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First method using a high nickel rod /arc welding would be best.The stainless rod is good too. Also do not use a abrasive grinder on cast iron before welding it. This will smear the graphite casing poor results. Use a file or carbide burr or HSS burr. Wire wheels are ok. To increase penetration without adding more heat you should vee out the edges(chamfer) or add a small gap between parts. The slow post cool down is critical. The high nickel rod is going to be the most forgiving due to its ability to stretch during cooling. The steel and cast iron are going to contract at different rates during the cooling process. Handling 600deg metal is not fun. Make sure you have a spare set of hands to help and they are wearing the proper safety equipment . 600deg will melt flesh like butter. You should use the least amount of heat when welding it cold. Skip welding and peening as John said. Back welding is another method. I have welded a few VW exhaust manifolds with E70s6 with good results.

That it is (semantics). He probably knows less about the subject than when he first asked. Just buy a book from Home Depot and read up. Best of luck .

I did not get the impression you were against what he was doing or not like it. Just giving him a hard time in a rather long winded way.I have used the word unobtainium before. You crack me up. Good for a laugh I always liked it when people charged a/c units until they got beer can cold on the suction line myself. That one cracks me up too.

Tony D I must applaud your use of emperical. Just the other day I was trying to use it in a sentence. I gave up after a couple trys. You crack me up. Most entertaining though.

The neutral goes all the back to the power transformer. It is part of the circuit. The ground is so if the appliance shorts internally it has a path to ground. If the case of the appliance was not grounded the the only path to the ground would be you when you touched the case(if it was internally shorted). The neutral and ground both go to the ground at some point. At the appliance they should never be interchanged for safety reasons. It is very simple. If you use the ground in the circuit and the case is grounded and you are sweaty or wet you touch the casing of the appliance and make a path of less resistence, you die. Its that simple. You are quite right about it. Check your local codes there is a reason this practice is not allowed.

Its not 3 phase.Sounds like it is a single phase 220v/110v. 2 hot wires plus a neutral and a ground wire. Some appliances require both voltages to operate. Do not cap the ground wire off! If your welder is 220v it does not need the neutral wire.No offense if you have to ask about wiring you should have an electrician do it. Electricity is no joke. Also there isn't any thing wrong with flux core. It has more spatter and you have to chip the flux. If you are going solid core wire spend the extra money and get 75% argon 25% co2 mix. Straight co2 spatters almost as bad as flux core.

I am going too. Looking forward to seeing DT also.

To each his own. I second the retarded statement though.

There is a 4th method. Pulsed laser in a vacuum chamber. I had a instructer who joined aluminum to stainless. He was a welding consultant for LL Labs.(also known as the rad lab home of the worlds largest laser). He was told off the record it went up on the space shuttle. Have no doubt it is legit.

I would have to lift my car through the rafters to be able to stand under it. I'm 6ft. Sure would be nice to have a tall enough garage to be able to do this . Nice lift. I'll have to make do with jack stands for now.

FYI there are no 2jz bolt in kits. The ZX motor bolts in. There is alot of fab work involved to get the 2jz in. Do you have any fab experience or are you planning on having someone do it for you? There are alot of details to work out. Not trying to discourage you in the end you should do what you want. 2jz can get really expensive especially if you have someone else doing the work. I am still working out some of the details myself. Lots of homework involved. Best of luck however you decide to go.

No offense, why bother with 350 whp. The 280zx turbo motor can make this alot cheaper(alot less hassle too).I have one laying on the side of the house that came out of my 73. You should really search this forum alot more. Plenty of members making these numbers with the zx motor.

Quit teasing. Lets see some dyno graphs. Very nice.

The one I posted was a single turbo. The 2jz-gte factory turbos are sequential. There are some problems with the second turbo free spooling to death with no load.Look up the operating sequence and potential problems known to happen( I am sure proper maintenance would prevent this). Single turbos seem to be more efficient and do not have complicated sequential mechinisms that are prone to failure. Just my .02.

Thats what the transmission is for.I must say It's not for everyone. Just play it safe and put a small block v8 in it. It will be cheaper in the long run and plenty fast.

No offense, that is not a typical 2jz-gte power band.

There is a reason for pushing or pulling the puddle. Providing the settings are the same, pushing makes a bead wider with less penetration. Pulling makes a taller bead with more penetration. This is in reference to stringer beads. It does look like the welds are lacking penetration. Turn up your machine and try doing a series of overlapping spot welds. The object is to move over slightly and use the previous spot weld to help back up the next.There will be a slight pause between welds. If you are using flux core try not to let it cool too much as you will trap slag from the flux. The amount of stick out also effects the penetraction. You can always make a larger patch and flange the edges giving you a little overlap.

+1

30w non detergent oil. The oil for car engines has detergent in oil and is made for pressurized oil lubed system. Air compressor are usually splash lubrication.Auto parts stores carry it.

It is really easy to test your relay. Connect #30 to battery POS. and #85 to battery NEG.. You should hear a click. If you hear a click(keep #30 and #87 hooked up to battery) then take multi meter and test for continuity at #86 and #87. If you get continuity the contacts are closed and it is a good relay. I have installed this type of relay and it works great.Ressolved the voltage drop to solinoid problem. I am assuming the #s you wrote are correct as I do not remember off the top of my head. My car is disassembled at the moment(2jz conversion).

Remove the driveline and check to see if the u-joints move smoothly. Had an old Toyota that had a severe vibration in the upper rev range.Ran smooth below 4K rpm. The u-joints were really stiff. Replaced them and everthing was good afterwards.

They claim to make their parts to OEM specs or better. I have never used them. The seller has a good track record.

Diesels can run 200+psi with compound turbos. Diesels do not use spark plugs to ignite the fuel either. The air is compressed and then the fuel is injected.The ignition system on gas motors can also be a limiting factor, along with fuel grade. Just my 2cents.

Little agressive aren't you. I never said anything about using USDM ECU . I did use the pinout for the USDM supra with the one exception on the odd shaped plug. Motor started and revved perfect. Turbos fuctioned properly as well. I was using a JDM ecu. No offense was meant to you MIKE321. I hope the best for your wiring issues to be resolved on your project.