orklc

Looking for a pair of companion flanges to install 280zxt cv joints on a 1978 280z. Modern motorsports is out of stock and not planning to re-stock for a while. Adapter plates may also be an option. I am in central Florida and in the middle of completing the project and like to avoid mounting the half shafts back.

Looking for a 280Z dash in fair to good condition to restore with minimum effort and retrofit Auto Meter gauges. Original gauges not needed. Willing to pick up to 150 miles from Orlando, Florida. Cash transaction no problem. email photos to orklc@earthlink.net or text to 321-356-1433.

Look under ZGAD's gallery photos, there are 3-5 photos with the chute installed.

Good luck Mike. Keep in mind that you are on a new track, no one really knows what your car can do..... get my drift.... anyway if you get too fast tonight you may be required the window net ASAP. I am sure you are looking for an excuse to get the net justified so go ahead and get kicked out.. Just kidding.... Hope you have a great outing... Keep us up to date. Are you coming down for the word street finals in Orlando?

You have to have fuel and spark to fire up. 1. remove coil wire and have someone crank the engine while you move the end of the wire close to a metal ground to see the spark jumping consistenly. 2. If spark is ok, then check if you have fuel presure in to the carb. If you do, check the spark plugs to see if they are wet with fuel. if dry, squirt a little fuel in the engine through the carb (only a little is needed.) Reset the air cleaner and crank the engine to start. if it fires up then you have a fuel problem. Maybe the floats in the carb are stock closed, or the acelerator pump is not injecting fuel. Of course ignition timming plays a role on getting the engine to fire up quickly and to run smoothly. Good luck

Ivan, the reason I asked about your JW set up is that JW now has a JW bellhousing that bolts to the 2JZ without the need of an adapter like the boostwerks. The only thing is that they use a custom converter. I was wondering about using the flexplate adapter and a regular gm converter. I am researching that angle. TH400 > JW bellhousing > GM converter > flex plate adapter. As soon as I have all the facts I will post them. Ken

Since you are using the JW bellhousing I would like to know if you are also going to use the custom converter from JW or are you using a standard converter with a flex plate adapter? I am considering the JW bellhousing because I can get my hands on a TH400 from a Buick very inespensively and install the bellhousing to mate the transmision and the 2JZ. Do you mind sharing the $ for the JW bellhousing? Thanks a good luck with the project. Ken

Congratulations! Felicidades! Well deserved. Time to choose what you want to do and not what you must do. I hope transition is smooth and enjoyable. Sincerely, Ken

I was just looking over the ATI Racing catalogue and they list an adapter for 2JZ to GM transmision. I have been meaning to call and find more information here is a link. http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/adapterk/akit.htm

I would suggest to by-pass the stock bell-housing if you are planning to take it to the track with drag radials or slicks. Go for an explosion proof bell-housing (Lakewood) from the beginning. You could get it for close to the cost of the Toyota 2JZ bell housing and it would be a lot safer for you and your legs. Look at the NHRA regulations for the ET you may be running and for manual transmission vehicles. It would be an important item to consider when you are setting up the engine in the Z engine compartment and transmission tunnel. Otherwise, is looking really good. My rear sump should be arriving tomorrow 7/26/2007. Soon I will be selling my 1200 to finance the 280JZ.

You should seriously consider bringing the car to Florida during the National Z Convention at Daytona International Speedway - October 1-5, 2007. Here is a link for the event. http://flza.com/index.htm Some of the best cars (factory stock to heavely modified and HybridZ) will be on display and competing on shows, autox, lapping events, drags, etc. Plus is Daytona and Biketoberfest (October 18-21, 2007)maybe a good event also for your bike riding abilities. The car would get the attention and coverage that it deserves. Gret project! Keep up the good work. Ken

A friend here in Orlando built his own and it includes air jacks ( like from engine hoist) connected by a commun air hose that allows for air to raise the hight of the car and a flexplate crank that allows for the spinning of the car 360 degrees. Other features are that the whole assembly is mounted on four tires and a tow hitch that allows the assembly with the car to be towed to your next destinatination for the necessary work to be done. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Rotissserie_plus_1.jpg

On the issue of overheating.... Go to Auto Zone and buy a cooling system dye and added to your coolant/water. Run the engine and use a UV light and the UV Lenses that the auto parts sells to check for traces of dye in your engine oil, spark plugs or exhaust pipe. On the issue of power.... the SDS uses the TPS to sense the level of opening on the throthle as well as the MAP sensor. In one of the gauge modes of the SDS you should be able to see the actual readings for both parameters and check if they are doing what they are supposed to be doing. TPS values go up as you press the pedal. MAP measures vacuum/boost. You should have about 16 lbs of vacuum at idle. Let me know what you find. Have you read your spark plugs to see if they look ok? Ken

Tell me more about the overheating. Where both fans running? I know you have no distributor, and if the engine starts then the magnets in the SDS are being read. Have you made any adjustments to the SDS? Is it running in all six cylinders or have you lost a couple? How much boost where you running? Need more information to help. Ken

It looks great, it just does not look like your car. I am sure it is going to grow on every one and soon it will replace the old look. Have fun Gabe. Ken

Just amasing. While your are in there, why not make the room for much more tire in the rear all within the tubs and maybe even a much stronger diff so that you do not have to go back there to fix anything. My .02 cents. Good luck. Ken C.

On my son's car we installed 2 electric fans (12") to a relay and a thermostat switch that based on water/air temp next to the radiator it causes the relay to turn on the fans. I like this set up because it allows the engine to warm up to operating temperature and only run the fans when needed. You have control over the internal water temp in the engine by selecting the desired temp range for the thermostat. I feel that tuning of the engine has improved do to the consistency of the engine operating temp. We are actually considering the installation of a third pusher fan up front before the intercooler to assist even further specially when sitting in metro Orlando traffic.

Check the rotation of the engine, if it is counter clockwise like many of the 4 cylinders in the Honda stable it would require a reverse rotation transmision and to my knowledge only G Force makes one and it is $$$$$$. Just make sure to check this variable. KC

Hey guys, Friday and Saturday is qualifying days at Orlando Speed World for the World Street Finals. There should be a ton of fast cars and vendors with the latest racing stuff, turbo stuff, etc. I am thinking on going on Friday, anyone interested? Ken

I remember seeing a turbo adapter that looked like two turbo exhaust flanges and an external wastegate flange sandwiched in between that allowed you to go from a T3 flange to a T4 and use an external wastegate. I thought that TEC (Turbo Engineering Corp from Colorado) was the vendor but I could not find it in the catalogue. Is anyone else aware of this adapter and its source? I like to use an external wastegate without having to take the exhaust manifold out to weld a waste gate flange to it. Any ideas? orklc

1982 Nissan 200SX is the way to go. It has great aerodynamics is rear wheel drive the hatchback model would be my prefernce but the coupe will be more of a sleeper. It has plenty of engine compartment space for the in-line 6. I always thought that body to be great for drag racing. low front profile, low pitch on the front windshield and nice over all width and length for high speed racing. Check it out! orklc

You could also remove the shifter and fill the transmission from the top in a very comfortable manner. Take note of the capacity of the unit from the Nissan manual and do not over fill. You could also go to a quick lube 10 minute oil change location and let them be the one having to take the oil fill plug off and fill up. It is probably the simplest and probably not too expensive. Good luck. KC

Mike, when we put together Carlos car we installed a new MC as well as many other brake components but we had a terrible time bleeding the brake system. It turn out that we had allowed the little plastic spacer (I think is called a reaction disc) inside the brake booster to fall off during the MC replacement and no matter how much we attempted to bleed the system it would not build pedal pressure. We ended up buying a new brake booster unit since the one in the car was from 1970 any way and it was 30+ years old. That replacement cured our bleeding and pedal pressure problem. We later found out from a tech session from Skip at the monthly club meeting the story behind that little disc. If you removed the MC to replace it with a new one I would bet that the little disc is not in its proper position. My .02 cents. The stock turbo in Carlos car was also leaking oil so a rebuild was done and we have been happy (oil free) since then. Let me know what you find. Ken

Check your PM.