luckygerman

Ahh yes thank you, I saw that black s30 in a youtube video with that g-nose and wide flares, that thing looks sexy. I'm getting ready to start on my project and I'm getting all these ideas, I want to build the best Z I can build, I think I'm getting obsessed lol

Does anyone have info how I can get my hands on a Jap. S30 front end?

hey thank you for this great info, that is just what i needed to restore my 240z

WOW, that is a nice engine, I thought I have seen it all. how much boost are you running on this big block?

Hey Dan, I'am so sorry that you had such an experience. If you need any tuning, engine rebuilding ect. One of my dear friend Tony Raimondo is located in Fayetteville NC and he is been operating at the same location for 31 years Called "Automotive Performance". They have a full Machine Shop. He has over 30 years experience building Race Engines everything from blown Hemi's to 3.1 datsun. I have known him personally for ten years and he is probably one of the honest human beings I know. He is also very affordable. Below is a 400c.i. sbc that he is getting ready for a local drag racer, suppose to put out 780hp all natural aspirated no nitrous. I just hate when I hear people getting ripped off and I have been too in the past and I'm sure glad to know my buddy Tony

SATA is the best in the business. they cost around 650.00 new, you might be able to get a used one on ebay for around 200-300. They are rebuildable and if you plan on painting more cars, it would be a good investment, cause you would have it for life. Also you will need some good inline Filters and regulators so you can control your PSI, very important. If this is a onetime deal, you could find a painter or body-shop and just pay them to spray your car, in a professional paint-booth. maybe would run you $300-400. But if you dont give a ♥♥♥♥ what it will look like then paint your car in the garage with a harbor freight gun.

Cometic was just an example,I was not aware they didn't make one for his application, they sure make it for everything else. my point was to use a Multi layered gasket over a non layerd.

yeah take continued colege courses at your comunity college, I went myself for over 5mos to learn pipe welding, it is so much fun. Mig welding is the easiest and Stick is the hardest. If you can write your name you can MIG weld

First I will remove the powertrain, then the bumpers and trim, basically take it appart to do some bodywork. I'm guessing once I get to that stage it will be 3mos from now. I probably be searching for a SR20DET on Ebay or will build me a 3.1 Stroker which was the original Idea.

Oh the House of Kolor stuff is not really worth the money unless you have a $15-20k paint job and then presuming that you trailer your car every where. As long as you use a Clearcoat with lots of UV protection you should be golden. Every Brand name like Sherwin or Glassur aka BASF have their cheap stuff and Hi-end product-Line. We use Southern Polyurethane for our clear, it cost $200 and it makes a sprayable 2gal, that stuff goes on like glass.

Hey Big Phil, I feel your pain but dont worry about the timeline it takes for your painter. I myself got into the classic car business about five years ago. Besides Maco, I must have been turned down by 10 body shops before I found a bodyman/Painter to even take on an All-over paint job. Body shops take a loss $$$ because while it takes them a month to perform a 3k paint-job they could have made 20k in Fender Benders all paid by insurances. I have to hear my painter bitch every time I get a car painted.

That is a very interesting thread. A Complete LS1 V8 weight 490lbs. The SR20DET complete wheight 365lbs. and Im sure if you messure the complete powertrain the marging gets bigger. 130lbs less at the nose of the car is quite a bit. But I never started this thread to diss anyone with a V8 or inline 6, I love it all, Heck if it was up to my wallet I would have one of each, in every color. To me, if I see a Z with a V8 Powertrain it just doesnt do anything for me. I have a 71 Chevelle with a BBC 496c.i. thats has all the power anyone could wish for but for this build i want to go the otherway.

That is a nice V6 Setup, what kinda power are you making with this? Is it an Automatic trans?

It sounds like something is out of balance, like your harmonic balancer or something near your bellhousing.I would take a Stethoscope, pull the metal piece off so that all you have is a hose and listen to the Oil Pan, valve train ect.

My Buddy who is an Engine builder and is building this N/A 780 hp Drag motor uses Brodix heads with Brass Valve guides, I'm sure there is a reason why they use Brass.

You could use a OEM gasket but remember that the OEM is old technology. I would Use a Multi-layerd Cometic/felpro Gasket especialy when your running on turbo. I would also spray them with some copper gasket sealer, they say that you wont need it but it makes for a better seal.

Hear are some Pics, Finally a proud owner

I remember reading this thread several mos ago and I got really inspired to buy myself a 240z for myself. I have restored many GM cars in the past, that is what we do at Vintagedreamcars.com. So maybe a couple of days after reading all off your thread I came Across the Z that I bought of Ebay, It is original a San Diego CA car and had been sitting in a garage since 1995. It was in no running condition but after 30min I got her running again, unfortunate all Fuel lines are rotten, paid 2k for a rust free Z other than a little on the rear hatch, having no Rust is half the Battle, less time and less money. I think you could appreciate the Color.

Well Formula one uses itty bitty N/A V8 with 2.5Liter displacement pushing 1000HP. Formula one used 4cyl turbo charged engines in the 70's. These SR20 engines make the same amount of torque at 6000rpm than a conventional V8 with half the weight. There is also no question when it comes to reliability, they have proven over the years to be very. and when it comes to Handling performance, why would an engine with half the size and the same power be of any sort of disatvantage, isn't that what every race enthusiast would want to achive?

I hear ya, well the other importand issue is weight to horsepower ratio and when i drive that thing around the corner I dont want my front-end to wander off. I pretty sure that you are limited with the L28 to 300hp +/- and of course I could turbuocharge it and so on but before I do all that you might as well take use of the lightweight 4banger. From the resarch I have done...with the sr20 the z car becomes a sort of mid-engine car, which is very cool. Diffrent strokes for diffrent folks. I have a 71 chevelle with a 496c.i. 600hp+, a 95merc E420 V8, 66bonneville with a389 v8, so using another V8 dosent get me motivated enough. i actually bought a 78 280z complete that I was going to part out and stroke out but who knows I might get me another Z to have both but it is just to easy to build a 4banger with 400-500hp that kinda gets my blood flowing. If you gus got my site you can see some of the cars we export. Vintagedreamcars.com it is German but you be able to figure it out. I'm new Here and this is my first 240z so I'm hear to hear all critics and advice i can get...Z Yaaaa

Well I never said a V8 couldn't be done and I sure I don't mean to diss anyone with a V8 conversion. I totally Love V8's and even considered an LS1 with a Carb. Totally Love the V10 btw. I actually own one of the biggest import and export business for classic cars in NC and all our cars are V8's. But what I want is 400HP at the wheels. What I like about the SR20DET, that it can be achieved with just 2 liters of displacement and with half the weight then anything out there. It is also very inexpensive, I mean I can pick up an entire power-train tranny and all for as little as $1500 bucks, I couldn't do that with an LS V8 because the Tranny is 2500 alone. I'm also in the middle of restoring 3 other cars so money can't all go in one car, not for now at least For me the SR20 Just makes the most sense.

I just bought a rust free 73 240z two mos ago and my good friend and engine builder Tony R. we have been discussing various engine options. The V8 is out of the question because being an unibody car your somewhat limited and i think it has been overdone, he has actually converted several himself in the 70's. So I was really turned on by an 3.1 stroker with some triple carbs but he said that the cylinder heads are under-valved and if you wanna make some really good power I should consider the sr20det which I never expect him to say because he is a totally old-school chevy guy that builds allot of the local drag racers engines. Right now he is building a n.a.632c.i. just to give you an idea. So I really respect his opinion. So SR20 it is and according to ebay there are several for sale for around $1600