure as hello need to get on that turbo. I broke that driveshaft running piss-weak 7.2s. I was surrounded by boosted Mustangs running 5.3 to 5.8 carrying the wheels 3/4 down the track. If I could settle on drag racing ONLY, I would so do a SRA swap like you and get me some boost. Felt like the slowest car at the track. Shame I want to road race/ autocross the car too...will keep me mediocre at all...

Replied to your PM. I didn't have any problem with using my LS2 2006 GTO accessories in combination with the F-body alternator. I didn't change my water pump pulley or my idler pulleys. My car already had an aftermarket under drive pulley-don't know anything about it. I tossed my A/C (actually I need to sell it).

Sounds like advice for a newly wed couple. Especially about the hours of prep for a few moments of bliss! Anything worth doing is worth doing faster and harder and when I'm feeling good-more than once! There's always a weak lin-preferrably the track prep. Seeing how fat Ive gotten in those videos makes me feel like "the missing link." Started a diet today-maybe ill still be on it tomorrow. The weak link was the driver's fat arse.

Matt's-I thought about that, too. But, the driveshaft has very little space between the diff flange and the diff yoke for installation. I wonder it the yoke is too long and the driveshaft tube is too short. The total assembly is the correct length. I got the email for the driveshaft rep (Frank) at DSS today. Will start emailing him pics of the failure and new measurements tomorrow.

Pictures. Most of these are of the slip yoke damage. One picture is of the rear yoke that attaches to the diff. I painted it assembled-I'm not sure if the lack of paint on the u-joint cap indicates movement of the yoke or not.... Have DSS on my speed dial-nobody answered during lunch. Included links to some racing from that night. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qF_HcPBkIg&feature=share&list=UUsYmPVA57WCEa7KNsD3Jlxw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SnMypSY99k&feature=share&list=UUsYmPVA57WCEa7KNsD3Jlxw

Hmmm, I may need to rethink the problem. I will look at the bolt length on mine.

Can either of you fellas post a pic that shows how much you cut off?

That's how I roll! Thoughtful preparation=simple execution. Just learning. Ill be an expert when I'm finished.

I SUPER appreciate your advice and sharing-more expresso! I have a wheel at Dave's for a test fit/clearance plan-I should hear something any day now. I guess the easiest way to maintain brakes during a hard day of racing is to just inspect them, shrug your shoulders and say: "They're good!" I have enough engine torque that I just snapped the yoke of my driveshaft the other night. I'm gonna need some better stopping. My wife has been so super cool lately; told her I need a new brake system and she just said, "OK." Wow! Got lucky on that one.