Jump to content
HybridZ

RebekahsZ

Members
  • Posts

    5399
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    58

Everything posted by RebekahsZ

  1. I didn't mean to make you upset. It was a legit suggestion. Why are so many folks so emotionally raw on forums? Not just you (so please don't take this personally), seems like everybody is just one post from the nuthouse, like road rage in rush hour traffic. It was a sincere suggestion. I just don't know that you are gonna get what you are after until you hold the pieces in your hands, and mock them up on the car. Plus, i think you are after truth, not second-hand testimonialls, which is what we are a giving you. Travis's point was correct-we really only know about the particular kit we used ourselves. I will be happy to take any measurements or photos that will help you on your quest. You might also PM forum member rags-he's probably done more swaps than anybody. I'm gonna go open a beer (yup, at 9 in the morning-I got more than one if you want to stop by) and work on my car-got a race coming up. And I'm low on motivation or I would be out there already instead of typing in bed with my thumbs.
  2. Why don't you save up, buy every kit out there and publish an artical on here, maybe return the kits you don't use? Maybe the kit makers will even provide the kits, kinda like a Car Craft documentary. You can post pics and really get the facts instead of taking our testimonials.
  3. Ok zguy, if it rubs, you just gotta get some 1" to 1.5" (depending on your existing stud length) 4x114.3 to 4x114.3 spacer adapters from Internet. I think mine were $44 for the pair. Torque them to 90# with a torque wrench. Inspect them regularly for cracks around the studs and wallowing of the studs in the aluminum and you should be good. The Radial Pro only comes in the 275/60/15 (28"). Allowable height will depend on how much metal you removed when flaring and/or ride height. For me the area of conflict was at the dogleg. For a 26" tire you need 235/60/15 ET Street like Infidel runs. I think the 255/50/15 is the same diameter-wider with short sidewall.
  4. Let us know how the increased diameter of that tire affects things. I went from 26" to 28" and it kinda killed the car. Dropped my rpm going thru the timers from 6200 to like 5300 and wanted to basically stop the engine on clutch dump. But, I'm low hp so I think that sort of thing effects me more than it will you. Next tire for me to try is a 27x11.5 MT ET Street bias ply. The section width is 11.5 but I understand the tread is 9". I gotta wear out what I got first.
  5. It will probably rub without a spacer adapter. With no spacer you need a 4.5 back spacing to clear the strut, even with coilovers cause that tire sidewall bulges over the edge of the rim a good bit. I just mounted 275/60/15 Radial Pro as my landspeed drive tire (God, those are pretty tires). I am on 15x8s but backspacing is backspacing so the width shouldn't really matter since you have flares. Can you put a carpenters square on the center of your stub axle and measure the outside diameter of your calipers? Isnt there a speed shop in Houston where you can get cheap used stuff to do your trial and error fitting instead of buying and maybe returning new stuff? I can send you a Weld Draglite 15x7 4.5BS to try over your calipers if you promise to send it back. All my 15x8s are mounted and balanced with tubes and bead screws.
  6. Just curious, Infidel, do you drive the 2 hours to the track with those Front Runners on? I have a pair, and the tread surface is like paper thin. They are currently on my landspeed wheels since ECTA and SCTA allow them, but I run MT Sportsman's on my drag setup just so I can drive to the track on them. I'd be afraid to run over a ladybug with my Front Runners.
  7. I'm running a 1.25" spacer adapter that lets me run Weld Draglites over my Wilwood brakes. Before the spacers and brakes I ran 4.5" backspacing. Now, to get the wider portion of the wheel's "bell" over the brakes, I combine the 1.25" spacer with a 5.5" backspacing wheel. That keeps the tire in essentially the same position in the fender but makes room for the brake caliper. Both the spacer adapter and my wheel studs have 3" long 12mmX1.50 studs, which are essentially 1/2" in diameter. Whenever I remove the wheel, I check torque on the adapter and it has never loosened. Now, the draglites are another matter-they need regular retorquing every 3 or so passes. They've never been really loose cause I stay on them, but they always take a little torque with the torque wrench in the pits. The Draglites are dual pattern 4X4.25 (mustang) and 4X4.5 (Datsun). I use a 4.25 to 4.5 spacer adapter, so there is a place for all 8 studs to pass into the wheel without any conflicts. Its a great little compromise that lets me keep my big brakes for road racing and yet run 15" drag tires. Of course, I'm lower horsepower than you guys by far.
  8. About how long are the lower bars on each of your cars, and what do you use to locate the rear laterally? Diagonal link? Watts link? Can you count on an LSD to go straight with the front wheels up, or is a spool safer in that regard?
  9. If there's one thing I have learned from this and other car forums, it's that ALL car guys have a chip on their shoulders. It may be a big chip or a little chip, but the chip is always there. It seems to be something that we barely suppress on our best behavior.
  10. Do you want the drag forum in Motorsports? I will just start a thread.
  11. I absolutely LOVE it! If you burn out half way thru, think of me.
  12. 1 inch below cross member. Yes, 1/2" higher would give you a little more wiggle room between the crank pulley and the steering rack and the alternator and the steering rack. But, it would crowd you more on the hood latch. It's like threading a needle. The JCI mounts are great. If you want to do even better, clearance-wise, use the JCI mounts, use Corvette pan and an under drive pulley. Shave off the hood latch bracket and use hood pins.
  13. Ok, truck is back together, no longer leaking trans oil and full of oil again, it looks like the trans is fine. I even fixed the heater, so I'm golden for the moment on the truck. So attention goes to the Z for a last minute thrash to get my winter list done before May 1. Doesn't help that I have a wicked cold. Put Z up in the air and dropped the gas tank. Installed new metal battery box with 3/8" bolts passing thru the "frame" per NHRA rule book. Box still needs vent hose located and cables redone. Found location for 10# fire suppression bottle (damn it is big! And heavy!). Gonna go borrow a buddy's NO2 bottle tomorrow to see if I can leave room for that future mod. Planned out location of master power switch and fire exstinguisher handle. Need to make a bracket to locate them both. Hoping to finish fire system and electrical mods before April 1 in order to leave all of April for doing the bell housing swap. Got on the scale, and since Nov1 Ive lost 10#. 20 more to go. Still wont make up for that fire system!
  14. Mistafosta-you are talking about shocks for the front only, right? You are non-Z, live axle in the rear...what are the characteristics you are looking for and why? As usual, Im just trying to glean some knowledge from your quest. And what performance problem are you hoping to improve? Seems like you got plenty of traction....
  15. My local driveshaft shop has a monopoly and is terrible. I might take him a shaft for a tractor, but that's even a stretch. When the local guys provide such a crap service I have no bones about going around them. Sorry about your setback. I'm still fighting my tow vehicle as the Z sits in the corner looking sad and dejected.
  16. That's still enough tire to wear your arms out once you get them hot. If you ding them up some and want to sell them in the future (at a used price), let me know. I'm trying to avoid flaring my fronts and that setup might be great for me. I'm running 245/16s in front and 275/17s in the rear and the car was neutral during last track session. I wish Rota made the RBR in a 18. Lots of used 18 tires out there as cast-offs from the Corvette crowd. Your car is looking great.
  17. I had good luck with The Driveshaft Shop. But, you kinda need to know what you want. The tech guy on the phone sounds like he's in high school-first day on the job. He didnt seem more confidence inspiring as time went on. And it took a while. But it is a nice piece built to the specs we agreed upon. You need to know which flange you need to couple to the diff. For me, they sent me two options for a diff flange and I chose between the two. The rear u-joint to mate to a R200 is limited to a 1310. Plan to repaint-none of these shops seem overly concerned with finish.
  18. I have a 240z. If you ever need me to measure something for you, just PM me with your phone number. If you have the round front hubs, you may need to use 280z front brake rotors. The bearings are all the same, but the offset for the rotor is different.
  19. A7s/R7s? We are gonna call you "Big Money!" What sizes did you go with? Car is awesome! Think of me before you throw used tires away-I usually use used stuff. I need to ask my daughter if that is alliteration.
×
×
  • Create New...