RebekahsZ

Looks great. With the g-nose and all the shaved handles, why not make it a landspeed car? No reason why you couldn't do all the other stuff too.

You look like a gangster shooting that hose. "Gimme all yo money, sucka!"

I have a widow with a rust free, garage-kept, non-running '75 who won't sell either. We get a lot of emotions tied up in these little idols. I think a good rule of thumb is 4.5" back spacing. If you are flaring with BAMF flares you just let the tire hang out the side and cut/flare to taste. I have BAMFs on back and my 275/35/17s with group-buy RBRs, and I have tons of room left for wider tires. Camber makes a difference-you can fit more tire under the flare if you tilt in, but then the tire hits the ground at an angle. If you are going to race this thing with wide low-profile tires, look into 18" wheels (MiKelly is your resource there with 18" CCWs), because that's what the C5, C6 Corvette community casts off. Corvettes both drag and road race. I personally love the RBR look and really wish it was available in an 18. I would go that way in a heartbeat. Phantom, I'm gonna start a PM to you about cryo treating stubs, so keep your eyes peeled.

PM your question to EvilZ. He even has a set of 11" CCW wheels he will sell you if you go to New York to get them.

For a N/A L28, I would do a subi 3.90 LSD, betamotorsports, or equivalent conversion stubs and stock u-joint axles with new u-joints. You will have new stuff with low miles that is up to the task. Cheap, easy, adequate. And if you get that much hp out of an L28 I will buy you a beer.

I have said that many more times than I care to admit. Keep the brake cleaner and paper towels handy. It ain't over till you sell it...or crush it.

OK guys, thanks SOO much for checking your inventories, but stand down for the moment. datsunpartsllc.com just called me and he found a rebuilt 240z rack. He already has my money from my first attempt to buy from him and he isn't charging shipping and is floating the core charge to his rebuilder on the honor system. So, I'm going to follow thru with him. If the deal gets blown-up, I will get back to you guys. 1 tuff z also has a '71 with a documented 113k miles and a good inspection. Don't do anything at the moment. I REALLY appreciate the fast responses-it sucks having the car down during racing weather-I love hybridz. Jamal, I have looked at that ultrasound video for a couple of years and only just now figured it out-love it! Get that kid a HANS restraint system! My new konis do make me feel like shaken baby syndrome! I just read my original post and saw that I didn't include any background. When I realized that my rack was FUBAR, I went internet shopping for a rebuilt rack and datsunpartsllc.com had one. But when the owner checked his inventory he found that he had made an inventory error and in fact had no rack to sell me after I paid him. I wasn't mad-I've done the same thing honestly but accidentally. So, we worked out a refund and I posted the WTB ad here on the forum. Unbeknownst to me, he kept looking for a rack on my behalf in order to fill the order-and he found one this afternoon.

If OP is still subscribed, sound off so I know whether to chime in.

Thanks guys, but I want to buy stock. $600 for a part that doesn't fit only works for me if it has 8 sparkplugs and a flywheel attached. I'm abandoning the rebuild plan due to lack of parts available to do a good rebuild. Probably the reason why my "rebuilt" rack only lasted a few years-it probably wasn't rebuilt at all, just cleaned up and re-sold for a profit. I will be buying the best used rack I can find. See Parts Wanted forum, but please only respond if you have a part to sell me. Its racing season and I want to race, not do a redesign.

I need to buy new or rebuilt, but it looks like nobody has one. Plus, the "rebuilt" I bought from Rock Auto a few years ago is totally shot. So, if you have a 240z rack that has no play in it, I need it if you can part with it. Please grab the inner tire rod on each side and yank it up and down looking for play in all directions-I don't want to swap junk for junk. I can clean it up if it's dirty, but I'm going to be road racing (just track days, really) with this rack, so please check the tightness of your unit out as best you can. Thanks for checking your stash to help a brother. Keith

Thanks, but I want to finish this without redesigning the whole front end. It's power weather right now and times a-wastin! It just sucks racing a car which has had most of its parts discontinued.

Black Dragon has the tube bushing for the passenger side but none for driver side. But it seems that there is something more wrong with it. I found pics of the bushing-my rack is moving more in the tube than I think that bushing could account for. Placing a wanted add in classifieds for a good used rack. Swapping used parts for used parts, why didnt I buy a Mustang!!!? Datsunpartsllc.com says he will refund me.

DatsunPartsllc.com had one advertised and still active on internet site. Called the guy to confirm and find out about core charge and learned that the site was in error-no rack on-hand. He was really cool and is checking to see if his rebuilder can source another one and he said he would eat shipping to cover for the confusion. Waiting for a reply. I can get one from a junk yard, I just make enough money and my time is valuable enough and hard to come by that I'd rather take the lazy route if I can. Will post outcome.

Very funny! Actually, my wife recently lost 60#, so you might say I traded a firm rack for a narrowed rearend. It was a good trade.

Just out of curiosity I counted timeslips. And if I haven't misplaced any slips, that inner CV gave me 145 passes on slicks with 435#rwtq. I am going back to 9" Hoosiers but staying at 28" diameter.

Don't sweat it. Just ordered rebuilt rack.

After snapping the axle, I now have the broken axle repaired and another set built up in reserve (my hands are killing me). Also have a full set of CVs cleaned and stored in light oil in case I have more repairs in the future (cleaning up the CVs is the most aggravating part of repairing axles). I went looking for the little clunk I've been hearing in the steering and found out my rack tube bushings are totally shot. Glad I found this before something catastrophic occurred! Just ordered a rebuilt rack from DatsunPartsLLC.com. Working to get a set of ZCC JDM outer tie rods so I can get that taken care of too and save myself an extra alignment. Burned off all my fuel so I can drop the tank and get started on the aluminum battery relocation box. Ordering a set of 28X9X15 Hoosier slicks, trying to find somebody who has this narrow size in stock. I really only went to taller slicks to allow me to stay off the rev limiter in the 1/8th, and the MT 10.5s were dead hooking. So, I'm gonna compromise with a set of 28s for gearing, but sacrifice a little traction by going down to 9" wide. I do think the Hoosier has a thinner, more pliable sidewall than the MT, so perhaps that will cushion the driveline better. Will try to scare up another set of 8" rims so I can do a comparison, and maybe use the 9" slicks at tracks with good prep and the 10.5s on tracks that are slick. Looks like I'm probably on the jackstands until the June 5 trip to Ohio. The summer is off to a slow start.

Cool. You can text me at 256-366-4685 if you have time to get a quick sale once the issue is sorted out. Thanks. If I get them now it will save me an alignment.

I just tried to order these to go with my new steering rack, but the ZCC JDM website shows them as unavailable....do you know what's up? I will try to call them tomorrow. I'm thinking of raising my front ride height a little and I need the extra length to be able to increase camber with my adjustable LCAs...

Wrong bushings-I'm talking about bushings INSIDE the rack. Thanks though.

Found the clunk into suspension: worn, lost or missing tube bushings. The passenger side moved up and down so much it looks like maybe the bushing was never even there! Gonna order bushings from Black Dragon tonight if they still carry them. I assume that I need to pull the rack from the car but I don't know how far I have to dissassemble or any special tools that will make the job easier. Any pointers or shortcuts appreciated.

From your other thread, I think I understood you to say that your faceplated tranny was really just good for drag racing and that the car pops out of gear when you lift off the throttle..is that right? What are the advantages of the pro-shift modification? I have a buddy who just got his street car faceplated by Liberty-I'm looking forward to driving that car so I can see what this mod is all about .

Extra lash....does that equate to extra drivetrain breakage down stream? Am I understanding you correctly: wham!-when you drop clutch and wham! at each gear change?

That's it! Thank you!

Also need to decide if you want a stock body or a lot of "stick-on" stuff. That looks very late 70s/early 80's pimp my ride to me, whereas preservation of stock lines with body mods for functionality only is more my style. Get as much complete as possible. Stock lines looks "light" and body kits mske the Z look very heavy and bulky, and the lighness of the Z is its greatest strength. While no motor seems like a head start if you are gonna swap it, you'll be amazed at how much stuff you will preserve and re-use. Better to have the parts and not need them that to get nickeled and dimed later.