preith

There was decent thread on this a little while back: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91594 I can speak from experience, a single 4" with extra discs will be waaaay too loud.

Not sure what auxilary meant by clutch box? The auto's and manuals use the same upper pedal box, only the pedal itself with the hardware is needed. Shaves some time off if you get it from a parts car or something. Also, the 240 assemblies are different than the 280 in size, you must get one from a 240, maybe and early 260, but not sure. You'll also need the manual version brake pedal. A "run of the mill" metric double inverted flare brake line, of the correct length, will work for the clutch line. There are the little things too: - The clutch pedal stop, ended up fabricating mine. - The bracket on the frame rail for the clutch hose off the trans. - the plate, spot welded in the shifter opening, which has to be removed.

IMO, on a race car, it's almost a necessity to keep them pop-riveted on, and not blended in. The chances of an off track excursion are pretty good, and it only makes sense from a practicality standpoint.

I hate to bash Smoothline, but I was not happy at all with their product. I bought a pair of headlight buckets, and their rear spoiler, which is basically a BRE but a little taller (around 6"). The headlight buckets were absolutely horrible. I suppose I could have sent them back, but stupid me I painted before fitting (was in a bit of a time crunch) There was no way the headlights were going to fit, period. The openings were smaller in diameter, and there wasn't as much material between the top of the buck and the fender side (in other words too short) On top of that they did not conform to the fender, and when I tried to bend them out a bit and run a screw in from the inside of the fender, the tabs busted off. They were just aluminum tabs that were hotglued or something to the piece. I did manage to use the spoiler, but not without alot of cussing and modifying. For mounting provisions, it was the same thing, two strips of aluminum glued to the inside with a kind of flexible silicone or something. Needless to say I did not trust them, and they were too easily removed. Luckily there was a pretty nice lip on the front that I ended up using to pop rivit it on, and for the back I bend up some 90 degree pieces, first rivited them to the tailgate, and then to the backside of the spoiler. The back also did not confrom to the curve of the tailgate, which I did correct with the mounting. Before I could even do that, it took about 4-6 hours of slowly grinding away parts of it, untill it fit, mainly on the sides where it hung over. Oh, his turn around time was a good two months too.

I wish I had a digital camera, but I used these latches, 2nd pic down on left: http://s2.pegasusautoracing.com/086.pdf I then welded some tabs perpendicular (basically a T tab) on the top and bottom of the backing plate to hook the latches in on one side, and hold the box centered on the backing plate on the other. I bent the box up on a brake, and simply bent the edge over 90 degrees, so about 1/2" in parralel with the backing plate.

Looking good Mat. No place better to outcorner and accelerate a street car than solo1 with Midwest Council. The infield road course at The Milwaukee Mile has recently been repaved. http://www.milwaukeemile.com The first and only event for Council is on May 14-15th. Some members had a chance to drive it a few weeks ago, there review was something like "very fast and unforgiving", not exactly inviting. The next solo1 event isn't until July 23rd at Blackhawk Farms http://www.blackhawkfarms.com Phil

IMHO, a trap door oil pan on a wet sump is a must, but I'm not familiar with what's out there for the VG30's. For the L6's, the Nissan Comp pan is better than the cast aluminum one that's out there, higher oil capicity and crank scrapers. I also have an Accusump, 2 qt version which fit real good in front of the passenger seat on my S30. I really can't tell you how good it works since I've never run the car without it, just extra insurance.

I just made one piece for the entire width of all three carbs, sandwiched in between the air horns. At least on my Mikuni's there was no need for additional clearance.

Not the best pic, but I was trying to get the air filter in front too. I just bent mine out of 6061 .040 aluminum. The backing plate is 1/8". I had a K&N backing plate which I used as a pattern. Just hole sawed the inlets and fine tuned with a die grinder. You could probably get away with just bending up more of a box shape than mine, but I needed the clearance below the bracing. http://zdriver.com/gallery/data/500/30883006094-R1-035-16-med.jpg

Thankfully I have a DIS now, but on my last car I searched in vain for someone who sold different distributor springs (recurving), which had less advance at idle and more later, maybe more so than 35 degrees as well. EDIT: I guess I could have searched first: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=76632&highlight=distributor+recurving

I have an L28/N42 .040 over, JE domed w/7.5 cc's displacement, unshrouded valves, chambers 45.5cc's, which calculates to just under 12:1. I was told once it's around 14:1, or a very aggressive dome, the flame pattern becomes very poor.

I recieved a "Sneek Peek" preview with my latest issue of Wintage Motorsport. There will be an S30 car this year.

FYI, there are some people out there that do consider them to be "cheap".

True, the my Haulmark (Thrifty-baseline model) isn't the best, but I'm happy with it. I guess there's a few other manufactures that use a full tube frame construction instead of the C channel type of most, including the Haulmarks. Mine does have 4 trailer brakes on torsion axles, rides pretty good. I believe the floor is 3/4 on 16" centers.

I just bought a new 20' Haulmark direct from the factory, for $4950, last August. There was an auction on ebay for one, out of Ohio, but they also mentioned they could arrange one for pick-up. The place was Hill Equipment, PM or email me if you would like additional contact info, I'll see if I can dig it up. Even though your 1500 is rated for 7500#, I would be leary about pulling with it.

Found another one. Who else thinks $250 for an open 3.54 turbo diff is too much? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=7944364274&rd=1

I made some offset ones which moved the motor back 2", and I'm real happy with them. Vibration is not bad at all, but I wonder how much the internal balancing helps with that. Here's a pic of the trans mount too.

http://zhome.com/History/Electramotive/DevTrubo.htm

The only class would SPO (Super Production over 2.5 L). It is regional and the GCR describes it as "cars which exceed the preparation limitations of the applicable Production or GT Specifications but which meet the general regulations of Section 17 of the GCR for GT category cars." In other words "Run What You Brung" In Production you can have bars penetrating the firewall, but of course it has to keep the original engine.

GT2 is a bit misleading in for the most part they're really siloutte cars with similar chassis (tube frame) and body made to look like the real deal. The white/blue 300ZX is actually L28 powered, and I beleive the red/yellow 350Z is VG30 powered, and that's the same chassis he was using bodied as a 300ZX a few years back. However there were two actual S30 cars running in the back, they got lapped by the leader about half way into it. Now Eproduction is a little more of the real deal. The rules require an actual production shell. Also, eprod z is basically a hopped up IT car with more stuctural supports and 12:1 compression. Too bad IT cars aren't at the runoffs as well. I never understood that philosophy.

Believe it or not, the majority of tube frame cars in the SCCA are solid axle. I think the main reason is in GT2 (which this may have started out as) there is a weight penalty for IRS.