olie05

Derek -- any updates on the tl70 swap?

I think this is completely opinion, and should not be presented as fact, as you have done. Drifting is a subjective "sport", subject to the opinion of the judges... I like to think of it as the figure skating of motorsports. For example, a lot of drifters use a hydraulic handbrake. A slide initiated by using the handbrake, in your opinion, is not a drift. However, this is commonplace even in professional drift cars. How is that much different than using the power to get the car sideways?

Beautiful job! This is definitely an inspiration to me. Thanks for documenting it.

I'm curious, what did you find out to be the issue with the solid copper gasket?

Jon, Almost all the links you posted to the definition of asymmetrical cams are referring to cams that would be used in engines with relatively fixed/constant rocker ratio, which would also result in a symmetrical cam giving symmetrical valve opening/closing. Maybe the nomenclature doesn't agree from one source to the next, but I would have to agree that almost all L6 cams would have to have asymmetrical "cam profiles" to optimize the changing rocker ratios for valve velocity/acceleration (as mentioned in your BMW quote.) For the Original Poster, Why not buy some v-blocks as Jon mentioned earlier, get a dial indicator and a degree wheel and measure the cam all the way around. Then model the valve movement as the cam acts through the rocker arm, and check out what the lift is. At that point you would have more information than the original cam card had. (might be more work than you signed up for though.) Also, if anyone is willing to take measurements of their cam (don't care if it's stock or regrind) and send them to me, I would be happy to model the resultant lift at the valve.

This is looking really great. Can't wait to see the finished product.

I guess it really depends on where the torque peak ends up... which would come from headwork/cam and probably be influenced by the rod-stroke ratio. I want to build this engine to last, not to blow up, so if i wanted to frequent 8000rpm without breaking apart cranks, would I be able to get away without a full counterbalance crankshaft? (btw it looks like i'm going to end up with a standard diesel crank anyway)

I've been toying with the idea of going to a stroker crank, and of course I started doing some searching on the topic. In my searching I came across Kameari who appear to be the only company publicly selling "aftermarket" crankshafts for the l-series. This includes an 83mm standard ld28 crank, a fully counterweighted 83mm crank, and a fully counterweighted 85mm crank. Also someone in NC has a moldex billet crank, don't know if this is fully counterweighted or not, but it seems like something you might as well do if you're getting a custom made billet crank. (source:http://speed.racingjunk.com/category/83/GT/post/1969249/Datsun-Z-Car-vintage-racer.html) From what I have read, it seems that the main reason to go with fully counterweighted is to be able to rev higher. Also, a striking disadvantage is that you are adding more weight to the crankshaft. As an aside, it looks like the rb series engines do not use fully counterweighted cranks, while most (if not all) aftermarket stroker RB cranks are fully counterweighted. TVR's Speed six crank isfully counterweighted. This leads me to believe that fully counterweighted cranks are more reliable in performance applications. Can someone please provide some insight on any other pros and cons of this type of crank vs what we the other 99% of us are running?

Finally got to work on the car this past weekend. I took the trigger wheel off and remounted it, made sure it was centered, then did some cranking tests. Somehow the RPM signal was getting to megasquirt regardless of previous cranking history (this was not the case before). I took the spark plugs out and decided to sandblast them, since the closest autoparts store was about a 30min drive from where we were. Set the cranking pulsewidths very low and it fired right up. Looking back, I'm guessing everything was working right the whole time, I just could not diagnose the coil signals using the multimeter's Frequency setting. Thanks for all the suggestions guys! ..Now to create a tach signal for the autometer Tach that works with the edis module...

Opened up the new slave cylinder and it was clean, light assembly lube I guess, but no metal shavings. I installed it today and it seems to be working fine so far. Let's see how long this one lasts.

Over the last 5 years or so, I have replaced at 3 different clutch slave cylinders and I have had to replace the master cylinder once. I just went down to autozone and claimed the warranty on the last one I purchased, but I'd like for my slave cylinder to last longer than 2 years for once. What usually happens is the clutch fluid starts to show up by the boot of the slave cylinder, and the pedal feels spongy. I have a centerforce stage 2 pressure plate, so it's stiffer than stock. If I buy an OEM cylinder from courtesy will I solve the problem, or do you guys with heavier P.P.s go to a different style slave cylinder? What are my options here?

Cool.

Already tried that, and it shows the same symptoms either way. I would also like to add: why do the MSNSE diagrams show pin 4 disconnected? It says IGN GND ... that sounds kind of important. 4 cylinder EDIS module pinout Signal EDIS Module Terminal PIP (EDIS output signal) 1 IDM (diagnostic signal to ECU) 2 SAW (ECU spark control signal) 3 IGN GND (signal return) 4 VRS - (crank sensor negative) 5 VRS +(crank sensor positive) 6 VRS shield (crank sensor shield) 7 VPWR (ignition switched 12 volts) 8 PWR GND 9 COIL 1 (coil drive) 10 CTO (clean tach out) 11 COIL 2 (coil drive) 12

The edis (and megasquirt) is getting its power from the main relay. I'm thinking that taking it all out and bench testing it might be a good idea. This is really a strange problem. I thought EDIS was supposed to work no matter what! using this diagram, http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/edis4ew.gif if I probe from pin 2 to 1 on the coil pack harness I see +12v if I probe from pin 2 to 3 on the coil pack harness I see +12v also. If I probe 2-1 or 2-3 (coil harness) on the frequency setting on the multimeter while cranking, I get no signal. That's the part that's confusing me, because I can see the cranking RPM on the screen Voltage drops to about 8v during cranking. Too low? I'm attaching some cranking data logs which demonstrate the no RPM reading after initial cranking. Reset is required for megasquirt to read RPM again. Thanks for the diagnostic tips! Hopefully we'll find an answer soon! datalog201009051644.zip

I tested the module today and it turns out it's good. I guess now I'm tracking down a wiring issue. Anyone have any edis advice? --One thing I am wondering: If the edis is somehow not sensing the missing tooth, will it still provide a PIP signal to megasquirt but no spark to the coils?