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Vintage-TechZ

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Posts posted by Vintage-TechZ

  1. can you guys give a ballpark price range.... if its in the ballpark of 900 ill know not to wait up... ive been needing a hood ever since i bought my z so i can insure it an drive it, please let me know if you can, thanks

     

    I'm willing to give a ballpark price of 525-600 for the scooped,vented Warrior hoods in Fiberglass with a gelcoated , rolled edge finish.

    There will be NO additional trimming or sanding needed with this design.

    There will be a limited run of Carbon Fiber skinned hoods and an even fewer run of FULL carbon hoods with a price to reflect this.

    Production dates TBA later this year. As in all things custom....I'd advise to get a standard part to cover your engine's bay in the mean time.

    Cheer's, Vinny

  2. What is the patch for and where will/should it go? On the car? I am interest if the patch serves some kind of purpose.

     

    Well.....I'm going to sew them up to cover the holes in my underwear ! lol.

    Just kidding Vin. They are for applying to your favorite jacket or event shirt.....maybe a cool hat ? I assume it will be a nice embroidered sew on patch in color ??

    cheers.........Vinny 8)

  3. Any updates on timeframe. I know Vince has been super busy with other obligations.

     

    I am hoping to be making these again this Summer. We were actually quite close last year, but I held back in order to play out some theories. Which I'm glad I did.

    Shortly after that ( about 6 months) the Arizona hood with the smaller scoop was produced by 280zone.Which filled the gap for some.

    I feel we have a great functional uprated design to offer as well as keeping with the Z hood lines and adding some muscle to its appearance and exellent cooling properties !I also think you'll find the fact that there will be no trimming or cut-outs to deal with as well as the edges are rolled or finished completely as opposed to a raw edge.

    So stay tuned. Good things to come.

    .................Vinny 8)

  4. I ran across an old authentic Datsun patch from the 70's that was off of one of my old jackets. I thought some of you might like to see the old design comparitivly ?

     

    Nissan_Pix_002.jpg

     

    ..............Vinny

  5. You're going to need to somehow re-attach the top of your core support. The integrity of the core support is pretty important.

     

    Hmmm.......coming on to Barts thread a tad late here.....but from all the exposure with Z's that I've had.....I'd venture to say that all points fore or after the strut towers forward are non structural as far as the integrity of the chasis is concerned .

    Think of the fact that the front crossmember and strut towers (along with a tower brace) make up the final box of structure regarding the chasis.

    I DO think that it might be good to build an aluminum under tray for the filter to rest on. One that could be fully riveted back onto the radiator core support and perhaps also serve as an air seperator/splitter of sorts for the filters air source.

    If done properly with some thought ....it might very well be your saving grace and look the serious part.

    If your not skilled with sheetmetal forming.......befriend someone who is that can go off of your design or templates.

    Regarding hood air flow and scoops.........the Warrior's scoop is 27" back from the nose of the hood.Which is the farthest forward of any Z composites hoods being made.I know that 280zone hood scoop back edge is another 5 " further back then the Warrior hood.If this doesent work for you.......you'll be looking into a louvered custom steel hood or composite one off's.

    I'm thinking that maybe the filter box might work better turned upside down, aluminum shrouded and then let the thing breathe from the hood scoop and a custom duct thats mates up when the hood is closed.This way, the curved backward duct could be drilled for water shedding before the filter draws water in .Also large nasty bugs and debris could be detered without a direct hit into the filter for premature clogging.

    Just some ideas there ??

    .............Vinny

  6. Not sure where that point would be' date=' I am sure there are a lot of places where I am doing something I don't need but I just want to cover all the bases..

     

    Here is a link to the place that is making the header. I talked to them at SEMA and they seem to be a great bunch of guys. They don't show a RB one on the website yet but it is the same price as the Supra Manifold.

     

    http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=495

     

    And a pic pf the Toyota one. It will be very similar.

     

    [img']http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/supra_2_full_race.jpg[/img]

     

    You get the idea, They are way too expensive though. However it will never crack and if it does it has a lifetime warr.

     

     

    Jeff

     

    Nice goodies there Jeff ! Good Lord........that race header is made w/40 schedule weld el's and will weigh in at 75+ pounds !! You'll need an extra 100 hp just to carry that lump...lol.Engine hoist to install it....and 5 hours for it to cool down.lol

    Glad to hear your making some good headway on the Z Jeff !

    ..........Vinny 8)

  7. I JUST saw this car when in San Diego ! It must be a GREAT business oportunity to let go of such a unique and well planned out toy Bryan ! I have to admit your a better man than I to do so. When Keith ( Zhadman) and I were there looking at it...the last thing I would have anticipated was for you to list her on Ebay within a few weeks later !

    I hope he gets a million bucks ,he's a great guy.

    Good Luck man !........Vinny

  8. Well...I don't know this fine fellow who has access to the manifolds. Perhaps you can persuade him to work on bringing me one over or shipping one out to Missouri. I don't forsee anything but SNOW weatherwise here,so no real shipping risk/loss.lol.

    Let me know in a P.M. if you can.I'm interested in using one.

    .............Thanks...........Vinny 8)

  9. OH PLEEEEEEEZ tell me that guy is going to have videos of the first time he takes that thing out on the road to meekly get a few SUCKERS to gag race him !! lol.

    Oh the look on their faces as they get their sweaty little hairy bottoms handed to them !

    Quite PRICELESS I'm sure. He's going to need to Tub and narrow that rig before he gets any real traction for sure !!

    Vinny 8)

  10. JeffP has some pics of it on his site here: [url']http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page11.html[/url]

     

    OH YEAh........I remember that manifold now from years ago ! Strange that there was any need for a different casting tooling. You'd have thought the expense would have made them go with only ONE design.

    Thanks for the link......and yes, it would make for easy port work,IF its really needed ?

    ................Vinny

  11. Just a Note. When we compared the interior diameter of the runners on a STOCK Nissan Eurospec Turbo Manifold (the three-piece unit) they were actually BIGGER than the Tubular Header JeffP had made at South Florida Performance.

    None to happy with this revelation' date=' JeffP was in a funk for an extended period over it....LOL

     

    Anyway, the stock Eurospec manifold is very nice, and has the ability to porte almost EVERY part of the manifold due to being a three piece unit. Aside from the addition of the "Spacer-Wastegate" shown above, a little porting by the head for flow and I think it would be the ultimate part...factory cleaned up, cast iron, durable, and easily capable of the exhaust flow required for probably 600 horsepower.

     

    Unfortunately they are NLA from Nissan, so the only way to find one is in a Junkyard on the Continent! Very nice piece if you can get one, though! I believe the proper Nissan Term for it's caasting base metal now would be referred to as "Unobtanium"... Anyone in for casting knockoff pieces out of STanless Steel Scraps in their backyard Casting Blast Furnace? LOL[/quote']

     

    NO KIdding ?? I can't say that I remember seeing the 3-piece variety before. Any Pix of one ??

    I haven't seen JeffP's manifold,but it would seem that if he has a well thought out tubular design......it would have more flow regardless of the Euro's porting unless they were both a "LOG" design rather than full path tube all the way to the main turbo flange.

    Really......you don't want a tube thats huge anyway unless your specifying for a certain type of HP at a certain rpm.Your main restriction will always be the size of the turbine's exit/discharge diameter.So if your not Large there......no need to be large at the manifold too.

    Realizing of course that the back pressure "AFTER" the turbine impeller is a different story altogether.

    I'd be interested in viewing the Euro turbo manifold though ??

    .............Vinny

  12. This thread from Skylines Down Under is the best source of info I have found. Currently it is at 158 pages. Lots of reading.

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15420

     

    Cubes has put together a pdf file you most likely have already seen.

     

    Slowly but surely I am setting up a website to document the progress of my RB30/26 build. Now I just need the time to do everything. The site is still under heavy construction.

    http://www.fairladyzg.com/engine.htm

     

     

    Exellent.............looks like some good studying for me ! Thanks Stealth !

     

    Tfreer85.....your pm'd !

    ...........Vinny

  13. After searching/reading through numerous Rb threads.....I wanted to inquire about the PARTS and steps needed to build the RB26 with a 30 block ?

    Is the 30 crank maintaned?

    Is the block unmoddified ?

    Is it straight bolt-on ?

    Same rod size ?From wich block used ?

    Gasket sets cross reference ?

     

    And for THOSE actually sourcing parts and DOING the build etc.................what have you found to be relavant towards this direction ?

    Are there good results posted and of what final HP and torque ?

    What turbo/turbo's selected ?

    MAnifolds used ?

     

    You get the Idea......just a thread to catalogue the RB30 build and things needed to do it....along with knowledge of final results and performance.

    Keep it to subject,thanks.......Vinny 8)

  14. After a 15 hour round trip non stop drive' date=' the motor is finally home. Now I need to start cleaning it up and get it prepped for install.

     

    Debating if I should really get into it and do a full build up, or get it running first.

     

    Any ideas are welcome.[/quote']

     

    Congrats !! Boy do I remember when I first picked up my AWD RB26DETT drivetrain and motor !Quite abit more than 15 hours though. I drove a box van from Sacremento up to Reno Nevada ( after stopping in rio Vista CA., for a Hybrid event first) then loading it all up with Bernard Plett ( English teacher living in Japan) and then the long trip home to Springfield Missouri deep to the east Midwest ! It snowed something fierce most of the way too ! Whew...that'll blind you and wear you out as well as hypnotise you.

    But I made it home OK. I was excited to get everything all mocked up and did a good warm-up bench test since I had the complete harness and ecu as well as all sensors.

    Purred like a kitten....well more like a lion as I didn't have any down pipes.lol.

    SO I'd get her fired up after you check all fluids etc and start getting that relationship dialed in. Otherwise it will just gather dust and you might let the deep amount of RB info bury your original enthusiasum and end up selling her to a friend at a loss to move on.

    ................Vinny

  15. Yeah, Toms right...........drive em' if ya' got em' ! I'll be doing that by sitting in mine with it up on stands and making rev noises like I have for the last few years !lol

    Enjoy what family you have too ! There is a funny saying that I remember hearing when I was a boy. It was an old woman speaking to her grandkids when they were ALL together......." now you kids will all get along alot better if you just behave LESS like yourself"!!lol.

    I have to admit........although this hasn't been a shining year for me personally, I atleast can say I'm not in a dark emotionless black hole like I had been for the last 2 1/2 years from losing Greta in that F'in crash.

    So those of you lucky bastards out there still with wife/girlfriend/Fiance's or whatever shares your company.....make it count and be "all you can be " for them and " be LESS like yourselves " long enough to make the moments richer.

    Hybrid Z'ers are usually a pretty good make of breed and behave well around others.......so I'm not inciting anybody out there.

    Be safe ,be fun,be loving where you can....be in a Z !

     

    Love to all HB-Z peeps..Vinny 8)

  16. oh oh.. duct tape.. LoL

     

    I was gonna ask... um.. Vinny what

    top secret 007 stuff are you hiding from us?!

     

    Oh I KNEW I shouldn't have said anything. You guys don't miss a thing.lol.

    Its really nothing that probably hasn't been done 50 times before I would think.We've been porting on these things for so many years...its ALL been done by now.

    Did that longwinded statement divert your curiosity enough so I don't have to say "no pix" ...??lol.

    Vinny 8)

  17. I can't be a judge if whether or not your money was well spent since there can be SO many variables to that. Its still a shame the painter wasn't motivated enough to use a wovwn cord under and along all seal edges to help the final product.

    Always disasemble a car before a repaint or be victim too a lesser quality result.

    Now to your problem,....I believe you will NOT have the option to buy anything but OEM Nissan rubber seals if and when you need to replace glass in order to fully cover your hard paint lines .You;ll STILL need to see about wetsanding that hard line down for the new seals to lay fully flat.Use the best Eurothane black sealer to complete the new seal and use plenty of tape to preload and secure all rubber edges.

    You;ll need to run a razor around the seal to avoid tearing the paint before removal of the seal and glass.

    Or prepare and repaint the car right next time.

    Best of luck........Vinny

  18. I'll tell you what...........if that car would be produced on the same Mercedes floorplan as the current Charger is.....that will be a great handling ,well natured daily driver !!And it looks every bit as good as the new Stang IMHO.

    Was that just a prototype or show car ??Thats the first I'd seen of it.

    ...........Vinny 8)

  19. I can see what your saying there about" reducing the number of cylinders".

    Its almost a bragging rights thing. I mean to upsize is always a conversation getter....whereas going smaller displacement raises the eybrow for most.

    In fact I could have seen that a Titan V-8 might have been a more "NEW" approach that could have even been a bigger media swirl for their marketing efforts.And MIGHT have even recieved Domestic praises IF it was faster and exciting to hear open pipes roar from it.

    But ,ALAS...........its just for the F&F III for crying out loud.

    In fact.....I'm pretty sure if I ever went to the dark side ( V-8).. in a S30 I'd go for the Titan engine w/twin spoolers and dual exhaust and a parachute !

    Boo yah !!

    ..............Vinny 8)

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