wheelman

With all those stickers, the fancy blue wires and the chrome air filter grill it must be making 500hp. Wheelman

I installed a T5 in my Z behind an LT1 from a 1995 Cop car. I used the Datsun crosmember instead of the item sold by JTR and had to move it about 5 inches to the rear to line it up with the mount point on the T5. Don't know how a TH350 compares to a T5 but I'm pretty sure a TH350 and TH400 are the same length. The mount location is also dependant on how the engine is mounted, JTR set back style or Scarab style. Do a search if these terms don't mean anything to you. Look for an 83-89 V8 Camaro/TransAm, preferably 86-89 as the T5s are stronger in these. Can you use the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch from the Camaro/Firebird? Depends on what year the tranny comes out of. Later 305 SBCs (86 and later) were externally balanced and had 1 piece rear main seals. The flywheel from these will not work with your engine so find a flywheel from an internally balanced SBC and the rest of the parts will bolt right to it. The cranks are not dependant on the transmission. The Ford master cylinder has been made to work but not by me so search for that thread and then PM the guy to find out what all he did to make it work. I used a Wilwood 3/4" master cylinder and a stock Camaro slave cylinder for my setup. You will need a clutch pedal if yours was removed. You'll probably need to shorten the driveshaft. Find a local drivetrain shop that can do it, shouldn't cost to much. The input shaft differences between the TH400 and T5 are totally irrelevant due to the very different natures of the manual T5 and the automatic TH400. One last word, learn to use the search function on this site and the internet as a whole, there is a ton of information available if you just take the time and effort to look for it. Get the JTR (Jagsthatrun.com) manual if you don't already have it. Wheelman

Another aspect of the question to consider is "What class do you want to run in?" Sticking with a Nissan motor opens up the Street Modified 2 class in Auto-X where the Chevy engine will put you in a different class with "real" race cars. I'm not very familiar with road racing classes so won't comment. Some of the deciding factor in which class you end up in depends on the local club so check with them rather than relying on any of us. I talked to my local club and was told I'd end up in either SM2 or E-Mod depending on the overall car and how many cars are in either class (no fun to run in a class by yourself). For national competition I'd be in E-Mod because thats where the rules put me due to the LT1 I swapped in. I also second what Tim240Z suggested. Drop in an LS1. It's lighter than the L28, has more power stock than your looking for and a flat torque curve making it very versatile. Hard to beat for the price. Look at posts by Phantom regarding the weight dist. on his LS1 powered Z. His car ended up with a rear weight bias partly due to the light weight of the LS1 and the heavy T56. I swapped an LT1 with a WC T5 into my 240 and ended up with basically a 50/50 weight distribution. Wheelman

Finding a good rolling chassis without rust pretty much means you need to look in the south west. Arizona, California, Utah, New Mexico, etc.. I did an LT1 swap and got the engine from a 1995 Caprice Cop car rather than a Camaro/TransAm. It's the same engine but has iron heads and a cam setup for low end torque. The B-body (Caprice, Roadmaster, Cadillac) engines are cheaper but will always come setup for a 4L60E rather than a T56. I didn't want a T56 so I used a World Class T5 instead. So far my total cost is around $4500.00 with less than $500.00 to purchase the car itself. I've done all the work myself except the exhuast. I still have to rebuild the interior and do the body work so I figure I still have another $3000.00 to $3500.00 to go. That would put it around $7500.00 to $8000.00. As stated before the end cost really depends on how much you do, how much of it you do yourself and how often you fall into the "While I'm at it" trap. Believe me it's hard to avoid the trap when you see something that really needs to be fixed or replaced while everything is torn apart. The temptation to do it now while it's accessible is extremely strong. Wheelman

Are you sure it's an LT1? Or is it an early 70s LT-1? The new LT1s have multi-port fuel injection from the factory and can't use a manifold thats setup for an ealier SBC because the bolt holes don't match up. I have a Holley Projection system that I ran on a Ford 302 for a while in the early 90s. Very crude computer for the time and little to no feedback other than driving experience to tune it. I'm planning on using the throttle body assembly someday with a Mega-Squirt computer. Should provide a much more tunable system assuming I can find injectors for it that have the flow rate I want. Wheelman

These guys found a new method to launch bottle rockets. http://www.vikingds.com/zcarguy/buttrocket.wmv Edit: If you send this to any one please copy the file to your computer then attach to an email. I have limited bandwidth and will have to remove it if I get to much traffic. Thanks! Wheelman

Yes, you can bolt a T5 to a 70s era 350. I had to find the correct parts to work with my setup because the normal configuration for a 90s LT1 is either a 4L60E or a T56. If you use an 83 - 89 Camaro/TransAm T5 bellhousing it will bolt right to the 70s 350 block, then you just make sure you have the correct flywheel and clutch package for your engine and you should be fine. Just make sure the spline count/size of the T5 input shaft and the clutch disk match. Wheelman

If you decide to use the 305 flywheel be sure to get the correct one for your application. I'm running an LT1 so I needed one that was externally balanced, you may not need this depending on the setup of your engine. Wheelman

Any more specifics on what exactly you're planning? I used a T5 with my 1995 LT1 and had to source several parts because it's a non-standard combination. Used an 83-89 Camaro bellhousing, WC T5 from 89 TransAm, standard clutch fork, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, light 16 lbs externally balanced 305 flywheel, standard clutch disk/pressure plate and Wilwood 3/4" master cylinder. Everything bolted together and works fine. I did have to remove the clutch pedal stop so I had enough travel, but thats because of the master cylinder I used. I would make sure to find a World Class T5 if at all possible but be ready for a long search. Took me 3 months to find the one I got. I lucked out because the guy who was selling it pulled it from an 83 Camaro so thought it was a Non-World Class tranny. I had him give me the ID number from the small tin tag and used it to verify it was actually from a 1989 TransAm. I got it for 1/3 of the going price because the guy didn't know what he had. I didn't use the JTR tranny crossmember but modified the stock Datsun one by slotting the tranny mount and the hole it mounts to in the crossmember and then welded up a couple hangers that ended up about 5 inches back in the tunnel from the original Datsun hangers. I have some pictures somewhere if you want to see them. Turned out much better than I anticipated and the drive line angles are well within tolerances (100 mph run verified no driveline vibrations). Wheelman

Ed260Z, Thats exactly what the front springs do, or at least thats what mine did. I started a thread earlier this year where I reported my experiences with the springs, Tokico the company and the Ebay auctioneer I bought them through. The thread has some pictures of how far mine compressed when the car was placed on the ground. I have an SBC mounted in the JTR position in my car so yours may be slightly different. Do a search for that thread to get an idea of how far they compress. If you can't find it let me know and I'll see if I can post the pictures again. Wheelman

Sonomaz, I purchased and installed one of these kits except that mine had the HP strut rather than the Illumina. I didn't encounter the same problem on the rears as you did, makes me think the PO had put spacers in your strut tubes the last time the struts were replaced. Either that or you got a set of 280Z struts that had the 240Z part numbers on them. I agree with Jon, it looks to me like you got them installed correctly so I wouldn't stress it. I also didn't have to compress the rear springs to install them and ended up using tie-wraps to attach them to the upper perch so they won't shift when they are unloaded. At first I didn't do this and found that the right spring kept shifting on the lower perch and clunking. I was very upset to find the fronts were progressive and the rears linear (this is not documented anywhere by Tokico) but have since decided to keep them for a while to see how they do. So far they are ok, but I haven't really driven the car much. They also seemed to lower the car much more than I wanted, this still an issue but I'm learning to live with it. The car is not so low I can't drive it Wheelman

Gollum, Both of these guys are located in Australia but from their websites it looks like they can mate pretty much any tranny you want to the 1UZ-FE. It's worth a look. http://www.rodshop.com.au http://www.dellowauto.com.au I want to use this engine in a project some day, maybe I'll stick one in the Volvo 245 I was just given. I gave the car to my daughter but I don't think she would mind if we made a project out of it. She says she wants to learn how to work on cars and this is a very cool engine. Maybe I could pick one up cheap without the harness and use megasquirt-n-spark on it. Wheelman

I owned a 1958 Kharmann Ghia when I was in highschool that had a warmed over engine, put out somewhere around 90hp. The problem with these for drifting is they tend to go into snap oversteer which they then don't have enough engine to recover from and remain in a slide. You either go all the way round or if you get out of the throttle the rearend hooks and you loose the slide. I had this happen to me several times as I tried to run a canyon that follows the Spokane River through the Spokane River park. I wasn't trying to drift as this was back in the early 80s and drifting hadn't even been invented yet, I was trying to run the canyon as fast as I could. You could drop some serious money into an air cooled VW engine to produce enough reliable HP but even then it would take a very talented driver to do it right in an old Bug or Kharmann Ghia. As for buying a Mexican bug and re-VINning it as a 72, well I guess we'll be visiting you in prison when you get caught. Wheelman

Have you actually tried the Tokicos yet? I bought a set and was upset when I found out the fronts were progressive and the rears were not, I assumed they were all linear and thats what I wanted. I still have them on my car and have driven around a bit to find out whether I like them. They seem to be OK although I still don't like the idea of the progressives on the front, probably just my bias. Anyway my first set of rims/tires were old Enkie 14X7 Apache BBS look-a-likes running 195/65/14 which fit under the fenders very easily. Now I have a set of ROH 16X7 rims with 205/45/16s on them and 1 1/2" spacers for good backspacing, they don't come anywhere near the fenders, front or back but the outside of the tires are even with the outside edge of the fenders. Not sure if that makes sense, but I would definitely have a rubbing problem if they were to tall. I'm curious as to whether you've actually tried the Tokicos yet because I plan on running same size tire you are in the future, but if they rub then I'll have to rethink that plan. Edit: I have my LT1 set in the JTR position and am running the iron heads just to give you an idea of what my weight distribution is like. Wheelman

Man that really sucks. Do yo have insurance? Is it rebuildable? Did you have a shop do the conversion or do it yourself? Is your 260 and early or late model? I have a 73 240 which is basically the same as the early 260 and when I pulled the dash I found 3 of the headlight wires (at least I believe they are headlight wires) melted together into a single blob. I still haven't fixed it but my car is back on the jackstands so it isn't being driven. I wonder if this is what caused your problem or did the fire start in the engine bay? Wheelman

I have to agree with Aux, the Bimmer is ugly. Looks to me like they took styling cues from the Chrysler Crossfire. It's all out of proportion and to compare it to an S30 is an insult to the S30. Wheelman

Thanks for the feedback guys. I had doen some research before posting the question so I knew about the crank walk issue and that it isn't supposed to affect this year DSM. Lauryn (my daughter) and I have decided to pas on it and keep looking. The more we thought about it and added up the cost to get it in good running order it just wasn't worth it. As for the suggestions: Miata and RX-7 are definitely out as is any other Z right now. I really don't want to rebuild another Z right now and she doesn't have the money or time to do it right. Not to mention that insurance cost is an issue. She originally wanted a full size 4x4 truck but after driving our van she has decided wants a smaller car. Besides a 2 wheel drive trucks suck in winter weather and 4x4s are not allowed in Auto-X. I ran across a 1992 Mazda MX-6 DX today thats in good shape but has high miles (188,000). I'm going to take her to look at it tomorrow. If she likes it then we start negotiating. They're asking $1650.00 for it but I think I can get it down to about $1200.00. Let you know how it goes. Wheelman

We've started looking for a car for my daughter, she just turned 16. She's expressed interest in learning how to work on cars and also in Auto-X which I really want to encourage. Keeps her away from the young guys who just want to get down her pants. We ran across a 1990 Plymouth Laser turbo that needs a new head and exhaust manifold and who knows what else. It can't be driven (the head has been removed). The guy wants $900.00 for it and I found a head local that I can get for $250.00 The car is is in relatively good shape from what I can tell but I think it has been driven hard. So what do you guys think, should I make this thing my next project car to rebuild with the daughter or should I avoid it? Wheelman

You should be able to visit your local court house as Pop_N_Wood stated and use a terminal to access the computer system for free. Copies of records will probably incur a small printing fee, like 5 or 10 bucks but you can sit on the terminal all day if you need to, at least you can in my county. I used the local court house system to research some dirt bag tenants of mine that slipped past the screening service I use. Found out they had been convicted of several felonies more than 5 years ago so the screening didn't catch it (archived records). Now I'm going through the eviction process (what a pain in the a$$) due to the fact that they were still up to their old shenanigans and it pissed off all the neighbors. Good luck with your research. Wheelman

I agree with Moridin. Find another place to work but be professional about it and let them know why. Maybe they'll change thier tune when they see it's really important to her and allow your wife to take the time off without pay. If they are really uptight about it I'd find a different place to work, especailly if you can afford to not have her work for a while. Finding a new job is a full time job in itself so it's not like she'll just be sitting around doing nothing. Just my $.02 worth. Wheelman

Yeah, He said we was considering pulling the engine/tranny and then selling the remains for $4000.00. I think that is a bit much to ask for a 94 Camaro with no engine and tranny. Wheelman

I like the idea of dropping the LT1 in the Z32 but I think your $4000.00 price for a 94 Camaro with no engine and tranny is a bit of a reach. I don't think the LT1 or LS1 swap would vary much as far as the amount of work you'll need to do. The LS1 will give you a lighter more modern engine with a large after market starting to form and the LT1 gives you a known quantity you are already familiar with. Hard to go wrong either way but you'll have better luck selling that Camaro if it's a complete running car. Wheelman

Do the Jag. It would be more of a sleeper and I like the looks. Wheelman

Use dry ice in the cabin to freeze the stuff then chip it off. Place it on the floor and it'll freeze both the interior and exterior coatings. The coating is basically the same stuff on the inside and the underside. I used a combination of an air chisel and oven cleaner (easy off). It worked fairly well but I still have some left to do. Wheelman

I read through most of your document and found only a couple things. First I need to state that I installed my LT1 into a 73 240Z, it came from a Caprice cop car and I used a T5 rather than the T56. Because of this some things were different for me. 1. I wired my starter exactly as you stated using the Datsun positive from the battery and the solenoid lead from the ignition. It works but the VATS must be disabled otherwise the engine runs for only a few seconds. 2. I reprogrammed the PCM to remove the VATS requirement rather than jumper the pins, this also works but requires a programming cable and software or send off the PCM. 3. I'm using a 280Z tach and connected the tach output lead from the PCM directly to the sense wire on the tach. Once the ground was connected it worked fine and I recalibrated it using the JTR method and a data logging program to get the actual RPM. 4. I would seriously consider installing larger fuel feed and return lines. The LT1 will consume more fuel than the L28 and at high RPMS might be starved and run lean. I know some guys run the stock lines but I think it's asking for problems. This is much more of an issue in a 240 or 260 than a 280. 5. The LT1 PCM really wants a VSS and if you use the JTR tail section it eliminates it. I would stick with the stock VSS and either use an electronic speedo (there are several that work) or get a speedo drive box for the stock speedo. I tried to run mine without a VSS and it did OK unless you shifted down and used the tranny to slow the car, then it would die almost everytime. There is a discussion about this in the JTR EFI book. I used a 4 pulse per/rotation signal generator inline with my speedo cable as a VSS and it works fine. If you want the part # and vendor I can find them. It doesn't produce 4000 pulses per mile because it's driven by the speedo output rather than the driveshaft. I think the T56 is 17 pulses per rotation and the 4L60E is 40 pulses per rotation of the driveshaft. 6. I grabbed the underhood fusebox from the donor car which contains the fuses for the injectors, fuel pump, fan(s) and PCM power circuits along with the required relays. This made hooking up those items very easy. Hope this helps. If you want more specific info about how I wired things let me know and I'll see what I can do. Wheelman