preith

I don't have the link, but just the other day there was a woman selling a used, positive result, pregnancy test.

I've been buying from Johnny's Petro in Muskego, last time about a month ago, it was $3.96 per gallon. At Road America it's $4.50.

Did you guys check out his feedback/auction history?

GT2 280Z (280YZ body) full tube frame, dual a-arms on all 4 corners, 1800 lb total weight.

It's been my experience that a hammer and dolly will never really get the entire dent out, maybe something like 99% of it. All the publications I read reflected this as well, and they would normally finish it off with a file. If they're real shallow dents like I had, I just cant see it working. I've seen many professionals use the same bondo, on roofs too. But you know how it is, they just want it out asap!

I also have a 240 adjustable front mounted bar (three hole link), but it did not fit on my 280. The 280 mounts are further front than the 240's, and this bar has a bend in it, similar to the front, to clear the diff. Just adding fuel to the fire.

I had the same problem, and had good results with real watery/thin bondo I bought the local autobody supply store. Forgive me, the name escapes me, but there are a few different manufactures out there. Anyway, the stuff sands awesome, kinda inbetween a glazing putty and bondo. You can lay nice thin coats on.

Thanks much, I emailed him, and I'll post any results.

I did find some dated stuff in a search, but nothing real current. I just cannot bring myself to spend $230 a piece for these. Does anyone have a magic supplier who sells them for under $200 a piece? I'm sure I'll hear about other manufacturers which can produce them cheaper, but I'd like to stick with Carrillo's.

If you build it like Nissan Motorsport pan...they will come.

I'm kind of leary about using rod ends for this application. Sure, if your builing a part for the masses it's great to have some adjustability, but for a custom one off for your car? In theory, the strut towers would remain at a constant distance, but they could both be pivoting in parallel? Just thought I'd throw it out there.

Purely just day dreaming, but I had thoughts of building a Festiva Shogun type of car, but with the Maxima drivetrain and a turbo motor in the back. Basically any small econobox, like the Festiva, would suffice. I would think that the Maxima's drivetrain might not be up to the task, but would be in a much lighter car.

It seems most guys I've seen who have Ground Control's Advance Design shocks are happy with them. What's the general consensus here?

I used carb cleaner on my '73, on the entire underbody, and it worked awesome. First I'd use a heat gun and putty knife to get most of it, and then finish up with carb cleaner. For the most part it was on the factory etching primer, but I did use it on some parts of the engine bay as well. The only time I've run into problems is when there's bomb spray on it, and not the hardended factory stuff.

IMHO I wouldn't think of going anything larger than the 89mm bore for the KA24 pistons. I've heard that even this can stress the block a bit. It just seems like sleeves in an already stout cast iron block is taking a step back. Put your energies elsewhere if your looking for that killer street engine.

I've heard from a few racers that the factory Nissan u-joints hold up better than the Spicer ones.

I'm a bit confused. Did some roaming on their website and the only competition tires I saw were the V700 ECSTA, Victoracer, and the V710's. Surprisingly the V710's were recently discontinued. That's kind of a blow, the ECSTA's were already lagging behind the Hoosiers.

Having owned nothing but early Z's, I've never dealt with power steering, but almost wonder if there would be a way to adapt aeroquip lines to it?

I recently did this conversion to my 240. The white wire on the top of the alt. goes to a warning lamp on the dash when it's no longer putting out any voltage. I didn't bother with it since I'm using an autometer guage, but you could hook it up to the stock gauge. I beleive Craig covers this on his page. The red one you need to provide power to. This one "energizes" the charging circuit, effectively turning it on. All you need is a line which provides power with the ignition switch on. This brings up an interesting question. Has anyone jumped this right to the output on the alt? This would supply power continuosly of course, but will it drain the batterey? As for trying to use the stock wiring from the regulator, can't help you out there, just did mine from scratch. I tried this as well, and was not happy with the lack of support. I ended up buying the bracket. I could have made my own too, but it was a time saver. With the bracket it was much, much better. BTW, I easily found a few pages off a Google search which listed all of the connections and requirments.

I bought Dave's control arms (both front and rear) a few years ago, and am very pleased with them. As he said, the rears are "on the car" adjustable. IMHO, the rears are still the best design that I've seen. It seems most people think of his older designs when they hear about them, but the newer ones are much better. I was not bribed to write this, but hey Dave, how about a discount on my next purchase. Phil

Sweet! The brackets at on the bottom left (looking from the front), are they for the oil cooler? If so your really staying true to the original . I remember seeing some pics of the BRE where the opening was shared by both the cooler and radiator, which was a condensed Corvette unit. I'm sure you already know all of this, but just thought I'd throw it out there.

I'd hate to spray over body work that you have no idea how good it is. Just food for thought.

Didn't want to rub it in, but I already have the Nissan Comp pan. I bought it used for a price I'd rather not disclose, but still considerably cheaper than what they were at the time, which was around $600. I feel it is much better than the cast one because it has crank scrapers and a larger capacitly. But on the other hand it takes about 12 quarts combined with dual filters and the oil cooler! This doesn't include an additiona 2 for the preoiler either. BTW, I had to cut and patch the back corner of the pan to make clearance for the Nissan Comp header. That really steamed me up, you'd think two products sold by the same company would work together! Ron, you say a dry sump will give you a marginal HP increase, but I'd still like to get one some day. From the reading I've done, they say you'll still get about 10-15 hp over a wet sump. What exaclty is "a bundle", $2000? Also, just out of curiousity, where's DP Racing, and do they just sell a Nissan pan? Phil

Just to throw it out there, what do you guys think a drysump setup would go for? It looks like you can still buy the pan from ARE. Anyone know of a supplier for the pump? I imagine this would have to be custom.

I only say this because I know how you feel, but will the car be ready for the National Convention?