RebekahsZ

I'm working on same issue. No perfect solution that fits right out of the box. I think the best option is something that is too large and can be either riveted or glued over the home from the back side. I will send you a link for what I'm gonna try when I can get on my PC later today. On cell phone right now.

Still not the one I found some time ago when mindlessly lurking. But a good thread that I will refer to when I get to this part of the car. I'm starting to go thru build threads, perhaps it was there... It wa all about using aluminum to make radiator ducting and block offside the upper grill forward of the radiator support. I will keep searching. It may also have been in someone's flicker account and not in this forum at all... Thanks for helping me.

I cant tell from photos, but that might even be an R160 from a Subaru... to be sure, take some measurements between two measurable points on the diff and post them, then somebody can measure their R180 and let you know. I only have R200s in my shop and that is not an R200. I'm also bothered by the bolts attaching the cover to the mustache bar. Those should be studs with nuts-the threads in the diff cover are very coarse-not fine enough to handle a standard machined bolt.

Post a pic of your specific spoiler. Then we can answer you specifically.

What degreaser are you using? I expected you to run it just as it came out of the yard. Chicken!

Hadn't considered that. Lets go with 1st gear since that's where I dump the clutch.

I'm sorry, dude, but I would so sell my Z (or keep it since it is worthless), wash that 911 in my front yard, and freaking DRIVE IT! A Datsun vs a Porsche.....for me that's a no-brainer. I only love my Z because it is paid for.

Freaking beautiful. You need to park over mirrors wherever you go!

You won't complain when you exit a corner at 3000rpm and have torque for the first time in your life. I think the diameter is large enough for it not to matter. It's like worrying with mandrel bends in a 4" tailpipe. I think they just spend the money elsewhere, like political bribes, union dues, shipping parts in from Mexico and China, environmental consultants and retiree pensions. With all that overhead, you gotta cut corners somewhere.

If Gabe is making your tubes and backing plates/hubs, have him move tire back an inch like SunnyZ did. If you ever go with big rubber, you will appreciate that extra inch (that sounds funny).

Ok. Then I'm up for only the AMP activities and I willl do Friday track day only and trailer home on Sat. If you can, call me this Sat or Sun to tell me what a Z Nationals track day is like (how much to expect) and I will start promoting the day to my V8 buddies in North Alabama and Tennessee. If something turns up at Atlanta, Talledega or Bham for track time that weekend let me know. I will also do a quick check on drag strips in the area for either some Friday or Sat drag racing for anybody who leans that way (I can turn both ways, and go straight-haha). I'm just not a good enough sitter for a traditional "look at my car" car show. Sorry to put this stuff in your thread, but it's the most reliable way to get you without interrupting a testing or research session with a phone call. I will try to book my lodging before Monday.

I'm looking for some folks to help me learn about total driveline slack. I'm looking at the impact that the driveline gets when I drop the clutch at the drag strip with a manual transmission and I'm trying to get an idea of what is "normal" and expected. Total driveline slack includes total backlash within the transmission, driveshaft, diff, and axles. I am not trying to measure differential backlash. I don't want to have a big discussion or a critique of who's car is better or worse. I just want to collect some info from you and your car. Will a couple of guys try to repeat my experiment and post up your results? To copy my setup (so we are comparing apples to apples), put a jack under your left seatbelt pocket just in front of the rear wheel. Jack the wheel just enough off the ground to be able to turn it by hand. Put the transmission in gear, release the parking brake. Rotate the tire by hand clockwise until it stops. Use tape to mark from the center of the hub, straight down to the floor and put a little strip in line with that on the floor. Now, rotate the tire firmly counter clockwise until the tire stops rotating. Shoot a cell phone photo that is roughly the same scale as the photo I post of mine (mine is the Weld Draglite). I will enlarge and print your photo and use a protractor to measure degrees of total driveline slack. Thanks!

I'm still interested. Waiting to make reservations.

At full suspension droop on jack stands, my similarly mounted sway bar rubbed on my driveshaft. I'm never at full droop when the driveshaft is turning, but it just made me nervous.

Same reason my wife married me: the sex.

That seat has longer seat bottom (front to back) compared to my Kirkeys. I wish mine was longer. Those look good.

Great! That's FLYING!

Thank you. That is a good splitter/airdam support thread, but the one I'm looking for is one which shows how guys have blocked off the upper half of the radiator/grill opening and created ducting for the radiator that is mounted in front of the radiator support. Maybe it was on some other forum....?

Earlier this year, I found a thread that talked about this subject in detail with lots of photos, but after searching for several weeks with the hybridz search and google search I can't find it. Can anybody throw a brother a bone and send me the link?

Wonder what she looks like now-the car and the girl..... Hellaflush must not have been in fashion back in the day, somebody look under the front of that thing-it ought to have a differential in front!

Buy 6 and replace all the round clutch discs and re-use the ones with the ears on the outside. I was unable to mix old clutches and new-the stackup was too thick and created a spool. The Savage42 clutches are a little thinner than the originals. If I'm wrong, you will have 2 extra, but you'll finish the job without waiting for more parts to arrive.

OK, here's the Z Nationals basic schedule. Thurs Oct 9: Dawsonville Comfort Inn-track day tech inspections 6-9pm (interesting-tech inspections in the dark?) Fri Oct 10: 7am-5pm-Track day at AMP in Dawsonville, GA Sat Oct 11: 9am-5pm-Show/Dyno Day at Z1 Motorsports in Carrolton, GA Got the OK from family to do the weekend, so I'm in, although I'd like to skip the Thursday night flashlight tech inspection so I can work in the office part of Thursday (6 hour drive). There is a brief tech inspection scheduled for Friday before the drivers meeting. The Friday track day will be a parade enough for me, so I would try to support the B&B at AMP, just need to finalize our game plan. Matt, what are the chances of getting some hybridz-only track time on Sat, or maybe Sunday (second choice)? I will have seen enough modern, customized hellaflush hardware with tinted windows and fat tailpipes by about 7:01 on Friday to miss the Saturday show, and I've already been on the dyno enough to satisfy my curiosity. But, instructor track time-that's the bomb.

Will's a good dude-a gear head like the rest of us, just maybe smarter. He isn't a businessman, yet. Will, all OK at your folks houses with the recent tornados in Mayflower?

Glad you are into it! Was worried you might have a big race somewhere else that day. I haven't looked at the event schedule, but I wonder if maybe we could come down a day early or stay a day late for some less crowded instruction time? Will go over schedule with wife and need to make reservations at the B&B ASAP.

Job is finished. 1. Jack up and support car. 2. 13/16" deep socket and 2" extension on 1/2" ratchet to remove wheel 3. 14mm box end wrench to remove brake calipers if rusted to rotors. 4. Steel bar and 3# sledge to hammer caliper off rusty rotor 5. Big sheet of cardboard and mosquito spray 6. 17mm socket on 1/2" drive ratchet to remove front bolt on shock bracket that also serves as a guide for parking brake cable. 7. Pry bar to pry that bracket down an inch or more to expose outer companion flange axle nuts and bolts. 8. (2) 14mm sockets on long handled 3/8" drive ratchets or breaker bars to remove (4) nuts and bolts that secure outer CV to companion flange, rotate rotor to access nuts and bolts 1-by-1, at the 6-o'clock location. Inner socket needs a 2" extension. 9. Wrestle outer CV away from companion flange and shock bracket, let axle hange down from diff. 10. 3# sledge to dangling axle to "snap" it out of diff. 11. Repeat on other side. 12. Save nuts and bolts in zip-lock bag. 13. Pay the man, take some Ibuprofen.