blueovalz

I'm not totally convinced of this, BUT, I'm not a subject matter expert in this subject (much less ANY subject). I know there are members who do know the answer to this and somehow we need to get this question out to them.

Nice brake set-up Mike!

I think prices range from $80 to $100 from the salvage yard, and more from more specialized sources. In regards to years, there is a sticky on this forum that tells everything your need to know about years and gear ratios.

Wouldn't this number simply be the COS of the kingpin inclination, which is 13º. This comes to .974 for the rear. The front though has to also incorporate the caster angle which means a smaller ratio of (just a guess on this one) .965.

With the Techno Toy strut assemblies, could one elongate the hub mounting holes and simply move the entire hub (not the strut assembly, only the hub) rearward? The CVs would be angled back at the wheels, but not enough to cause any issues. This way the strut maintains its correct geometry and the wheel gets moved rearward.

NOW I feel better!

Yes, but I put my fabrication skills to work and made a split .060" aluminum cover than was hammered around a 5/8" bolt that had the end rounded off. So now I slip it on they finger after the daily cleaning, tape it up and I'm good to do just about anything and the tip never makes contact with the inside of this cover. Now I need to tweak it a bit so I can type on the keyboard a little better.

When I dissassembled my gear (I'm at work and not looking at the shaft at this time), I recall the clip being just about 100% of the width of the groove, and at a respectable depth. IMHO, perhaps a new clip is what may be needed, and extra care not to over extend it when installing it back on the shaft. I'm not sure if two thinner ones would be of any benefit. My concern is that if the clip did get pushed out, then I would assume some amount of rounding of the groove's edge (and/or) the clips edge, which may promote this happening again. This may be a very small amount, but more than it was before it was pushed out. Lastly, has anyone considered drilling a short hole and placing a pin behind a spacer set behind the clip, or in the gear itself? The reason I bring this up is that the shaft already as a pin shaft drilled further up the shaft (1-2 gear area) to prevent the gear bearing race from spinning on the mainshaft. There is another hole drilled in the mainshaft further down for the speedo gear retainer. So I cannot see at this point any additional weaking by drilling another short hole to prevent the 5th gear from slipping past the groove. Is this thinking flawed?

This is something I did as a kid all the time. In general, any gas engine model is overpowered enough to hang it on it's prop. U-control flying a combat model was some tough stuff though. What surprised me on this post is that anybody does the U-control thing at all anymore.

I've got the same reasons for keeping the T-5 and upgrading it. Weight is a big issue, plus I'm not sure about the additional clearancing I'll need with the T-56. My T-5 is right up against the top of the tunnel. Plus, I don't know what the T-56 5th or 6th gear is designed like. The G-Force 5th gear is an 18/31 tooth arrangement. Compare that to a 33/53 for my OEM gears and you'll see the teeth are considerably coarser and larger, and with a straighter cut. I'm curious if they will whine a little bit?

The above photos are on tear-down, so it's the OEM mainshaft. I don't know of any other option on the 5th gear. Everybody is more interested in 1 through 4, and fifth seems to be ignored in regards to upgrades.

Simple job. Mount my wheels to a tire balancing machine and check the tires. No problem......right? Well, my foot inadvertently moved under the foot lever (that activates the machine's spindle in toward the wheel for a very tight fit). My finger was between the gripping paws and the anvil as my toe inadvertently moved the lever up and activated the compression of the anvil against the wheel. I felt the paws sandwiching my finger against the anvil while I was holding the tire, and reacted quickly enough to get my finger out of the way...but not before leaving a little prize with it. The paw pulled clean the top two layers of skin. Very paindull, veyy hard to type, and I'm very lucky no more rhan skin was eemoved. Be carefull guys! It can happen to anyvody.

Interesting. The G-Force main-shaft that I purchased uses 2 snap rings on the fifth gear (snap ring-spacer-another snap ring) for extra holding power. But now I'm seriously considering the extra $300 and get their HD 5th gear upgrade before I button all this together.

One other thing. The steeper gear cut may also have caused the snap ring to slip out, pushing the driven gear down the mainshaft. You'd be lucky on that one though. There is a small 1/2" hole at the bottom of the case that allows a connection to transmission lubricant from one side to the other, so material could pass through there, but there is a magnet at the front of the main case. This brings up a question I've got on my mind. My 'road track' gears provided an OD ratio of .80. The new gears I've got coming are .59 (big change). Because the “driven” gear is going to be a smaller diameter than what I originally had (33 teeth down to 27 teeth), will the smaller radius cause it to have less torque capability than a larger diameter gear?

I've got mine on the bench right now rebuilding it. My GUESS is that you've smoothed the teeth on it. My understanding of the limited reading I've done due to my transmission rebuild project is that the 5th gear is highway convenience oriented , and not meant to be used to pull hard with a really torquey motor. And I understand why when I look at the 5th gear teeth. Much smaller, finer gear teeth than the first 4 gears, and the angle of the gear cut is much steeper than the straighter 1-4 gear cutting. If the T-5 is not shimmed correctly to reduce the end clearance (correctly means less than the factory specs) to just about zero (or 1-2 thous less), then the gears will also spread apart on high torque pulls (again, related to the steeper gear cutting). Building one of these with minimal clearance is almost as important as the good gears. The aluminum case expands more than the steel internals, so once it gets warm, your clearances open even more so. Here are the 5th speed gears in the photo below. On this "road track" version, there are 33 teeth on the smaller gear, and 53 on the large gear: And here is a typical 1-4 gears, You'll not see more that 33 teeth on the 1st gear (largest one, to the left side of the case), and 13 teeth on the other 1st gear. Big difference even though they span the same centerlines:

It seems to me that 555 and Moog quite a while back were synonymous

Kinda like watching your own offspring explore and discover the challenges of life. :biggrin: :biggrin:

It has nothing to do with who owned it before you. This is very common and as said earlier, the impact wrench will take care of it. If you could somehow grip the rod (do not scratch or gouge it), it won't take much grip to get the nut to release even without the impact wrench.

I'd say leave it completely alone on the outside, and pump in the V8 on the inside. Nothing better than a stocker (expecially a good, clean stocker) with some hidden muscle.

To improve the roll center for severely lowered suspensions, one could consider an application already shown quite a while back in which a separate piece (I don't recall the fabricator) was fabricated that bolted solidly onto the strut pin housing, and then the lower control arm bolted onto this additional piece. It in effect lowered the roll center by lowering the attachment point by about 1", and this piece could be designed to perfectly center the outer bearing in a double-shear arrangement, and extend the front bearing to offer more resolution in toe adjustment.

I've looked to see what you did to mount the inner CV to your Differential stub (a bit off topic). Could you provide some photos (off line is needed) of that? It appears you're using an R180? I'm thinking that if I eliminate the outboard adapter, I may see what can be used to eliminate the inboard adapter as well, and loose a LOT of weight in the process.

Can I assume these designs are based upon the idea of modifying the strut so that middle link attaches under the tube (intersecting the centerline of the strut tube) as was discussed previously? If so, then these are interesting. The single thing that concerns me is that halving the length between the two bushing (and this could be mitigated somewhat by lengthing the pin on one side) doubles the forces on the bearings during acceleration and braking. Let's continue...

If I understand correctly, the OEM 4-bolt companion flange is being taken care of (your current prototype flange). Is that correct (I believe thats what you -and me- are using with the Porsche joints)?

So...I went to bed, thought about it for a while trying to fall asleep, had a flash of inspiration, JUMPED out of bed (the female sleepily saying "what's wrong"), and went out into the garage to do what needed to be done. Since I'd already f***ed up the 5th gear (chipped some of the teeth), I simple ground down the teeth (ground that bastard gear steel into the dust it originated from) far enough to allow the adjacent bearing outer race to slip over the gear (which in normally geared T-5s, it will), and then pulled the whole assembly out the top as it normally should. Then with the assembly out, slapped a bearing puller around it, put it into my press and pressed the SOB off the splines. I had to put some tonage on it to break it loose, but once I got it moving, it started easing up. No way I could have gotten this thing off any other way. The only good thing from all of this is now I can go ahead and put the .59 OD gearing in it, and then my 70 MPH RPM should drop from 3000, down to 2200, which will be really nice on the highway. Here is the ground down gear and the bearing race that had to slip over it.

I'm disassembling my T5 for a rebuild to better gears. So I'm doing fine using a rebuild manual. Then I get to the part that says, "Remove one snap ring (56) and 5th driven gear(70)." So I remove the snap ring (no big deal and this is common in transmissions) and try the slide the 5th gear off the mainshaft, and it won't budge, not even .001". So I try to pry it off, no luck. Due the the unusual road track 5th gear ratio, I can't simply slip the outer bearing race over this gear, and continue to remove the mainshaft and gears out the top. So now, after repeated attempts (each more severe than the next), I finally chipped some of the teeth off this gear. So I try to disassemble the mainshaft from the front, but there's not enough room to slide everything off from the front. So far, any splined part has been a PITA to slide loose, and this is the worst of them all. A bearing puller won't work because there is only about .100" room to PARTIALLY attach one, so the press is out of the question. I've tried heating the gear itself with a propane torch (not too much though), and that did not work either. I've gone ahead and made arrangments for replacing the gear, but it must come off first. Any good transmission speciallists out there that can provide some ensight into removing this gear?