blueovalz

For the tenderfoots who want to try fiberglass fabricating, an option which I used on my hood, is to purchase a part that is already made of fiberglass, and then modify the part to your choosing. I started with an already made fiberglass hood, then fabricated the airbox, moved the power bulge rearward, filled in the area where the bulge was cut out, and then detailed it. This was much easier than the ground up build that I had to do on the other parts. So find a part or kit that closely resembles your idea of your perfect Z, then purchase and modify those parts. Fiberglass parts are a breeze to modify, compared to doing the same with steel parts.

Guys are soooo easy. I wished that's all it took to get my wife orgasmic. Instead, I've got to work harder on her than I do on my car. Seriously, no, I've not made any molds of it. Mostly because it's all tied together. The quarters need the doors to mate up with it, and I built it to be disassembled quickly, which does not lend itself well to folks with full interiors (probably 80% if potential customers). Plus the front wheel openings are centered around a wheel base that's over 1" longer than stock. It never dawned on me that anybody would want copies of it when I built it, but foresight is everything. That's how fortunes are made, and why my 401K in looking pretty sorry right now.

Double what Sunny said. I filled in the quarters on blueovalz (about 5") with the minimally expanding foam. Then undercoated it. A year later, the foam had developed spaces .060"-.100" next to the confining sheet metal and the fiberglass too. I simply filled these with a sealer and re-undercoated it all again. So yes, this stuff will shrink in time.

I have to agree with only 1 or the 3 messages MacDaddy suggested (he he). I had the option of using the 16" wheels I had (10" & 12"), but the available aspect ratios made them too tall, and IMHO unfit for the handling the suspension was set up for. I opted for 17" wheels instead, and do not regret it.

The WC T-5 is just a tad bit stronger than the regular duty T-5 (maybe at best 20ft/lbs of torque I think being I don't have my reference material here at work). I believe this gain is mostly in 1st gear. Either way, a stuffed 400 cid motor is going to be very hard on the tranny. With "normally" sized tires (215-225) and descent driving habits (with a blower...right!!) you may get one to live fairly long.

No I don't. Sorry me for not having enough foresight to do this (as with my blue one too). The 250 GTO was indeed my inspiration.

Here is an old shot of the parking/turn signal lights. While I was at it I decided to add what the car looks like as I write (primed part of it today being we had a warm day). RacerX; the foam seal on my filler assembly is simply sticky back weather striping 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick, and even lacquer thinner does not hurt it. Finally got the entire filler tube hard mounted to the cell this afternoon (while the primer was drying) and it works great. I'll post a pic of it soon.

There are big differences between a BOSS and a Windsor, but to make a Windsor 302 "appear" similar, and breath similar to a BOSS 302, you'd have to put the Cleveland 351 4v heads on it (which includes plugging the OEM water passages on the heads, and opening new ones facing the manifold. I actually ran what was called a "Steet Boss" in that I used the Cleveland 2V heads (again with modified water passages) with an intake made for this swap (just like a BOSS intake only for the smaller 2v ports). It ran great.

It's a fiberglass hatch I made when I built the rest of the body. Only recently have I fabricated the "ears" on the hinge side of the hatch so that I could re-install the hinges. No latch though, so the hatch will still be held down by two Dzeus fasteners.

Tom, I'll be at the chat site tonight at 2000 cst too. BTW, Hot Rod TV talked about the fiberglass methods this past week (I assume it was basically the same thing as in there publication).

I'd say 13K total, and that includes the new DOT wheels and tires (2.4k)

Be sure to click on desired album on bottom left of opening page to get the correct album.

I know this is a long link, but try it out, and be sure to get the entire address when you do. I would like some feedback to see if this will work (new site for my photos so I need to know). I know that the individual photo links work, but wanted to try this album link to see if it works. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&tio=0

FYI: The online photo hosting that I have been using (PhotoPoint) has been ofline going on 2 weeks now and I fear they may be out of business. All the previous links I've provided to you guys for these and other photos most likely will NOT work. I did very recently open an account with another hosting site (Fototime) and they appear to work well, but lack in some of the finer points that PhotoPoint had. Anyway, I'm in the process of uploading all the photos onto it now.

Tom, lots of stuff here. Perhaps we could agree on a time to go to chat and discuss it there.

A local boat building company here in town (out of business now) offered to make molds of any pieces I wanted for a fee. Never took them up on the offer though. So I would first check places like that.

I've seen them, but do not know if they are still in production or not. They don't appear to be an effecient design, but they will mount a 4V carb.

Correct, no need to remove the differential.

RacerX, please go the the chat.

The R180 is the "baby bear" of the three in both size and strength (the 180 refers to the ring gear diameter). The R200 is the "mama bear". It is a little larger, and a bit stronger. The stubs snap into the sides, vs the bolted on stubs of the R180. Also visually, the R200 has no external bearing carrier plates as does the R180. The mounting hole pattern between the R180 & R200 is the same. The R230 is the "papa bear" with again the larger ring gear. Visually, the R230 is bigger around, but shorter or stubbier (as many of us older members are becoming), and takes a different mounting system than the previous two diff do.

I've received several queries pointing toward some confusion on how this filler still allows the hatch to be functional. Being I don't have and "completed project" photos yet, here is a drawing of how the filler appears with hatch partially open. The filler tube part remains fixed with the fuel cell, whilst the hatch with it's attached Bullitt door can be lifted off the cap enclosure, and still have the cell and cap remain sealed.

Wanted to share the now almost finished gas door, cap, and filler tube install for my fuel cell. Here are a couple of "now" photos. The hatch is not steel but instead fiberglass with a Lexan window.

Wanted to share what I did this morning as far as my gas cap "door" for my fuel cell. It's the "Bullitt" Mustang door. Under the door will be the fuel tube with an Acura gas cap.

Nope, the hatch will be fully functional. The fuel tube and gas cap assembly will have a "box" at the cap location that will have a flange on the top of it that will mate up to a flange underneath the door (this also holds the door on). With a thin foam gasket between the two, I should be able to keep and air (exhaust gas) out. This way when I open the hatch (pulling the new fuel door up with it), the tube (about 12" long coming directly from the fuel cell) will remain in position (with the cap) to seal the tank.

Yeah, Photopoint appears to be out (has been for over a week now, and I don't know how to approach them about the issue. I'll email you a couple of pics.