RebekahsZ

texis300-from the way your build is progressing, your sender hole must smell like $money$! I think I bought my last 0-ring from a vendor on ebay. Try searching on ebay for something like "Datsun Z fuel sender o-ring," or something similar. It is the same size 0-ring for all S30 models: 240z, 260z, 280z.

Yes. Definitely. With 400# torque on 9" drag slicks and VHT launching at 4500 rpm and yanking the front tires up (momentarily), I have gotten 145 drag launches before failure. My buddies break u-joint axles regularly with less power and traction. They are super easy to replace trackside. Kinda suck to put together, but only four bolts to swap out.

3 degrees of negative camber up front will solve your problem. Unless of course you are already there. I autocross and road course with only 26 psi on each end. Drop the front pressure till your tires start to roll a bit, then add a little air til it stops. Ya don't need as much air as folks think. Use shoe polish to figure that out. Zs need camber up front. Go to the FAQs section and look for the suspension alignment settings recommended by johnc. I am not a pro racer by any stretch of the imagination (I actually kinda suck), but other drivers can drive my car fast and they always say nice things about it, even when they have an opportunity to be critical. For me at my level, those suspension alignment setttings that johnc worked out are pretty much "plug and play." My car pushed bad until I added the camber up front. It was like night and day. What is the fastest way to gain camber up front? DP bolt-in camber plates from DP. Just google DP bolt-in camber plates and you should be able to find them easily. Call and talk to the guy there-he will need to know your spring diameter and brand of shock. You are looking at less than $300 and a weekend to install them. After you fix the front you will want to add a little camber in back-the effect of added camber is dramatic.

Mine sags standing still just from gravity. Ya gotta brace em.

Mistafosta- I'm barely that quick in the 1/8!

I disconnect the battery ground cable and I unplug the harness from the ECU. It is pretty easy to do and just makes me feel better, for what that is worth-feelings vs actual knowledge.

All of these mail order air dams and fiberglass or urethane parts seem to suffer from "production creep". In other words, the prototype fits like a glove. But over 40-some years of production, the product creeps toward crap. I have one of those urethane airdams on my car. I bought it and installed it without even painting it because I consider it a sacrificial wear-prone part. I scrape it on driveways (my own driveway), I run over cones with it, I kick it in the garage with my feet and jacks, and I scrape the heck out of it on my trailer ramps every chance I get. I braced it from below to limit sagging, but I'm sure it curls back under the car some at speed. The product creep compromised the mounting somewhat. Because of product creep, these things come without any holes drilled in them for mounting, and when you go to mock it up, you find that there is no material to drill a hole thru in the place where a hole should go-like in trimming them coming out of the mold, they cut the mounting material off! So with all mail-order airdams you need to be prepared to do some minor engineering to get them secured to your car. I love my pig-ugly, unpainted air dam cause I can treat it like a dog and concentrate on more important things like brakes, tires, motor, etc. But, I hope in the future to mount it with dzus tabs and to have a fiberglass airdam with the brake ducts in proper location to serve a purpose (they are kind of in the wrong location in my current air dam), to have a splitter and to get the air dam on the ground where it belongs. The car will look like a drift car on the trailer with the airdam stored inside the truck till I get to the track, because such an airdam would not allow me to load the car on the trailer. I will run my urethane airdam 90% of the time and break out the custom version only for special occasions, like landspeed and track days where i need the brake ducting. I still wont paint it very nicely cause I still plan to abuse it. That first scrape on a new paint job really hurts and the airdam is often where that first scrape (or crunch) occurs. Lots of compromises to be made.

In my town, the only driveshaft shop is only good for your tractor in a bean field. JCI can help you with everything you asked about.

I never sniff my sender hole-Im not that flexible. Nor that curious. Yes, there should be an o-ring. The sender has a tooth on it that forces you to clock it in the right direction. DON'T clean the o-ring with carb cleaner-the cleaner will ruin it.

I'd love to learn as much as possible about that machine!

Holy swaybars Batman! Do you have a thread or site where we can learn more about the car?

PM to Whatnow123 sent.

Continuing my photo dump to catch the thread up. Here's my black drag racing jacket that brings me up to snuff with NHRA rules for up to 9.99 in the quarter (I'm much slower than that). Once I get the electrical shutoff done and the steel bellhousing I'm all updated for drag racing. Then I show my fire resistant clothing and closed face helmet and arm restraints to bring me in rule book for ECTA. I'm not sure if I need fire retardant socks or not, so I may still be deficient. I went ahead and got a HANS device while i was spending like a sailor on leave. I just checked in with my fab guy/welding virtuoso and he hopes to get my car into the shop to repair my door on Monday night. Then when I get back from my vacation to St. Lucia the garage thrashing will begin.

Just read your trans post. I read all your stuff. I'm just not savy enough to hit the "like" button. ZCON in Memphis in July?

If Rota would make an 18" RBR I would be the first to buy a set.

Continuing the photo dump. Here's how I attached a convex mirror to the stock mirror housing. Simple and effective. I can see out the back and each quarter window too. Some pics of the roll bar painted. The last pic is a pic of a shop I hope mine will mimic.

I've always laugh at that expression: grown ass men. Seems the more grown I get, the less ass I have.

Working on my landspeed wheels. Looks like everything will fit, except that I have the wrong length dzus buttons. I'm hoping to order an assortment from somewhere so I can trial and error determine what length to buy. I have seen charts with measurements but I do t trust myself to measure it right.

I sure thought by now anti-matter would be discovered and we would be riding around on hovercraft. Go 18s. But, the only wheel I have found with our bolt pattern is a Rota Grid. Looks good on a 240sx, but a little wonkie on a 240z. If you don't think an 18 looks good on a Z, you haven't seen Mikelly's car. Looks awesome.

Gotta get this pool done before the girls are too old to enjoy it.

You can't take it with you b

Thanks! That was easy. I will puke a bunch of photos over the next couple days and get caught up.

I need somebody to teach me the fastest way to get a photo from my cell phone to the thread.

I had AN fittings brazed onto my hard line. It was simple. I would use all flex line if I were to do it again. Fewer connections which means lower risk of leaks.

Yep, big gaps. These cars weren't supposed to last 40 years! Paint thinner and mineral spirits helped me get that last little bit of thin undercoat residue off the car. Congrats on having a nasty job behind you!