RebekahsZ

Dang, that thing is sweet! Have you jacked each wheel up from the control arm to make sure you won't split a flare on a bump/launch/corner? Have you gotten into the car with your helmet on to ensure adequate helmet clearance-looks like you are taller than me. Love the car, I'm very jealous, especially of the dash and how well your doors close. Fantastic!

Thanks-that would suggest that I don't need to buy the 10mm unit. Anybody else care to confirm?

I just picked up a 3.36 R200 from a 74 260z 2+2 and I will eventually put a CLSD in it. It is not the project of the moment. I currently have (4) 12mm CLSDs I can swap around to my different ratio diffs. But, there is a 10mm naked CLSD carrier for sale in the classified forum and I don't currently have a 10mm carrier. If I need it, I want to get an offer in on it. If I don't need it for the 3.36, I will let it pass. To see if I need the 10mm for my early 3.36 R200, I pulled the cover: the ring bolts have 14mm heads on the bolts. I pulled the cover off one of my later 3.54 R200s and the heads on the ring bolts were also 14mm. QUESTION (finally): does anybody know if the 10mm ring bolts also have 14mm heads? If nobody knows, I need to tear down my 3.36, put the carrier in a vice and impact out a bolt to see. Help with knowledgeable advice. Thanks.

Inspiration for us ALL!

Just returned from ECTA (East Coast Timing Association) event at Wilmington, OH. A1979 Mustang with a carbureted 4.8LS and a faceplated Jericho 4spd with only an airdam set a class record at 173mph in the mile using a 3.08 gear. A turbocharged and injected LS-powered 1953 Studebaker went 202mph with the help of an air-to-water intercooler. It was great hearing that Mustang with the small LS roaring down the track at 7-grand in top gear! The Studebaker was so refined and developed that it looked like it was out for a Sunday drive. I will be returning next year with the intent to run.

I don't know why I can't remember for sure (PTSD from those weeks of clutch combat a few years ago-a hard won victory)! But, if I recall accurately, the standard flywheel fit over the end of the crank as almost a zero-tolerance fit. When I didn't get the bolt holes indexed properly, I couldn't rotate the plate on the crank, but had to pull it straight off and try again. I'm kind of surprised that the alignment of the flywheel to the crank is so bolt-dependent. I know you have thought thru this (and have lots more experience than I), but why exactly do you need a dual disc clutch? Sexy, but seems like just extra parts to break. If you were to back up and look at a single clutch system, do you think the supplier would give you your money back (before) you re-drill? You could always just TELL your friends that you have a dual disc clutch and I would back you up.

My standard-style flywheel didnt gave that slop around the bolts-the tolerance was very tight. I wonder if you could just have another set of holes machined to your flywheel bolts by your local machine shop? So many guys seem to have trouble with the assembly of these multi-plate set ups. I'd hate for you to get it all bolted together, then have to tear it down later. Thanks for the well-done video.

Awesome!

I'm a big fan.

Consider keeping the rear drums. Maxima or ZX based rear drums are a total waste of time. I've had them-I was warned-I did it anyway-I regret it. Only do it if you like to waste time and money. I can't speak to the Toyota front brakes.

And why haven't you posted this on Gen III where we can all cheer for you? So happy for you, it was a big day for me when I got to where you are. Congratulations. Sounds terrific. My car also had that funny little smoke at the end of the dyno, don't know where it comes from..tires slipping on rollers? Eager to hear what kind of power it payed down. Very happy for you.

They look so well made and hopeful, but I don't see enough range of travel in adjustment to get to 3-degrees of adjustment. Maybe when combined with adjustable LCAs....you could just adjust these before installing them to max increase setting and bolt them in then make fine adjustments from the bottom? If I look at how I had to adjust my DP and EMI camber plates, to achieve 3-degrees negative, I actually have my koni stiffness adjuster coming thru the most medial stock bolt hole (which I clearanced the heck out of). That tells me that this kit wouldn't do much. They may be ok for folks who have lost all their front camber due to lowering...?

Jack up rear of car and put on jackstands. Remove wheel. Remove axle. Disconnect brake line and parking brake pin. Remove little crossmber under the diff. Put jack under hub Remove strut insulator from chassis and put the corner on the floor. Install spring compressor Remove insulator nut with impact wrench. Reverse to reassemble Bleed brakes. With disc brakes you don't have to bleed brakes. With coilovers you don't have to drop the corner, you remove the axle, remove the caliper and let it hang on the flex line, lower the spring seat all the way, drop the strut from the chassis, compress the shock with your hand and swing the assembly out like an oven door. Air impact wrench the top nut off and swap the spring.

There are plenty of folks who put fuel pumps and lines inside the car, but I don't want the potential high pressure fuel mist inside the car with me. I had a Mr Gasket fuel pressure regulator blow a seal under my hood with only 3psi and it made a huge f-ing mess. That Walbro pumps at 60+psi. Plus, after my build, my car dirtied the fuel filter three times before all the "build dust" was out of my tank. Changing that filter was really messy. But other that 3/4 of it that went into my face, it all went on the floor, perfectly missing the catch basin that I placed under the filter. All this even after siphoning the tank "dry". Plan for the worst and you won't be disappointed...very often.

No, that is very bad. If you turn the steering wheel to the left, the car will go right. And, if you put the car in first gear, it will go backwards. Try moving your left tires to the right and your back tires to the front and everything should be fine. Perhaps your car was made to U.K. specifications. If you do the Hokie-Pokie and you "turn yourself around," thats what its all about. Honestly, it should be ok to install them however they thread on. You may have to remove your wheels to get access to the grease fittings. Perhaps someone reversed the inner tie rods-they both have right-hand threads to secure them to the rack. If you want you can remove the inner tie rods and reverse them but it shouldn't be necessary. I used to run left inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Or maybe it was both right inners and outers.

You may want a roll cage eventually, and it sucks to put one in a car that is already painted and assembled. You don't have to do one but if you do, now is the time.

ktm-are you R180 or R200?

Yes, do camber plates and coilovers-never overkill-really a requirement to truly enjoy the Z car. Without camber plates, the Z is an understeering dog. Ditch the old gummy, dirty fuel tank and do a fuel "cell". Not necessarily a foam-filled certified cell, but at least a plastic (no rust), new, clean tank of some kind. Best with a sumped, in-tank fuel pump with a pressure that is consistent with your powerplant pressure requirements. Getting a clean, original fuel tank is next to impossible. And the up-side-down mounting system for a stock tank is a major pain to work with once you start upgrading. Build a fuel system that you can maintain while standing on your feet instead of one that requires you to take a fuel bath everytime you need to do something. Focus on future serviceability and exhaust clearance. Also, plan out an exhaust clearance plan by notching any crossmembers that will be in your way. Consider adding a crossmember of some kind across the rear floor (just behind the seats) where the differential bolts in-there really isn't anything substantial to support the differential. Cut out the seat brackets and make new ones that put your butt on the ground-with a helmet, you will be cranking your neck if you put in a roll cage. Put in a roll cage. After that, you can start having fun. Skip all the B.S. brake "upgrades" based on production brake calipers and just go to a Arizona Z Car system. If you ever want to run wide rubber (anything wider than 7 or 8 inches), go ahead and cut your fenders out for over-fenders (the cutting is easy-its the welding that is difficult). If you are going to do a rotissery, think about painting your floor pans gloss white-it makes it so much easier to see under the car when you are wrenching in low light situations-avoid undercoating, except inside your fenders to catch rocks and pebbles. If you can find any fiberglass panels: fenders, hood, hatch, use them as these metal panels rust out about 10 years after your last paint job. Nothing pisses me off more than a big rust bubble in a panel that I devoted weeks to prepping and painting. Protect your glass when welding-the splatter ruins the glass. Relocate brake and fuel lines out of the trans tunnel-they are hard to work on once the engine and tranny are installed.

You are the first guy I've seen post WC axles on a high powered drag car. Please keep us posted on how they perform. What tire do you plan to race on?

Super nice!

4.60 gears? You are going to be one shifting sonofagun! What's your power plant?

Good, cause two of us have had them loosen up. I check all my drivetrain bolts regularly and you can't check those hidden parts. I worry about the parts I can't inspect.

I think I'm gonna be shopping for some new hubs! So freakish that the rotor is fine.

If it is a straight line car, ditch the sway bar for sure. I hope you red locktited the nuts that connect the adapters to the stock stubs on each end....

How does this roll racing work, and how do you know when to stop racing? Looks like a good chance to kill somebody or get a massive ticket.