Thumper

Bump. Anybody?

Sounds like you don't have a book on your z. It has what a leak down test is. In order to properly work on your z you need a manual. The injectors will click like a relay about 3 times a second.

Me, Myself, and I are saying 20+psi on stock bottom-end, stock head, stock manifolds is alot. This was what I was running, big-phil, and what this guy supposedly runs. No matter what kindof tuning if you don't flow air efficently there is a boost you can run.

Really i've never run it that way. I've figured that you use up the fuel so not as much returns to the tank. But now that I think of it (in theory) the larger fuel line should continusey (sp) flow more fuel than the return line can handle so fuel presssure will keep going up. But i've never had this problem. And I know I've read to run a 3/8ths feed and a 5/16ths return from people on here. Any other thoughts about this? Sorry to kindof hijack the thread.

Sounds like an injector problem. Check that all six are firing when cranking. Get someone to turn over the motor will you listen to the injector with a stethoscope (or long screwdriver) and see if they fire. If they don't then check the connections and then do a leak down test. Also you might want to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors fire to make sure you have a spray pattern. You might want to check spark just to make sure as well though. Pull the spark plugs see if wet (rich, black) dry (lean, white). Good Luck

FYI. I was just reading up on spark plugs again and found out what the heck "K" means in bkr6es-11. It means a different height of the plug and a 5/8 hex not a 13/16. At first I thought it was for a projected tip but misread something thus the title of the topic. So you really shouldn't order a bkr6es-11 over a br6es-11 since the spark plug boot won't have as much to grip and you will have to switch spark plug sockets. So don't do my mistake. Funny thing is I have been running bkr6es for over 4 years. Not a big thing but next spark plug change I'll switch back. FYI Also FYI if you plan to run less than .040 gap do not run the -11. This is for a extended gap of .040 more. But if you want to debate project plugs vs non-projected you can. Only difference I've read is that it adds 4 degrees of timing since it starts the combustion earlier. So a bpr6es running 16 degrees is like a br6es running 20 degrees.

Also another way of keeping the pressure more consistent would be running higher fuel pressure. You could run up 45-50 since its n/a. I was running 40 base with 23lbs of boost ontop so about 70psi at full throttle (remember 7 for vacuum so actually 47 at idle with no vacuum) I just looked at your diagram more closely yeah speeder is correct a 2nd FPR would probably be in order. And I would upgrade to a 3/8" supply line. Then run the stock 5/16" supply line as your return line. Thats what most turbo guys do.

The hy should handle it fine with headwork and cam. I don't think without it you can get 400wrhp on any l28 turbo. If you are talking 400 crank hp then yeah I did it and I think if Big-phil turns up his boost enough he has it as well. The hx flows better but you need a spacer to run it and it will spool ALOT slower.

You are right that its better to have a fast car and reliable. But I still believe that car has had some thought and alot of hard work gone into it to make it into the 10's. I give him credit. Would I do it not anymore. I once bought a $800 280zx turbo stripped it out put about $1000 into and it ran mid 12's. It was called the ghetto beast and this guys car looks like angelina jolie compared to it. Why did I do it? So that I could have as fastest car I could, for cheapest I could, without any thought to anything else. It was a fun car to work on. I probably put 2 weeks of solid work into it. Am I proud heck yeah I had a consistent mid 12 car for $2000. Was it pretty, safe, or anything else hell no.

I just noticed in the video it never showed the road. You don't know if he was on a dyno or even just in the air. So I don't think they will be able to prove he was driving it on the road. P.S. I found it by searching "lambo 219"

Yepo he shifted at 7700rpms and redline looks to be around 8200.

It doesn't matter if you are going to get caught. Which is quite easy when you are driving a bright colored limited model car. Even in datsun doing 200mph (with out actually flying somehow) they can get a description of the car and find you later and if you can't prove you were somewhere else you will be fined or jailed. Its like the red light camera guilty untill proven innocent. My mentality is that if you speed (25+ speed limit) then you should be prepared to either kill someone, kill yourself, ruin someones life, or go to jail. If you aren't ready to accept the consequences of your actions you shouldn't do it. I myself have seen 150+ on public roads so i'm not preaching about something I don't do myself. I do push the limit but I am always doing it in the safest manner (althought no speeding is safe) and I'm ready for the aftermath of my actions. Taking the flame suit off bring it on:flamedevi Remember opinions are like assholes, everybody has one

I have also ran 440cc injectors on the stock ecu by playing with the afm. It can be done but it will run crappy off boost. But it will run the correctish a/f ration at full boost. So nothing isn't possible on a budget. You don't need alot of money to go fast. You just need it to be reliable.

I ran 23 lbs on my z for awhile and when I tore apart the block only minimal detonation damage. And I believe that happened when my piston skirts came off due to intercooler in early in the build. Then again thats with a holset. I also ran 21 psi on my stock t3 with stock ecu for awhile on the same motor in my ghetto beast. Made 280wrhp and 404lb-tq. LOL

I never thought about that. So I believe a 1mm head gasket is 2-3 layers so a 2mm just had twice the layers. So if one wanted you could buy one 2mm headgasket and then split it. That doesn't make sense. What about movement, lips, sealing surfaces. I don't think it could be that easy, could it?

Now that seems logical. Sure it sounds cool like helix said but Janaka sounds logical so I like his explanation better. Thanks

BTW make sure they are indidy bitty injectors or you won't be able to get it idleto idle but you knew that so i'm just doing comentary for the audience. Good luck Olie!

Yeah I know about the hundreths, thousandths, ten-thousandths, hundred thousandths, etc... but other than SOUNDING cool why do we say 20 thousandths instead of 2 hundreths. LOL

I'll be building up another l28 soon and it looks like the only 1mm metal headgasket available is twice as expensive as the 2mm one. So since i'm shaving the head anyway to make it flat I was thinking I could run a 2mm head gasket and shave the head .040" which is 1mm to make it be like I was running a 1mm head gasket. The only problem I can see is combustion chamber and quench area being affected. So do you think there is enough sidewall area to shave .040" without touching the chamber or should I only do .020" to be safe. .020" will equal 7.25:1 so its not terrible but I like 7.52:1 more. Thanks P.S. Why is it called .020" and not .02"? LOL

Also check your oil dipstick. If its milky color than possible blown headgasket. If its good oil color than most likely just stuff burning off. Also check to make sure your thermostat housing isn't leaking.