orklc

You got my approval. I have one without the tubs in orange as well. My tires are 24.5" X 7" MT Slicks and a 1.8 L Toyota 3TC and a 100 shot of NOS. Good for 1.50 sec in the 60' and 11.4 in the 1/4 mile. Hope to upgrade soon to either a 3S-GE 2 L. with 200 shot of NOS or a 3RZ 2.7 turbo. The thought of going Z31 turbo engine automatic has also crossed mi mind but I have the other two engines already so maybe later. The mini tubs are also in the near future. Like to see more photos of the old 1200..... KC

Well, I have been given a T100 Engine (4 Cyl. 2.7 liter - 3RZ Toyota) in running condition. Engine was removed from truck and swapped for a v8 instead. I have a spare iron case Toyota W50 5 speed transmission that I think is a direct bolt on to the engine and I know that the engine has great potential being twin cam cross flow and high torque. I wonder what would be the potential of this engine with stock internals? Or what mods will be needed to be able to turbo the engine in a safe manner. Looking for 350+/- RWHP. I am thinking on swapping the engine in to my Datsun 1200 drag car. Imagine 350 RWHP on a 1700 lbs. body with good traction. Give me your thoughts. KC

I once remove the check ball (#37 on the diagram) and that by itself caused the secondaries to open as the vacum increased. The check ball is a little ball bearing in the Diaphragm assembly. I am not sure if this mod will cause any other problems in your set up but in the v8 set up that I had 350 LT1 and a Holley 780CFM it made the car a lot more responsive. Good luck.

No, you are referring to Scott Blankenship from the Central Florida Z Club.

wasnt that green dime in that old school imports video. i think so if thats an sr20 in it.

Check the Space Coast Z Club they have a few activities coming up at Seibring. Check the website. http://flzclub.com/ Ken C.

What about making the assembly adjustable for toe changes. My .02

First my apologies for resurrecting such and old topic. But I need to understand what is happening on my son's car. I just spend a few hours doing the maxima 90-amp upgrade on a 71 - 240z and it appears to be working as anticipated. I am reading 14.4 volts at the battery on idle and I am able to turn the key off and the engine shuts off. I have eliminated the external regulator in the 240z and bridged the yellow and white wires as indicated in the explanations as well as installed the diode across the white/w black stripe and the black /w white stripe wires. The gray band on the diode is on the white w/ black stripe end as required to eliminate the feedback to the ignition circuit. The other connections are also done as specified. White/red to B, black wire to E (ground), White/black to L and Yellow to S. The car feels find, until I decided to re-check the mounting bolts, and I noticed that the pulley is magnetized and my tools are being attracted to the pulley even with the engine being off and not running. Is this Normal? If the alternator is energized while the car is sitting it will probably run down the battery, correct? Any ideas as to what is going on and what I need to do about it. I disconnected the battery and the alternator releases as I expected. Any suggestions? Ken C.

You said you changed the calipers. The left and right caliper are not interchangeable as far as I know. Are you sure they are in the correct side? We made that mistake in our rebuild and it was a pain to diagnose. Once we flip flop them, all bleeding went fine and pedal pressure was normal. My .02 cents. I am sure not everyone makes a mistake like we did.

Scottie, I just sent a PM. Let me know. Ken

Well the hammer won the battle for now. Lets see if it holds up and what breaks next. KC

Well here I am 3 days after SEZ 5 back in Orlando and attempting to install the brand new driveshaft with Spicer U-joints in to my son's 240Z. I am having trouble sliding the driveshaft yoke in to the transmision as it only slides about 2.5 inches and stops. The transmision is a NA 5 speed from a 280ZX and I have test fit the driveshaft in to a 4 speed in the garage without any problems. I have inspected the shaft (brand new) and it looks perfect. It does slide without any hesitation in to the transmision until it hits dead stop. As it stands I am unable to get the flange in the back to fit in to the R200 rear end. Is there a bearing in the output shaft or transmision housing that is causing this problem? The hammer by my side is starting to look attractive to solve this issue or at least put an end to it but after spending $$$ for a nice drag race quality driveshaft it is hard to justify. Any ideas? Is it possible that the speedometer gear at the end of the transmision is in some way interfering with the normal play of the output shaft? Give me your thoughts. I do not recal this ever being discussed in the forum that is why I am posting this thread. Help....... KC

I think the best way to check alignment of runners and bolts is comparing the intake gaskets from the diesel and the gas engine. The actual attachment to the head via spacers is easily worked. My .02 cents.

All Datsun/Nissan Z Cars are welcome. Last year we had a number of HYBRIDZ. Even Z race cars have been registered in past events. So, come on down.

The dates are set for the 3rd Annual Florida Z Fest in Orlando Florida. February 25-27, 2005 new expanded program with something for everyone. Friday Feb. 25 Out of town participants gather at Hooters on SR436 near Orlando International Airport. Performance oriented Z fans head to Orlando Speed World for Test & Tune, or to the local go cart tracks for some drifting action. Saturday Feb. 26 Show and Shine, Tech session, Z Cruise, Special Olympics Auction, Swap Meet, Dyno session, Award ceremony. Friends, and fans visit and check each other rides. Sport Z Magazine will be covering the event. Sunday Feb. 27 Get going early to DeLand, Florida less than 1 hour from Orlando to participate or enjoy Z cars battling in an Auto X event. Get instructions from expert drivers and tuners and join your friends and club members for the caravan to go back home. For more information check out the action at http://www.SFZCC.com KC - Central Florida Z Club

I am sending you a PM.

Scottie: I think the car pulls hard through 1st and 2 gear but top end is laying down a little. I am thinking that the hydrulic lifters are discharging by the time they get to 3 rd gear and the engine is not processing as much power. What you think? Talking about getting it going, How is the red RX7GNZ going? Any track time as of yet?

I am interested in replacing the Hydraulic lifters in the P90a head with solid lifters. I read about Nissan fitting solid lifters in to P90a heads and I wonder if they are available from Nissan, or an after market manufacturer. I have a number of P90a heads that I can convert and prefer to deal with my cylinder heads and not be at the mercy of buying a P90 from the net for which I have no knowledge of condition. What about inserts to allow the use of regular solid lifters from other L28 heads? Any suggestions?

I sent a PM but do not know if you got it. I am interested in aquiring the solid lifters from your P90a head to convert my son's P90a head to solid lifters. Please let me know ASAP. My email is orklc@earthlink.net Ken C.

Sometimes it helps if you hook up the slave cylinder and step on the clutch pedal. The release of the clutch disc is sometimes enough to cause the input shaft in the transmision to align more closely with the pilot bearing and facilitate the rest of the alignment between the motor and the transmision. You will be able to feel the difference when all is aligned. All other comments are also valid in terms of facilitaing the alignment from engine to transmision. Good luck! KC

The car in the magazine is for sale. Check the link below. http://drag.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1057588103/1057588103ss.htm

225 HP is not the only problem, good traction at the line with 200-300+ HP and 250-400 lb of torque stressing not 4 wheel studs but 8 in every tire. Some of the quick L28ET Zs as well as Hybrids in this forum generate sufficient amount of power to break u joints, axles and differentials. I would think that spacers and studs will go the same way in a drag racing environment.

Have anyone keept the spacers on when doing drag racing with slicks? Are the spacers legal under NHRA competition or safe for that matter on a car under 12 seconds in the 1/4 mile?

Check out the arizonazcar website. They have a dash that could be fitted with the Supra gauges easily and do to the position of you shifter it may be work for both issues. http://www.arizonazcar.com/dash.html

I did an engine rebuild for my son about 6 months ago and this engine was stamped F54 and had a P90A head but it was NA no turbo. It had dished pistons and I am about to set up a turbo in it and now wonder if the dished pistons in this set up were actually turbo or not? I tend to beleive that this was a turbo engine that had been retrofited to NA before I bought it. It is running great but feel shaky at this point after reading this topic and the comments made about two types of dished pistons. Are the non-turbo pistons found in an enegine combo like the one I describe?