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Thanks for the info. Does that kit make it a bolt in project, or is there still some modification needed with that kit? Thanks again! You also need cv axles and adapters. Theres a sticky in the drivetrain forum. I have a r230 , I had to remove some metal above the differencial housing. I am not sure if this needs to done on the r200?

No rust and a few little things to repair. Score!

Yes it will. But it is not a direct bolt in. Check out http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74&PHPSESSID=e4c4cdce0da0661dae77c16c27d4de83

It feels better to me due to less pedal effort. You do know about opinions and buttholes. Everyone has one, some smell worse than others. Mines no different.It stinks.

I used a stock 240z master cylinder on the 260z with the larger booster. It did have to be flipped upside down.

The master cylinder was not replaced. The booster was.

The aluminized steel is about $50.00 less than the 409. This will most likely last the life of your car. It most likely weighs less depending on gauge. It is a good product. Just another option for one to consider.

I put one on a stock 260 . I think the booster was off a 83'. It has a larger diameter booster, only works with automatic tranny(master clutch cylinder gets in the way). Stopping requires less effort. The car is for my daughter ( She's just starting out).Otherwise it would have a stick shift. The brake pedal feels better to me also.

Sorry, posted (?) by accident. My bad.

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The JDM 440cc (2jzgte) injectors are also side feed.

Nice

I was meaning Nissan L28 ,26, 24 single overhead cam motors are not capable of. Sorry for the confusion. F1 motors have exceeded 130%. My point being SUs are not just for economy. They are matched to the motors. The holley isn't really any better.

The SUs are capable in stock form of flowing enough fuel and air for these motors at 100% VE. Last time I checked N/A motors are not capable of 100% volumetric efficiency(this includes N/A race motors). Properly tuned they work just fine.The holley is not an improvement. The question is what do you want from your car that is not providing you at this time?

Yes. Make sure to clean out the old oil(mineral) it does not mix well with the 134a oil(PAG).(POE oil does work with both r12 and 134a).

Snailed is right. You will loose travel by lowering the spring perch. Think about it. The compressed spring length is not changed. The lower part of the strut is still the same length. That leaves the distance between the strut packing gland nut and the top spring perch.This is now shortened and in doing so you loose travel.

How much stick out (wire that is) are you using? This is critical for penetration or lack of or too much. Increasing wire speed increases amps. The other knob adjusts voltage. Are you pushing or pulling the wire? This also makes a difference. Push the wire and shorten stick out to decrease penetraction and it will also widen bead slightly. Is the machine set on DCEP or DCEN. DCEN will give the least amount penetration with a tall bead if you are using solid core wire. Flux core is a different story. As someone stated above go to a smaller gauge wire for thinner sheetmetal. You can also use TIG rod along with the larger wire. Place the Tig rod against the sheetmetal where you want to weld. Now spot weld where the TIG rod is touching the sheetmetal. Move over a little and repeat. The TIG rod will help to prevent blow through. It also works great for filling in holes or chasing holes in rusted metal. Your bead will be a series of overlapping spot welds(this method also works without the addition of the TIG rod).

I totally agree with you concerning any comment you made about keeping the VG30dett in this car.(great motor in it's own rite.) PS the 2jz was not designed in Japan or by Toyota. Try Germany.

Z32= VG30dett There's alot of people who think this is a great motor. Your engine compartment was designed for a v6. The 2jz is alot longer than the VG. That leaves you with 2 options 1) mount it overhanging front axle = poor weight balance.2) modify firewall and tunnel=difficulty working on motor. Seems to me a poor choice either way( just my .02 ). If you want to try and do it go for it. I am actually biased towards the 2jzgte myself. I have a build in progress in my 240z with one. Good luck.

Don't do it. Find someone to repair existing motor.

The factory twin turbos and the stock ecu ( JDM 2jzgte ) are easily capable of 400whp . The jdm motor has smaller 440cc injectors and the cam is a little smaller. The turbos are somewhat different and the down pipe is smaller too. The ecu uses a different system to calculate the air flow. There are some other minor differences. The jdm motor is rated at 280hp, the US is rated at 320hp. From what I have read the jdm is under rated and closer to 320hp also. with minor mods you can increase the hp quite a bit. Go to this web site to get an idea. http://www.suprastore.com/450hppackage.html

Ooouch. Ignition in the intake!! Looking at it I would never have thought that.

How much boost were you running when the sheetmetal intake manifold went boom? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/74260zt/rb26powered74zcar/sheetmetal%20intake%20go%20BOOM/dcp_0721.jpg Nice car.

Driftmotion will take your shifter and make it longer. http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-r154shifterextensionformk4sc300.php

Just adding the lye to the water can cause it to boil all by itself. Depends on the mixing ratio of the 2. It can cause the aluminum to turn white (Heavy surface oxide). At higer ratios and temps it can consume aluminum. It is also used in hot tanks at machine shops to clean engine blocks and such. Works great. It also will chemically burn you if you get it on bare skin. Ever seen the Movie "Fight Club" when Pitt spits on Nortens hand and pours the lye on afterwards? What happened next was not an exageration. Be very careful. Another member on this board got servere chemical burns when some got in his boot. It ate the flesh off his foot!