blueovalz

I took steel spacer (it was ~1/2" ID, and ~5/8" OD, and cut ~1/2" long. Then I ground and then filed it to make a tappered sleeve that would fit into the knuckle, making the hole straight. When I was racing the car, I never used the above sleeves. I only made the sleeves as an added precaution for the street. With that said, the grade 8, 1/2" bolt WITH grade 8 washers on both sides of the knuckle made for an extemely reliable assembly. It was not a sloppy fit and it never loosened up. Looking back now, I would say that to make the sleeves was really just overkill.

This is not the answer you are looking for, but I have been able to remove my windshield many times recently just simply pushing the rubber strip lip on the inside of the car, over the steel frame lip, and out toward the outside of the car. I start on the lower corner and work (very carefully) all the way around the windshield this way, never pushing too hard on the glass. The BIG secret to this.....A new weather stripping. The old ones are usually to hard and aged to do this successfully (broke two windshield with the old stripping). After I replaced the old weather stripping with a new one, I never broke another windshield.

It's not painted or pretty (yet).

Since that time, The only ones I did find were in a male version, with a 9/16" head, so this still left me no better off than where I already was (which was a home made 9/16"nf to 1/2"nf adapter). I made the adapters by cutting the threaded portion of the OEM Ford tie rod end off the rod end, then carefully welding a 1/2"nf stud into one end of it. The new adapters have the 9/6" female & 1/2" male threads now.

Carbs guys are fine with a single line. You can use a second line from a regulator at the carb back to the tank if you want to go to that much trouble (and with the correct regulator). I've never ran a return line on a carbed motor though.

A wire welder does not have the heat buildup that the gas (oxy) welding does. Panels stay straight this way.

I'm not nearly as qualified as others here on the list, BUT, with that said, I feel the vendor of your paint (and supplies) will know more about this than anyone. It depends on the brand and type of paint more than anything else. In general, the newer paints (color coats) now can cover very well in two coats, but the seller of the paint will know for sure (or should know).

I was familar with some of the commonly known properties of Titanium, and it seemed that the only down side was price (which is a big down side). The valve guide area was interesting info. I will have to investigate that.

What's the scoop on titanium valves. Are they a strictly race option, or can they also be used for the weekend street car. I know very little about the use of titanium for valves and would like a little more info.

Sounds like it should work fine for a plug. Your biggest challenge will be creating a jig built to hold and maintain the correct shape of the two separate pieces as you make your splice.

What's more important is what width tires will be mounted on these wheels. If this is the "advertised" width, then the outside dimensions of the wheel only will be 9.5" wide, which means 4.5" on the outer half, which will be very close to the lip, but I think workable. My 8" rims had 4.5" on the outer half, and had 245 tires mounted on them, which gave me about 3/8" (pinky width) between the sidewall and the unmodified fender lip. A wider tire will be even tighter. BTW, there was an 1/8" difference between the front and rear lips as far as clearance (can't remember which was tighter, but I think it was the rear).

I'll send you one tonight (I very quickly wrote one up recently). It's not the greatest in technical writing, but if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

The Bullitt door is just that, a door only. It has a brushed finished, but is shiny chrome on the inside. You'll still need a gas cap and it's assembly under it to seal the system.

Try Burns Stainless. http://www.burnsstainless.com/

The Bullitt door is 6.2" OD and 4.5" ID, and about .3" thick. It looks identical to the Miata one, except for the lack of a "thumb" recess with which to open the door with. Is the Miata one a cap, or just a door?

I eliminated all the rubber bushings between the shifter stub and the shifter handle. I created a very precise, light feel. In fact, it's the best shifting tranny I've ever had the pleasure to use.

Exellent point Pete. I refrained from making this comment. My experience was that I found 2 baffles (not a typo here, 2 baffles in each side) finally gave me the desired sound level I wanted. The down side: two baffles offer very little cross section for the excaping gasses, plus it had that "puffer" sound. The power was diminished a small but noticable amount, but with only 2 baffles, I expected the engine to choke and die. It still seemed to work fine, CONSIDERING what was plugging the exhaust. It almost looked like the exhaust was capped off.

Any pics yet??

I believe I saw a 5 lug Altima the other day (surprised me somewhat). I do know that the 4 lug Altima front rotors will fit the Z OEM rear hubs will about a 1" offset (identical to the 80's Maxima front rotors), so I am suggesting that perhaps the 5 lug Altima rotors (I don't know when Nissan changed to a 5) should be investigated, and if it appears viable, let the rest of us know what the results are. Hopefully I wasn't seeing things when I saw the 5 lugger.

I never had the raspy sound, but the STs were behind a V8. They simply sounded like a loud turbo muffler.

I've used them before (and may have to resort to using them again). For racing, I removed the baffles and end plates completely, and on the street I put them back on. They are not quiet, even using a minimum number of baffles. I would compare them sound-wise to the flowmaster 2 chambers (if not a little noisier). Performance was good with them, but I couldn't get past the noise for the street mods I'm doing. But with my new rear undertray, and the close quarters to the cell, I may have to resort to using them again. They do draw favorable comments and attention due to their unique appearance, and with the SS, you never have to worry about a rust-out. Just be sure to use the anti-sieze compound on the retaining screws when you change the baffles around.

I run one for a (pardon me) Ford. In fact, I use two (front and rear plate). These are solidly mounted to the crossmember (f) and frame rails ®, but at one time contemplated mounting the front plate (for a front plate only option) on top of the OEM Z motor mounts (low hp version).

Also, have you checked (easily seen at night with the engine running in the dark garage) for any HV leakage (blue corona or spark) near the coil HV terminal where much of the energy might be going to ground instead of the plug?

The higher resistance leads to less punch that the coil will develop or pass to the HV side (assuming the measurement was across the LV side of the coil). BUT pure resistance is not the "end" measure of a coil. This particular brand may have more turns on both the HV & LV windings, thus the resistance will be greater, but turns ratio may be the same. Also, the HV winding must be measured too. I don't know what it should be, but it will be higher (much higher I believe) than the LV winding. Compare the HV windings of the new (is it the ground-to-HV measurement?) and old coils and compare them too.

try this then... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600838856