blueovalz

I'd hazard a guess that you'll be about 1" offset here. Not ideal, but it shouldn't cause any bad problems. Depending on your camber adjustment, you may experience some slight steering feedback under braking on uneven pavement.

Great memories stirred up on this one. Back then one could go ride a bike or on roller skates (remember the keys) without doning helmet and pads (I don't think you could even buy them back then). A.D.D was something most of us probably had, but thought we were normal (whack!, "pay attention when I'm talking to you"), and delt with it. Swimming in the creek and seining for minnows was the greatest time of the summer (until you lost your black plastic rimmed glasses in the water). Getting a lottery number of 108 (this was high) for the draft and seeing the rare look of relief on my Dads face when he saw it. Flashing an SOS with my pen-light at the police helicopter 5 miles away, and having him come at you with the big spotlight in the middle of the night, and not getting arrested for a false report. Hearing "War Pigs" on the transister radio for the first time in High school and clueing in, "now this is music!"

I can't even come close to thinking how you felt the second you saw this, but dust it off and take it too the show. Everybody wants to see the car, and this won't amount to fly poop in pepper by this time next year. Sorry to see this......it's got to be frustrating.

Slotting the upper holes will work, but for only a small amount of adjustment if using all OEM upper spring parts. The spring retainer cup hits the unibody surround with longer slots. It's been a while but I think I was able to go about 3/8" at most before hitting a stop.

You shouldn't experience any issues with this set-up unless you've gotten a long ways off from a zero offset wheel (cannot ever remember if + is out or in) moved toward the outside.

I'm one that used this set-up fairly successfully (on a race car) with some added notes though. In my situation, the rear tires were 2" wider than the front, and I had more weight in the back as well. The proportioning valve finally balanced out by adjusting it 90% toward reducing rear pressure, but it all did finally come together. Once I put the car into street trim, I found I needed to go with a smaller piston on the rear calipers (kept the same rotor), and then later (thought not necessary) larger rotors in the front. I attribute these changes to some suspension changes, added weight to the front, and a change in tire and wheel sizes.

Not an answer here, but I've got to scratch my head on your hydraulic T/O bearing problems as well. The McLoed units appear to be well built, and the swivel leak problems should be fixed with the newer design. I've got the old style, and it eventually started leaking after many thousands of miles around the swivels. I instead replaced the O-rings in the swivels, and it was good as new again.

Thanks for the vid, but will be holding my tongue on this matter.

I guess this answers any questions about whether these pins will break before bendings. Now if we can get a picture of John's sledge-hammered toilet, we could have the beginnings of and interesting photoalbum that would raise the eyebrows of any Psychoanalyst watching these forums.

I still have yet to determine if what I've got is what you are asking about (Nismo SSS LSD carrier) being it is not a Quaiffe. I do know that the left and right sides are swapped on mine, which caused a bit of a ruckus in the garage the night I was putting my CV joint half shafts back into it after the LSD install. Ended up having to cut the brand new boots off, swapping the differential stubs from each side, and putting new boots on again.

I guess you showed it who's boss

I concur. This was the stuff I used to fill in the area between the rear fiberglass quarters and the OEM exterior sheetmetal. After it had set, I cut it, and sanded it to where it resembled the shape of a factory wheel well. Then I undercoated it. This was 10 years ago, and last year I saw that due to some slight amout of shinkage, some cracks or separation occured. I grabbed the black roofing repair tube (black gooie stuff) and filled in the cracks (matches the undercoating). This stuff really stiffens up the panels.

I don't have an L6 Z, so I couldn't answer that. A 3/8" offset would change the angle by about 1.2* (based on 18" joint-to-joint length).

Well it's about time you jumped in on this one Take care Ernie

This was a consideration I took as well, but after measuring the ~1" offset of the differential propeller shaft centerline from the transmission output shaft centerline, I decided not to move it any further toward the passenger side. The centerline of the two shafts (output shaft and the propeller shaft) are parallel, but with the added torque of the V8 onto the U-joints, I chose to leave things as they were, especially with such a short driveshaft.

Can't wait!

The tires in the picture are 315/35ZR17 on an 11" wheel

One thing I've heard to be true when viewing this question from the other side of the coin is that you shouldn't wait too long either. My understanding (again with only the products I'm familar with) is that you cannot wait too long to clear-coat either. beyond a couple of days I believe the basecoat is set and must then be scuffed up or sanded again prior to the clear-coat. So in essence you have a small time window to work with when following up the base coat with a clear coat.

I agree the dam does not appear to be positioned correctly, but still looks good. The first guestion that came to my mind happened when it was posted that this dam was for the later model Z that used the thicker, heavier bumper. Rationally speaking, I would have thought the extra height (or thickness) of the later bumpers would have required the dam to be dropped further down. But the bumper relief (between the headlight bucket, and lower panel) appears to be thin (to fit the early Z bumper). This makes me wonder, sense it was for the later model z (big bumper), why is this not wider or lower to allow for the bigger, thicker bumpers? It's been a long time since I've messed with the later Z front sheet metal, so pardon my confusion here. Secondly, I like the headlight modification. I've not seen or heard of this particular light, and I like the adapter plate idea. I am surprised the lower bulb (turn signal?) pigtail and socket do not interfer with the mounting bowl behind the headlight. Did you have to remove some material on the "bowl" to get this to work. Any pics of the back side of the light (removed from the car) would be appreciated.

The folks that sold you the paint should know, or at least have a tech sheet on it. My observations have been within 24 to 48 hours for the brand(s)I've seen.

Oops The thought occured to me, but then I just shrugged if off.

If it's the original grommet around the windshield, it will be unlikely that you'll get the glass out without breaking it unless you cut the outer lip of the gasket off (which then requires a new gasket (grommet) when you install the windshield. The old gasket's rubber gets less pliable with age to the point where the rubber is too rigid to allow removal of the windshield and still save the gasket.

Adding a note here about a severely lowered car. Take into consideration the tire height and back spacing when doing such modifications. The unibody reinforcement that rides over the tires (from front to back over the front tires) will cause problems on typical street set-ups that have a lot of compliance in the suspension. I don't know if Ted's Z has a tube frame, but if not, I'll bet a dollar to a dime that the unibody is nearly resting on top of the tires. Here is an example of what I speak of (and I bet mine is at least a couple of inches higher than Ted's Z):

Thanks John. Interesting information. The shaft length difference really became obvious when I had to swap the CV shafts from side to side when I put the LSD in, and found the long shaft no longer "fit" on the drivers side. I had to disassemble (again) the shafts and put the diff stub onto the opposite side (short) shaft to make it fit) I this not 2 3/16" of travel? Can you tell us why this is? Is it because of the binding issues? Now let's add insult to injury: If one uses camber plates, and draws the top of the strut inboard for more negative camber, guess what? Your 1/8" play starts to disappear.

45 lb/ft for these little bolts sounds a little high. I'm guessing these are no bigger than 8mm. I'd stay around 30 lb/ft. Your specs are correct for the grade of bolt, but I've never had one loosen up with the lighter figure.