Thumper

I use Hayden aftermarket fans. You can get them from Oreilly Auto Parts for $50 (10") $60 (16"). I've run two 10"s on all my z's and never have overheating problems even with a/c and houston weather on my 280zx. While you are there for $30 you can pick up an adjustable fan control. IT works great and you won't have your fans on all the time.

LOL wait its a plane, no its a z. No its a plane no its a z....

Olie, Are you running stock injectors? If so i'm going to steal your tune this wknd to get my car running.

Warren is his name and mustang taillights are his game... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104259&highlight=taillights http://www.freewebs.com/customlock/

Also some high performance oil pumps are just a 280zxt auto oil pump. The auto oil pumps i've been told move more oil. I ran this in my last z with shimmed springs.

Also must drifters around here run a welded diff not a lsd. You will want to run atleast equal front and rear tires for control. Drifting is more about slipping balance than gripping balance. So when you are slipping and going sideways you want your rear tires to be able to grip just as much as your front tires so usually rear tires are larger because of this. But you need power to do this. Atleast that is what i've learned from some 240sx'ers.

The biggest problem further downstream is that it takes longer to warm the o2 sensor up to an operating temp. Even a heated oxygen sensor needs to be warmed up by the exhaust. 2-3' might be a problem 1-2' prob not worth the time to relocate. IMHO Good luck

For a completely perfect vehicle maybe but definetly not that one. It has dings, e-brake does seem to work (rock) and thats only looking at it for 5 seconds. I have noticed nice z's selling for more than I thought but I just bought mine for $500 so you can get a nice one for cheap.

I like to keep the air/fuel ratio right at 12.5:1- 13:1 depending on rpms. Then adjust timing untill you make best power. Which is usually 2-3 degrees before you start detonating. So as long as you know your a/f ratios I would slowly adjust timing untill onset of detonation in a heavy load situation (4th gear if its safe) and then back it off 2-3 degrees. But first you need to get the afr's right. Adding more fuel will cool off the cylinders alittle bit but mostly all it does is waste gas and retard the combustion. So its like you are retarding the timing. Remember the best timing map is not flat.

LOL thats why top floor is best. Plus you get a small work out going up and down the stairs.

Yeah I hated using my jigsaw/cut-off wheel so I started to use a regular skill saw with a metal cutting blade. It helped make the lines alot straighter and easier to weld. Also I was able to cut it alot faster. Another option would be take it to any muffler shop and they should be able to cut all you want for $10. Probably the same cost of buying blades but then you will need to know where to cut.

It could also be a dead spot in the afm. Check its voltage while you move the flap. A manual sould tell you what wires maybe atlantic.

If you have a stand alone ecu then I would get a lc-1 because it will hook directly up to it and help you tune. If not then I always run a lm-1 also. Alittle more than some of the competition but well worth it. Great product with great capabilities.

Great looking car very fair price but... Who actually likes that dash. I had one in my ghetto beast for a week then I tore it out. Its very hard to tell 5krpms from 6krpms yet alone 6k-6.3k

Umm yeah I didn't know about the white either. Thanks for the info.

I saw another set of those for sale for $600 if I remember correctly. So if it stays at that price and he doesn't charge too much to ship overseas then it should be a good deal. Not my taste on wheels but to each his own.

Not bad. Remember to put the o2 sensor 6-12" away. Not too close not to far:flamedevi Nice shoe:mrgreen:

Jerry, I ran the holset hy35w. Its was off of a newer cummings diesel. I believe I was the first to run it but stole the idea from someone else. Now quite a few people run it. 4cyl mustangs, 4cyl volvo's, and a few sbc's run them also. There should a few good threads out there on its specs and application.

FYI. This is my first time of hearing of something like this so its a not a common occurence. Ironic thing is on the c5 vettes they had LOTS of problems with this.

300whrp is very hard with the t3. Maybe with a cam and head work yes but other than that no the t3 just doesn't flow enough. 300 crank hp should be doable. I dynoed 280whrp and 400lb-tq with my t3 at 21psi (basically a flame thrower at that point)

But in your backyard you are more likely to kill yourself than anyone else. Opposite when you are on the street.

WOW! GLAD YOU ARE OK! Check your pants because I would have pissed AND shitted myself. Umm you are a running turbo maybe your engine torqued and the turbo or something got jamed in the steering lingage. Check to make sure everything is tight. WOW. Be safe.

LOL I guess he really does know you then huh?

Sounds like you ran out of gas. Or had water in the gas tank from sitting. Good luck

Yes that is high but it wouldn't cause a no start. As Braap said it sounds like a stuck or faulty injector. Another thing it could be is check to make sure you have 12v's while cranking. That's not likely the problem since you didn't change the feed wires but its a simple check to make sure.