blueovalz

Neat stuff. I used something similar a few years back and was indeed surprised by it's strength. What I had though was more of an aluminum "solder", with a flux around it.

Sounds good. Have you weighed the engine yet?

Based on TimZ's figure, let's assume a 10:1 ratio on the pulleys. And for efficiency sake, lets keep the turbine pulley no smaller than 2" (3" would be better), the the minimum size of drive pulley on the crank would need to be 20" (big pulley). Obviously the centrifugal compressors are not ratioed like this, BUT, they use quite a bit bigger housing and wheel, which allows a slower spin than the smaller housed turbo.

I can only assume this is a future hybrid in the making. Any photos?

You sort of have the basic concept down, except that the exhaust driven turbo spins at very high rpms (I don't know, but is 20k a resonable number for high boost applications?). This is why the belt driven centrifugal chargers have gear drives that increase the rotation rate of the turbines. Even then the superchargers are biased with larger housings and vanes.

This is probably less than the actual figure (don't have my "list" on this computer showing weights) but I would venture a guess of a minumum of 450lbs.

Even if you have a "1 wire" alternator, you can still wire it up same as a 3 wire. You just can't do it the other way around though. Both types appear to be the same alternator externally. The sensing spade can be tied to the charge terminal as state above, but my understanding about the idiot light was that a small amount of resistance is needed here (i.e bulb filament) to allow it to charge correctly. I was told by two different rebuilders that with no light, it won't charge correctly, and with a solid jumper, it would eventually burn out the regulator. True or not??? Don't know, but I did jumper the sensor spade to the charge terminal, and I also jumpered the idiot light spade to the charge terminal (with an inline bulb). In essence then, I have only one wire going to the battery (via the emerg c/o switch). It starts charging (idiot light goes out and voltmeter goes to 14 vdc) at about 15 mph.

This was my "getting over my divorce" therapy project in 1990 (obviously I had a great deal of energy that needed to be released, and this was it). It's homemade, so don't look for the kit. These "parking lights" currently are turn signals only, but will be converted to two filament bulbs soon. The panels up front replace the steel, and in back, pop rivet over the quarters (which were cut, raised, and re-welded to maintain the unibody integrity).

Just a comparison on weights - I made a "formula Subaru" many years back in which I took their boxer style motor and transalxe and but it behind the seat to make it a mid-engine RWD. The entire aluminum 1.8L motor without the flywheel weighed 200lbs.

Extemely doubtful. My engine 302 weighs 389 lbs. This is with aluminum heads and an aluminum flywheel, aluminum manifold with a carb (I believe the EFI manifolding is even heavier). There are some expensive aluminum Ford blocks, and the newer later model 302 cranks were a little lighter by a few pounds, put a really cheap AutoZone water pump on (won't last past 6 grand many times), an old Edelbrock Torker intake (these were real light), an older AFB carb, gear reduction starter, and shorty headers, and you may get it down to 350lbs. But when an iron bare block only weighs 120lbs, then....... Anyway, to lose half of this "lightened" amount is IMHO impossible.

Thanks everyone.

That's why I prefaced my reply. The 1 wire uses three terminals, but they have a plastic plug over the spades so they are not used, and then there is some kind of VooDoo excitation or something done to the inside to make them work correctly. On the 3 wire ones, you have basically the same terminals, but you use one for voltage sensing, one for the idiot light (required, not just a convenience), and the charging terminal. With the spade cover off, I'm not sure how one would tell for sure if it was originally set up as a 1 wire or a 3 wire. But, as I said, even a 3 wire can be wired so that only one wire leaves the alternator (goes through a switch to turn alt off and not drain battery) to the battery.

If this is a GM one wire alternator, the single wire is the sensing/charge wire. With that commie fluke of yours, check to make sure the wire currently being used on the alt is switched (hot only with ign switch "on"). If so, you will need a hefty fusable link in it (just a guess here) that can handle the alt charging current if you should have a weak battery some time (left the lights on accidentally).

Two responses come to mind with that question. 1: Probably not with the minor portion of the braking being done at the rear, 2: if they were warped, the symptons may be hard to detect being no wheel shimmy occurs, and unless bias was perfect, and you were constantly on the edge of traction, I doubt you could tell other than micing it out.

Your back-feeding on the starter reminded me of how an electric fan can do the same thing. It turns into a generator as it freewheels to a stop. This caused some problems with my El Cheapo tach until I went to a better higher quality tach. In the mean time, the 1 wire can take the battery voltage directly, but needs to be switched to keep the alt from draining the battery (ign switch for instance). In fact, I'm using a 3 wire GM unit that is, in essence, hooked to only one wire going to the battery. I switch it off when I'm done driving to prevent battery drain (still using the race car emergency cut-off switch) by opening the battery + lead wire.

cold here too. Will be in MEM this month some time, so I'll TRY to let you know and stop by if possible.

The threaded sleeve will rest upon a ring (I used a 3/8" slice of 2" steel pipe) that should be welded around the strut tube at an appropriate point that will allow the tube to be positioned for full use of the treaded portion (not too high or too low).

They are a set of PIAA 110 watt pencil beams (it's a 900 series light). I wanted to use the Acura head lights, but they were very expensive even at salvage prices. I then paralleled six 3 ohm, 40 watt resistors into a bank in series with each light to make them dim enough for street use. So instead of a high/low beam option, I instead have high/low power option.

I'm still at that point in life where the "estrogen factor" still has a great deal of influence in my life. Paint: she convinced me to go with the original color. Plants: she didn't want them to freeze this weekend, and the spiders aren't out of the pots yet, so I have to deal with them (plants and the now very slow spiders)until the posts are "house safe". So you see, my Z is the last bastion of testoterone in this household. Z: always parked behind HER pathfinder. But I wouldn't change her a bit.

Getting closer to that street legal status with these Geo Storm marker lights

Even my 200lb springs in back would be too stiff or drag racing. Your 225lb springs will give a firm but tolerable street ride (provided the strut inserts damp it well enough).

Just to chime in here, These parameters of installation are nearly identical to mine, even though they were done independently. The only difference was my angle was less than 1 degree (nearly horizontal) for the engine axis.

When my cat got pluged, I found out it was caused by a little plastic lizard he ate. After the vet opened him up, removed it (or most of it), sewed him back up, and my cat was a-poopin in no time.

In the near future, I'm going to be installing a new rotating assembly in my SBF. While doing this, I thought about making a template of the plates I made to mount the engine. I would like some information about the differences (if any exist) in the timing chain covers for the different years of 302 motors. This way I can incorporate all or any changes in bolt patterns in the template, which may help anybody contemplating this mounting method in the future. So if any of you Ford guy who are knowledgable in this area chime in, I'd appreciate it. I will also focus my endeavors toward finding an acceptable mount that allows this plate to mount onto the OEM Z crossmember's engine pedestals.

I ran a high velocity jet of air over the fabricated fender vents positioned over the tops of each of the front wheels this last summer, and it was very apparent that air was drawn out from under the car (when using smoke bombs as a marker). This position was chosen because the curvature of the fenders became somewhat flatter here, and based on some very limited work and knowledge in airfoil design, I reasoned that this was a resonable place to put them. Terry