preith

I have this exact same set up on my '73 with 280 struts. The wheels are 15x7's. I'm very happy with the amount of suspension travel and the ride height is nice and low. The coil overs are Ground Control. Even with the 280 struts, I went off GC's 240 perch measurements, and it came out perfect. With the coil overs in the middle, there's still enough room for a larger diameter wheel. Even if you have to run bump steer spacers, what's the big deal? Phil

Why not just stick with the E88 head?

Longer screws won't help. The problem is it's very difficult to slide the assembly back (towards the rear of the car) far enough to line up with the holes.

I had the same problem when installing the weather stripping kit from VB. It was a real bear. My memories a bit hazy, but I beleive I lubricated it with vaseline, both when I put the glass back in the frame, and when installing the frame on the car. I started a bottom bolt, and used a visegrips to hold the top in. The driver's side was much easier than the pass. Phil

I agree, it is insane, but that's what Steve at Nissan Motorsports told me. I beleive there is some truth to his statement. But since then I've talked to others who have run this setup, and have told me the contrary as well. I beleive the root of my problem was not enough torque on the head bolts. Do you use ARP studs, and what torque do you run them at? Phil

There was a pretty good thread on zdriver on this: http://zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5692&highlight=oring I want to stress that technically there are two different o-ring setups. The one that freakypainter mentioned, and the other which is commonly refered to as "fire-rings" These are the larger compresable stainless rings which are exposed to the cylinder, hence "fire-ring". I'll leave it at that, the thread tells the rest. Phil

Any HKS part# or vendor for that...had difficulty finding it on HKS's page.

I think we might be getting a little ahead of ourselves. I agree with TimZ, its most likely cam timing, meaning its off a tooth. A friend of mine had the same symptoms on his Z, and this turned out to be the case. Technically the L24 rod is not a direct bolt-in. As DAW eluded to earlier, you will have to mill the pistons in order to compensate for the additional height. Also like DAW said, go with flat tops before you mill the head. Phil

Thanks everyone for the input. As I stated at the start, I plan on running soloI, and not II, even though initially I'll run a few SCCA soloII events in AP. Even if this is not allowed, I don't think run into any problems since I'll most likely be the only one. 8) The local club (Midwest Council) which holds the soloI events bases their class structure on a point system. It takes very little to accumulate enough points earn a "race" classification, in which case "the gloves are off" and pretty much anything goes. A BSP car would be put in the race class as well. Phil

Dave at Arizona Z sells a pretty sweet intake manifold. Currently he doesn't have any available, but hopes to have them in the spring. I like the center inlet, which leads me to believe there's a more consistent intake to all the cylinders.

On my '77 I swapped out the fuel rail with a larger OD one from an '81 turbo. This did not have any fuel pipe for the cold start valve. I just tapped a pipe plug in place of it. The car was drivin until the first snowfall in November, in Wisconsin, without any difficulties that I can remember. I'm sure it's written somewhere, but I suspect the valve isn't really needed until colder temps, maybe below 20 degrees? Phil

Thanks Terry, I searched some more and found some of your posts stating similarly. I was thinking along the rigitiy lines as well. I've been contemplating moving the motor back. In which case I'll fab it to accept the motor mount arms without any additional pieces, but then there's no turning back either! To answer Zcarsmakemyheadhurt's question or statement, the cam a Schneider .560/300. I imagine it'll be pretty rough. Phil

Did a search on this, but not much came up. Any of you experiment with solid motor mounts? I plan on using these on my solo1 car, and already have a pair made, but just wondering what I'm in for... Phil

On kinda the same subject, at Road America's Brian Redman Challange, there was a Cobra kit car with a Ferrari V12. It was dubbed the Cobrarri. Seems a bit sacrilegious to me.

Terry, perhaps you can shed some light on how it is in heavy traffic...if you have in fact experienced this? On a side note, I have to say I loved the Zcar Magazine article on your car. This probably has been covered already, but why did you decide to make it into a street car? Have you had any desire to build a tube frame car? Phil

I beleive Trans Am cars have been using the same basic design as Terry's for quite a while as well.

On my '77 I had a similar problem. I removed all the AC, and sure enough the heater wouldn't work. There is a vacuum operated valve right a the firewall which would shut off the heat when the AC was turned on. This would fail-safe to closed when without vacuum.

Man, I have got to get a digital camera! The Accusump is a 2 qt. unit. As far as installation, I just bolted it through the floor using the provided clamps, with backing plates the other side. It has not been plumbed up yet. It was a bit tight with space. I used a rather tight elbow (male/female 1/2" pipe) to make it work. Phil

If your looking for suspension setup, I can't help you there. I have yet to drive the car. Any specs I have are IT and A-prepared autocross setups which other's have used. Phil

I plan on solo1 racing the car for at least a year to two, and then Vintage, but I'm not sure how eligible it will be, L28, DIS, 4 wheel discs, etc. I guess I'm a little paranoid. After seeing a 924/944 with a carbon fiber intake at the VSCDA (BRIC) race, maybe I shouldn't be. I think as long as I stay away from SVRA I should be ok. The engine is an L28 w/L24 rods, .040 over, JE pistons approx. 13:1 comp., schneider cam .560/300, and Mikuni 44's on a TWM manifold. N42 head with some valve unshrouding and portch matching. I have yet to dyno it...hoping for somewhere close 300. Also on the car is a Tilton 7 1/4" dual disc. This pretty much sealed it's fate as a race car. No clutch slipping! For anyone else who want's to do this, good luck! Tilton stopped making the flywheel in '95, and the rest is another big discussion. We could start up another thread on this if anyone's interested? I'm really having a hard time thinking of any other "trick" stuff. When I look at the car, I think of it as mostly the same as what everyone else has done already. I'm just the copycat. Phil

Yes the rear control arms are Dave's, as well as the front. I'm very happy with them. I feel the rears are the best ones I've seen yet. He's revised them with triangulation and the rod end sharing the swaybar link is adjustable. My trick door handles are actually the arms off of household plumbing valves, ha! I just welded them to the arm on the latch which the interior handles originally terminated to. I also cut off the locking assembly entirely. They're kind of a pain to reach, but they'll only be used when the windows are in during transport on the trailer. I wish I had a digital camera. This would be much simpler! Any pics of your car, links? Phil

I've put on 3 sets on two different cars now, and none of them have ever been easy. All the ones I've gotten were from MSA, but I'm pretty sure the ones VB sells are the same manufaturer. I used a cutting wheel on a grinder and just kept taking a little off here and there until they fit. The ones Nissan Motorsport used to sell (with the chrome trim ring) were probably a little more forgiving, but I never liked the that ring.

Here's a link to my gallery on zdriver.com. It's a little further along, than in the pics, but not by much. Thanks for all the compliments. It looks better in the pics than in person. But not too shabby for my first paint job. http://zdriver.com/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=3088&cat=500&thumb=1 Phil

I realize this is getting off the subject, but I'll answer anyways. Yep, I forget the model, but they're your typical run of the mill Panasports, 15x7's. Not the "racing only" lightweights though.

I too am planning on using a 10si alternator. I did some studying up on the one wire. It sounds so good, but there is a drawback. It is setup to turn on at a certain RPM, where as the traditional ignition operated is on from the word go. What worried me is they were claiming it would kick on at something like 2K or 2500 rpm's. If your running any type of underdrive pulley, it would, of course kick on later.