ozzzzz

1JZ 2JZ installation instructions for dummies,2 weeks, drive it! Read this entry. It is pinned to the Toyota L6 forum. Then research the web for front cut with 1jzgte or 2 jzgte motor. It will have all the wiring included. It will also have gauges. It will save alot of time and effort for you. There are other ways to go about it. This seems to be one of the most straight forward way to do it.Source a custom driveshaft. Go to www.betamotorsports.com for engine mount/ crossmember. There are a number of other small things. No one can tell you exactly what it will cost for you to do this. Are you going to do the fab work yourself? Is someone else going to do it for you? The cost goes up or down depending on this. Just my .02. To get an idea of the cost do the research and add it up. I do not think there is a whole lot of cost difference between the jz motors and the rb motors when all is said and done.

Thanks, Working on the front suspension. Just bought a swaybar from Lumberjack. Nice guy.

Added some desciptions to pictures. I did all the fab work and welding myself. Rear suspension was narrowed 3.5''. I was not trying to recreate the wheel so I moved the control arm mounts inboard. Fabbed up cromoly control arms and moved the wheel wells inboard also. Replaced both floor pans. the front frame rails were severely rotted from the inside. Grafted in 2.5 x 2.5 x .120 box tubing to replace them. Drivetrain is a 2jzgte single BW 85/73 turbo motor and v160 6 speed tranny driving a r230 rear end.I have been woking on this car for about 1.5 years. Lots of parts and work still needed to complete. This car came with a 280zx turbo motor when I bought it. Not the best conversion I have seen. Wiring was a rats nest. A fire waiting to happen. Hope you like it. Thanks

I had a similar experience. I ordered the hatch seals and the tail light gaskets. One of the seals was not going to be in stock for 6 months. They were going to wait until the order was complete before shipping? WTF!! I have ordered many times from them both before and after this and have received my parts witin days. Iwould still recommend them.

There is ISO metric class of bolts and there is the SAE grade type(American sizes)also ASTM rating system. It's not just the psi and yield ratings. you should Google it to get the exact differences.

I believe 10.9 is a metric bolt class not a grade. There is a difference. Just fyi no offense ment. There is a aircraft grade 10 I think it is around 185kpsi range? A friend of mine was using them on a ultralite.

Photos 10,11, and 32 show the mount. The mounts are trd mounted to 1''x3''x1/8" box tubing crossmember. The brackets are angle and round tubing boxed to the angle iron.If anything they are overkill. The angle is 3/16''.

Very cool.Ball bearings to boot. First time I've seen them on a BW. Wish I had one.

OOOppps wrong link. http://s1096.photobucket.com/home/ozzzzz1/index This should be the correct one.

Just some photos of my project. http://s1096.photobucket.com/home/ozzzzz1/index Lots of work left to do.

I have one on my build. As stated prevously the wastegate pipe had to be cut shorter and I welded a v-band on. http://s1096.photobucket.com/albums/g335/ozzzzz1/ The picture is on the first page.

Do you have any dyno sheets or did I miss this somewhere in here. I would like to see the power curve on this bad boy. When does it start to spool? thanks.

No despute on the VG being the superior motor. 300whp is easy to make on the L28.No offense ment to you VG boys. Looked into installing 1 in my 260 a while back.

The SVO was a turbo 4 cylinder it was not slow in its day.Not as fast as the 5.0L. Hood scoop was offset to 1 side of the hood. I think it had a bi-level wing on the hatch. Memory is fading with age.

The L28 is a direct bolt in. Your HP goals are very modest(& practical of a fast daily driver). Have you ever swapped a non stock motor? Lots of work and details to work out. It is very easy for others to tell you what they think you should or should not due. I can't believe that installing a VG would be cheaper than a L28. Your time must be worth something? Just my .02 . If you alreading have the VG that's a different story all together. If that's what you want go for it. It sounds like a cool mod. Good luck.

What are you HP goals?

Lift the piston up with your finger and let it drop( with out air cleaner on ) Does it drop to the bottom by itself? If not loosen the top of dome 3 or 4 screws. Pull piston out with needle. Check to make sure the needle did not get bent or caked up with gunk. There is a certain amount of slop in the dome when reassembling. You will have to play around with this to get the piston and needle not to bind. As stated from others make sure you get the soot and such off the sliding surfaces. If you get the piston dropping to the bottom smoothly and the jets still stick try twisting the jets a little clockwise or counter clockwise where the linkage attaches to the jet. It may take a couples tries. I just went through this process when I switched over to 72 SUs on my 260. Try this web site www.ztherapy.com. They have a video for overhauling SUs. You have to call to order though. I was able to overhaul and set-up these carbs with minimal cursing following the video. Hope this helps.

Is it just 1 jet or both? Have you taken your carbs apart recently and put them back together?

Send me a PM with your contact info. As long as you are willing to get dirty we can work something out.

I Can do that.

Your location says SF. Can you be more specific. I live in Livermore.

Nice. I'm building one with a S300SX 83-75. Looks good.

Nice. I'm building one with a S300SX 83-75. Looks good.

What size turbo are you running?