Thumper

I wish. I thought it was an exhaust rattle so I took it to my friends shop had it up on the lift and put my ear near the tranny. It is coming from the tranny. Thanks though.

That sounds like the countershaft bearing. The main not backs off. But the tailtale sign i've read is the rattle at idle. And mine doesn't rattle at idle.

It also makes the noise when you free-rev it in neutral. So its not gear related. Also it doesn't matter if clutch is in or out. Thanks

I have the early 5-spd tranny. While i'm slowing down in gear or sometimes when cruising lightely I get a rattle from the transmission. It's not there under load or at idle. I believe it is the input shaft bearing but not sure. Also sometimes it will go away when very warm but its been there constant the last few days. It has gotten worse since I first heard it but it seems to have plateud at this intensity. What do you guys think? If it is the bearing what kind of job is it to replace. I've done a input shaft seal before but that just involved removing the cover. I think all you need is c-clip plies and you pull the bearing out but not sure if you have to do it from inside the tranny or outside. I might just upgrade to the zx tranny instead. Thanks

Sounds like fusible links. Replace them with a newer fuse block or just redo the old ones. Make sure you get the correct amperage wire though.

If it just stops running or doesn't start at all look at your fusible links over by the battery. If it runs bad/shoots black smoke out your tailpipe then check the connection on the temp sensor.

LOL and its a completely different person.

Also most fuel pressure guages are in accurate. As long as you get a 7-8psi difference between vaccum and no vacuum then your fpr is working correctly. So I would look into other things that is causing you to run lean. You did get a new TURBO fuel pump correct? Turbos flow more than regular.

Ok give this man a cookie. So just to put my mind at ease I turned off map based accel and it went away. Put it back on map based and it came back. So I bumped up the dead spot to 20 from 10 kpa and it went away again. The weird thing is my map sensor was never reading anything more than 1-2 kpa difference no where near my 10kpa cutoff. But after looking at my datalogs I did indeed see the stupid accel kicking in. Well I now have a very good grounding system and a well tuned car so... Thanks

I'm running map based acc enrichment and with a 10 kpa dead. So no dice their. Thanks though. BTW it does it all rpms and all loads. But not exactly the same jump in pulse. It jumps more at high rpms. And the grounds were not the problem.

I blew out my stock turbo head gasket at 18psi then replaced it with a metal headgasket. Usually a blown headgasket is from detonation but it can also be from head lifting and being pushed out. A metal resists this alot better. With the same tune as the 18psi blow-out I was able to run 23psi no problem (except with the trannies)

Thanks tried that and no go for some reason. I also did it on my 260z. But it doesn't seem to work on the 280z... But thats later first pulse jump.

I finished megasquirting my n/a l28. I'm running a 280zxt distributor, msd 6a, stock resistors, stock fuel rail and injectors. The car runs very good except light throttle and idle where the a/f ratios will jump back and forth and idle flucuates alittle bit. My gauges tell me my injector pulse will be 4.2 ms at idle then jump up to 5.2 then back to 4.2 I have made all my cells in my ve table around the idle the same percentage. The tach in megatune moves about 100rpms back and forth but the car doesn't feel like its missing that much. I don't have an aftermarket tach to verify and I haven't hooked up my stock tach yet. The only things I've come up with yet is a loose signal from the distributor (bad distributor, bad resistor, or bad power wire to distributor) or a grounding problem. I will be adding a few more grounds tonight in hope of seeing if this fixes it. Right now I have a ground from battery to starter bolt. Then I have all of ms and my sensors grounded on my intake manifold. So i'm going to add another ground inline of ms directly to the battery and add a ground from the battery to the frame tonight. Any other ideas? Thanks Also the voltage in megatune reads 13.6-13.8 which corresponds to what I get out of the alternator.

Another Z taken by rust. Oh well. Good luck on finding another one.

What type of gasket are you running? Head bolts?

Sounds like you are using a narrowband to tune. A narrowband is only accurate for 14.7 +or- 0.5 I would highly recommend a wideband asap. But with what people have said sounds like its a good start.

You will need a relay. The relay should get its power from the battery. Also find out what fuel pressure your carbs need. And get the correct fuel pump and pressure regulator.

Yes it would raise fuel pressure if the filter is more restrictive than the fuel pressure regulator. Take it out and find out.

White smoke is usually burning coolant. Check your head gasket. Check oil if milky etc...

It could also be your coolant temp sensor. If it doesn't read it thinks its -40 out and gives it alot of fuel. Here are alot good links on the z good luck. Oh BTW get a manual. http://www.msu.edu/~levesqu6/links.htm

What is your a/f ration doing? Also I usually run my injectors alternating not simulataneous. By the way you have your settings you are running a flyback board correct?

Nah doesn't look worth it to me.... Umm can I have the contact info J/K With a non-rusted body and minor mechanical work its worth it. Heck if its in good enough shape I know someone who will buy it from YOU right now for $1500 thats all he's got...

LOL yeah.

You physically can drive the car around. I would recommend you feel how hard it is to stop FAST with a brake booster. Its not something for a DD IMO. You can accomplish this by driving down the road making sure no one is around you and turning off the car. Make sure you don't turn the key to lock and lock the steering wheel. Then pump the brakes alittle to get the vacuum out. Then try to stop fast. This is how it will be without a brake booster. Good luck.

You can get it from Nissan. FYI you should post this in the for sale/wanted area. Also if you just need to drive your car a short distance and you don't mind catching your car on fire you can always jump the connectors. But if your relay burned out for a reason then you will cause a fire. Good luck.