blueovalz

I'd say any tranny that comes with the SBF would work. The old top-loader would be one I'd forget, but the T-5 is great, as would be a C4.

I've only seen the snap-ring versions. Sorry.

What Aaron says is true. This is something no one has done to date (as far as I know). I've got a 289 in my 240Z, but the shorter bonnet and other differences in the Z31 will be new ground.

I've never been good at this kind of thing, but I take a stab at it. To me, it sounds like you've got no air (or perhaps a minuscule amount) coming into the tank (vent is plugged or constricted) to replace the fuel that is being drawn out, thus creating a low pressure in the tank, which would slowly work against your pump until it gets to the point that no fuel can be drawn out any longer. You shut off the pump, and the small amount of air venting into your tank finally allows the pressure inside to get back to normal and thus the pump starts pumping again after a short wait. Just a shot in the dark. I would guess the bubbling sound may be air coming back into your tank back through the fuel line. I'd check to see if this happens with the gas cap off (lots of venting then), or at least do this again and see if a vacuum is in the tank when the pressure starts dropping off or goes to zero. Man, this is a tough question.

I've only had the sender in the cell for a couple of weeks now and have not gone through a tank of gas yet. In testing it appeared to be very accurate, and the sender is matched to an AutoMeter fuel level gauge (Ford type that I previously bought). There are several resistance profiles the manufacturer (RCI) uses on these tube type of senders (Ford, Chevy, and Mopar) that may come close to the map that Datsun used on their gauge. I purchased the sender from Summit.

Glad to see this happen (I've not got the issue as yet though, so don't go buying them all up )

Nice install. This would have been my choice of scoop using an OEM hood as well.

Here's a pic.

Let's see, we've got over 7000 members (according to "site statistics"), and I'm sure each has their own unique opinion one what looks good, so........

I've seen this set-up under a couple of 200SX's. They appeared to be identical to the 280ZX set-up all the way out.

I just recently installed a sender in my cell (ran out of gas for the umpteenth time). It was a very simple procedure using a tube type of sender (not a swing arm type). I cut a hole (about 1-3/4") with five 1/8" holes around the main hole for screws. It's kinda neat how they make these. It uses a magnet on a float that slides up and down the inside of the tube. The magnet affects a solid state PCB which runs the length of the tube, thus changing the impedence of the circuit. The gauge then takes one 12vdc+, one ground wire, and a (third) wire going to the sender. The sender receives this wire from the gauge, and then uses a second wire to ground.

No paint and a lot of primer. I love this time of year (everything is green)

Any pics?

This was just an observation. If indeed the brakes worked fine for a time after the Wilwoods were installed, then perhaps my comments are in error, but I feel strongly that these caliper's pistons are too small. Brake hydraulics are simply a fluid lever. Datsun designed a good working ratio with the hydraulics, and our modifications need to stay as close to this ratio as is practicable. Again, I do not recall the piston diameter of the OEM calipers, but believe they were about 2.125". The OEM MC was .875". This creates a ratio of .1695 when comparing piston AREA between the MC and the Caliper piston(s), or the MC/SC ratio. To arrive back to this ratio, you really should be using calipers that have 1.5" pistons (4 piston type), which is almost perfect with the OEM MC size of 7/8". Now on to your question about MC size. In order to maintain the OEM ratio with your Wilwood calipers (front brakes only in this study), you'd need a MC bore size of between 5/8" and 11/16". Your current ratio is about .304, which is about double my estimated OEM ratio. This means that the pistons at the caliper are moving toward the rotor at roughly twice the normal distance with each stroke of the brake pedal (again, based on the OEM sized MC and not your bigger one which makes this even worse). What this then "feels" like is a very firm pedal with much less stopping or clamping force at the rotor than the OEM feel would have. Much like using a too short a wrench in braking loose a nut. Not much leverage and a lot of resistance. Unfortunately this effects the rear brakes as well. Your current set-up biases the rear brakes more than normal, and with that said, you may find you will need a proportioning valve that will limit the pressure to the rear calipers being they are more "correct" in their size compared to the OEM requirements.

Can we assume the problems started when you put the Wilwoods on the front? The problem I believe is with the Wilwoods, and their small piston diameter. In effect you've got less than 2 inches square of piston area (using one side of the caliper as the reference here) in comparison to what came from the factory. I'm not sure but I believe the OEM calipers had a 2" or larger diameter piston (again, one side only), which means you've increased pedal pressure by at least a minumum of 70% (or decreased caliper pressure by the same amount). You've gone from more than 3" of piston area to less than 2" on your calipers. Now, to add insult to injury, you've also put a larger MC on the car as well, which exasperates the situation. This factors in another 11% increase (going from memory on this number) verses the OEM 7/8" MC. I went from the OEM MC to the 15/16" MC only after going to the larger 2.375" piston size calipers (again, as a reference using one side, which was equivalent to just over 4 inches square of piston area), which then just about neutralized the pedal softness of going to a larger caliper piston (the caliper piston size increase was about 12% in my case if I remember correctly). In your case you went the other way; to a larger MC and a smaller caliper piston (total piston area), which now decreases your leverage of clamping force on the rotor by quite a bit (in fact by a lot). I would have gone to a caliper with 1.5" pistons (which would have given you about 3.5 inches square of piston area on one side of the caliper), and left the OEM size MC in place, which would have been a much better, if not a great match.

I'm not absolutely sure about this, but the bumble bee (much larger than the typical honey bee) will more than likely pose no problem. Honey bees on the other hand can be a handful if bothered. Down here, it's Yellow Jackets, hornets, and wasps that cause problems, but the bees, especially the Bumble bee or Carpenter bee are rarely problems.

Yeah, the pictures were pretty good. V8Zed???? Not sure about this, but wasn't he the one that supplied pictures of this subject?

Using "diffuser" as the key word in the High Tech forum had about the best information on this subject, which hasn't been visited much since then. For some reason the pictures are not there.

I for one will make my small contibution to end this "weeniefication of America" one step at a time, beginning with my daughter. Last night she was "the victim" when the beast of discipline came knocking on her door for something she brought on herself. Of course, it was my fault for not allowing her to do what she wanted, but by the end of the night another skirmish was once again won for the cause of parents who believe their children should be accountable for their own actions. This is our job, is it not

Nice looking cap. I know what you mean about "appearing level". Many times in the course of making a modification one will find "level and plumb" does not appear to be such from a strictly visual perspective. The curves and shape of the car skew angles to give the illusion angles are not what they are. And many times, the viewpoint or position one is viewing the car from changes the angles as well. None-the-less, the cap looks good.

What was the length of time from the time you applied the base-coat until the time you applied the clear-coat?

These will work. I ran a similar set-up (the difference was my use of the turbo calipers instead of the NA calipers) on my street Z. A mounting bracket and some work to get the emergency cable (which was minor) to hook onto the caliper were all that was needed.

I've done this with formula car powered by a small motorcycle engine. One broke, but after I re-did the process again it (both) held up fine. but this was a 3/4" shaft on a light car with little torque. Add 2 thousand pounds, wide tires, and gobs of torque, and I would guess that this will not live long. The pipe surround will be a necessity regardless

Define "adverse". I don't think the effects would be adverse in a street car, but may penalize you in the ultimate handling situation.

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