Roggaman

I might be interested in the windshield, perhaps two of them.

I don´t know the conditions on the road were you live, but I would say that below 4" you are limiting the streets you can drive it on! My 280ZX has had around 90mm of ground clearence at its lowest setting, and it got stuck now and then... I ended up raising my frame rails, and now have around 105mm (4 1/4")

Does anyone have or know where to find, a drawing for the L28 oil pan bolt pattern?

No problems with mounting the trigger wheel on the non-rigid part of the pulley? Seems it would give an incorrect trigger signal due to vibrations in the rubber mounted part of the pulley. I know a guy that install lot of both MS and Vems systems, and he recommends not to do it that way. Otherwise it seems like a neat solution!

With a front airdam and lowered aprox. 2 1/2" and a modified suspension (and around 280+bhp to push it), my 280ZX was stable all the way up to a speed of 249km/h (155,6mph), calculated, not "speedo". I had to break then cause I ran out of straight, but it felt like the car could top out at somewere around 255km/h (159mph) My friends car (280ZX) with no airdam and stock ridehight was getting nervous at around 185-190km/h (115-119mph)

So getting quicker respons is worthless!? I´ve gone from one turbo to twin on my L28, and though the respons was rather quick on my "single" installation, the twins where noticebly quicker! The best way to feed a turbo (on a 4-stroke engine) is with the exhaust from 3 cylinders with evenly spread ignition sequence (that is 240 degrees apart). You can achive that with (on a 6-cylinder) twin turbos or with one turbo with twin entries. Here´s some pics of my twinturbo-arrangement: http://speedfreak.nu/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=38685 http://speedfreak.nu/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=38678

I've cleaned up my intake and got rid of a lot of bungs and protrusions among other things. Also "cleaned" up the inside of the intake, by cutting the plenum in half and then weld it together whilest widening it a 1/2 inch. Look here for picture's: http://speedfreak.nu/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=38685 http://speedfreak.nu/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=38697 The car is slightly "nervous" from start-up and for a couple of minutes, but then runs really well. I never drive it on the winter though!

Looks to me he has to make new bracket since these seem to be made for a sedan! The wing itself seems to be pointed in the right direction.

Yes, you will kill the water pump pretty quick!

The text says it's (was) the only car that were driveable after crash test...

I mounted the oilcooler under the IC between the framerails. Had to modify the rails and the parts were the headlight case mounts to the chassi, but I think it was worth it! Pictures here: http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=%D6vrigt-280ZX&id=dscn0428_2_001&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Used Z31 parts don't grow on threes in Sweden, and buying new ones ain't that cheep. I had plans for doing a completely custom made axle with 35mm bearings and beefier splines, but than I will be forced to make a custom made joint for the CV-axle, and time is somewhat short...

"Zhadman" It's only a centering device for the brake disc, and it is that thin to save weight... "zcarnut" The Z31 pattern is 5x4,5" (5x114,3), and BMW is 5x120mm (5x4,72"), so they are not interchangeable. This is taking some time, but the cost is almost nothing. I will be running 8x17" wheels up front with 312x20mm brake discs, and 9,75x17" wheels at the back with 300x10mm discs

These stubs I´m making will cost me nothing, so I think it´s worth it! I guess I just have to send the old ones with the drawing and let them make the new splines from the old ones. BTW, here are some pics from the front hub and a drawing of the rear ones. http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=album436&id=Nav&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=album436&id=108_0833&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Pictures and someone telling me how many splines there is gives me nothing... I need to know the module and/or as many measures as possible of the toots. I searched through all (I think) the posts on "splines", and came up with nothing! I´ll send a message to Scotty and Tim to see if they know, or maybe Ross C has the answer!?

Does anyone know what spline standard Nissan has used on the stub axle (not sure if it´s caled stub axle, it´s the part connecting the driveshafts to the wheels, running inside the wheel bearings) of the 280ZX? Sorry for not knowing the exact name of the part, if I had write it in Swedish I would have gotten it right, but then very few of you would have understood anything at all. I know the number of splines and the outher diameter, but would like to know what module it is. I am making some new hubs to fit BMW wheels and brakes. The front hubs are already done, and the blueprints for the rear ones are done exccept for the splines.

Use as much NOS-hp as you would have gain on a conventional tuning and use it only on higher revs, than you wouldn't have any greater risk of engine failure... But higher comp, better cam, header and exhaust and some porting and tuning etc would be more fun on a daily basis, (imho) but will cost you 3-4 times as much.

Yes, the runners are smaller than the intake ports. I cut my plenum in half and ported the runners all the way (from both sides) and matched them to the cyl head. Made a noticeble differences. Worth it? I had a friend to do the welding when I was done with the porting, so for me it was surely worth it (a couple hours work and a beer to my mate...).

Looks like a Ferrari 330 to me. But it got some lines from the MGB GT too.

It would make it a lot more easier if I could use some existing flares as a start. Would be great if you could find out more...

Anyone know anything about this car? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3968&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 Looks like something I would like to implement on my 240-project. I realise this is probebly a one-off, but I would like to see more pics off it. I also realise that the car has been lowered a lot (the wheel wells sit "higher" on the body). But since my project will need new fenders, floor, rails etc. it won't be a problem.

Anyone know the complete Bosch number?? Found two different injectors from Bosch for the Merc 450, no one with a number incl. '036'... One of them with a price of (approx.) $50 and the other $170 each!!

Here´s a link to my intake: http://speedfreak.nu/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo82&id=aau&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php I cut the plenum in half and smothened it out both on the outside and the inside, ported the runners, and when welding it all together, widened it half an inch + welding a plate for my 63mm BMW throttle body. Works fine for me!

I´ve been running BPR7ES-11 in my L28E (F54,N42) twinturbo setup. The gap was reduced to around 1mm (.039"). Has worked very well for me, with somewere around 270 crankhp. I´m aiming for 300+ rwhp and thinking of going to an 8 (no -11, wich by the way, stands for a gap of 1,1mm/.043")