RebekahsZ

Got one in the fridge. Got one for you too, so come on over.

I was kidding about the exhaust.

Just a set of rebuilt axles and a parenting schedule that leaves no time for drag racing. I did buy a set of more narrow slicks to try to get a little bit of slippage back into the launch. And a plan to start with low tire pressure instead of high pressure to try to get more sidewall wrinkle. I hope to start working on another 3.54 CLSD diff and will try to mix and match shims better to achieve less R&P backlash. Then will swap them and keep the car in service. After i do so i will re-measure. Interestingly, when I was rebuilding the CV axles I did find that there are a couple of degrees of lash/slack in the CVs. I flip the star-fruit shaped inner race of the hub-side CV to put the ball bearings on un-worn races, and shortening of the axles puts the balls on un-worn races in the outer CV housing. Even still, there is some lash in the CVs, at least a couple degrees per CV joint. I think, Phantom, that you run u-joint axles(?). If so, that may be a place where my total slack exceeds yours. Unfortunately, I really only got useable photos and video from one other forum member. He has CV axles and his slack was similar to mine. If I had gotten useable photos from anyone else, I would have posted them. I was glad to get your video and I could see that you had less slack, but it was too quick to analyze anymore than that.

Leave the indention and run the exhaust thru them....

Brakes?

Classed by power to weight but they don't care how you get there? Max power or area under the curve? I just remembered that you were really wrapping up the rpms to get where you are. With more cubes you could limit your MAX power with an rpm limiter and have lots more torque for corner exit, or well, anything. I'm just bench racing you. I appreciate what you are doing and will get off your back. You are a real motivator.

I say keep the indention to reflect the heritage of the car, but go without a bumper. I like the screen idea, but this area will always be dirty if you street drive it.

Thanks. Great video. What are the chances of adding two cylinders after this next Rebello blows up? I want you on our team.

Race history...we don't allow racist comments on hybridz. Seriously, that's great. I over-complicate everything so i admire a guy who tries a simple solution. Can you tell if the previous builder did have it ducted to the airdam at one time? I could certainly see how someone might just delete the ducting after knocking it off in the paddock, running over it, them getting frustrated and saying "screw it!" Or "can it."

So wait, is the SRA finished? No more turbo? For the car or for that intake? You gotta fill your fans in! You are holding out on us. What's the state of the project?

I don't think any of us would judge you if you went looking for another chassis at this point.

With the convex rear view mirror, do you still use the mirrors on the doors? Thinking about what mirrors I will buy before September (my next track day).

Sounds good but no reason to wait to post-I have been working on mine for almost 25 years and its not "done." Lots of us would love to see how you are handling things, ie I think you might be the first twin turbo I have seen on the site. Looks like it fits better than a single.

Im not a moderator, but PLEASE move your thread up to the V8-GenIII forum and introduce yourself. Sorry I treated you snotty, it was wrong of me. This tire/wheel forum gets so many posts from the form-over-function bunch that it can get hard to get thru the bull. Up there at the top of the site we can have a better discussion for those with potent power plants and the subsequent drivetrain and tire requirements. I'm sure you will get a bunch of folks who want to pick YOUR brain. I have 9.5" wheels on 4-lug with plenty of room for more. I have BAMF flares and an R200 IRS that is narrowed 1" on each side (it wasn't difficult), so I'd be happy to send you photos and measurements. I just down-sized from a tire with a 12" section width do to excess traction but there was plenty of room for that much tire on my car.

87-89 Z31T CLSD. It's looking like I need to tighten mine up, I think I have too much backlash. Interestingly, there is some backlash inherent to any morning me handicap assembly. I recently rebuilt a set of CV axles-there is a bit of backlash in the CVs. I just got a 3.70 CLSD that I'm going to put into a 3.54 R200 case. I'm going to try to do a better job this time and reduce a little slack in the driveline. Slack kills. I also mounted done more narrow tires, going from 10.5 to 9. Actual tread went from 10" to 8-3/4". I will probably run with the tires before I get to the new diff. I'm going thru VHT withdrawals at the moment-been about a month since my last clutch dump.

Holy smokes! You ain't kidding! A picture is worth a thousand words. I stand corrected and humbled. Crow tastes good with my morning coffee. Post up more pics ASAP. Looks like we got started off on the wrong foot. Please accept my apologies. What would it take for you to go straight axle and then you will be perhaps done with your drivetrain instead of doing and re-doing like I have done? With that powertrain I would try to go straight to a 33spline 8.8 or 9". I am finding that I am axle-limited at 400hp. And SunnyZ and I have had trouble with the sheetmetal around the nose of the diff. Surely you don't plan to have ALL THAT and not use it??

Think you will be able to bring it to AMP for Z Nats? I will give appropriate worship.

Going to five lug is pretty easy if you can spend some money (it's a weekend job). Get aluminum 5-lug hubs from AZC when you get their brake kit. For the rear, get billet 39 spline stubs from Chequered Flag Racing and install them when you do your AZC brake kit (you have to pull the stub for that anyway). You just need to decide if you are going to be a 4-lug or 5-lug guy before you invest in a lot of wheels. Or since you are going R230, you should go with the TTT rear kit which I believe is 5-lug. I don't want to speak for johnc, but I think I understand what he is implying. He has communicated it to me before. If you plan to do what you say you want to do (1000hp Z-car), you are gonna have to (to use one of my fathers expressions) shit or get off the pot. Maybe you have owned a 1000hp car before? That's a big number to throw out there. When you talk about compromised solutions like cobbled-together hubs to achieve something as trivial as a lug-conversion, it makes you seem like you dont really understand the magnitude of your first post. Maybe it was a typo and you really meant 100hp? Now that would make sense, as that is likely what most of the low rider Zs are really putting down. Those of us beating our Zs with less than half of 1000hp can't keep them together. So, I recommend you dial back your expectations a little, then the experienced guys will take you a little more seriously. To put that much power in a Z, you are talking about so much redesign and fabrication work that whether you are 4-lug or 5-lug is pretty dang trivial compared to the other challenges that you will face. I don't think johnc thinks you are a fool. But perhaps he (and I) think you are maybe just: fooling around. Build it and we will believe it. And if you want to build a 1000hp Zcar that you can drive farther that from the trailer to the track for one DNF pass, then winch that broken shit back on the trailer (this is basically what my last trip to the strip looked like), you need to have a couple of years and either a lot of fabrication ability or a big pile of uncommitted dollars. Try 300hp and you might get a meaningful discussion going.

Sorry, man, I'm out of ideas. Seems like you did everything right. I'd put it back together and try it again. At least you will get another data point. I dealing with the same think, kind of. I just broke a CV. If I look at the situation, it would seem that it was caused from going from 26x9 to 28x10.5. Was it the extra tire diameter or the extra width? Or did a crack start last year and it took a few more runs to break it completely? I don't know how to determine that.

I think it is important to say that even though there was some trouble with the order from datsunpartsllc.com, I have used them several times and have been pleased to use them. I'm not upset and I will use then again in the future if they have what I need. He hustled for me once the error was identified. I have a tracking number to receive the part on Monday.

It was probably a worn u-joint in that situation. When had you last replaced them? Likely never, if you are like me. With that power level I would just replace them all and get back driving. Any u-joint should do. The solid ones are getting hard to find. Just slap anything in there. I'm site your axle didnt bind, never heard of a stock axle binding. Go to the salvage yard and get a couple spares and rebuild them. It will be like taking an umbrella to a ball game. Never rains when you are prepared.

We rarely break diffs with a CLSD because the CLSD doesn't have a cross shaft. So when something breaks its the axle. The folks who say it is better to break a diff say that because when you break the diff most of the broken parts stay inside and unless you somehow break the case, all the oil stays inside. If you break an axle at speed, the axle flails around and trashes brake lines, fuel lines, whatever. And you wet the track down with oil, it shuts the track down for a couple hours and about 200 hardworking car guys that used to respect you now hate your guts cause you shut the track down.

What were you doing when it broke? Have you checked the diff to make sure it is fine? Sometimes an axle breaks because the spider gears in the diff lock and that effectively tries to stop that wheel. So, sometimes an axle failure is because of a diff failure. It doesn't take a lot of power to make the spider gears lock, rather it is a wear problem of the tiny cross shaft. Worn cross shaft lets spiders lock, which locks rearend which breaks axle. Look for pieces of your spider gears inside the diff.

I'm running 1" spacers with my 15" wheels to clear my brakes. No probs so far. Did you look at Mikelly's car? I never would have guessed they were 18s had he not told me. I'm just trying to discourage you from buying wheels that are hard to get tires for.

I'm running 1" spacers with my 15" wheels to clear my brakes. No probs so far.