510six

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=/Unfiled+Photos&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/my_photos I have used nitrous on a NA 3liter L series and a turbo L series motor, I used a NOS sportsman fogger kit for a V8 .Making over 350whp shouldn`t be a problem.Their are a lot of options for a nitrous setup it would all depend on weather you would prefer to add the fuel via the fuel injectors or from fogger nozzels.Just make sure that you have the appropriate saftey systems on the nitrous.Rpm window switch, full throttle switch, clutch switch,and a ignition upgrade would probably be in order, a rev limiter is a must (NOT A FUEL CUT ONE EITHER IF NITROUS GOES TOO LEAN BADD THINGS WILL HAPPEN).

In 6th gear at 70mph and driving without getting into boost 28mpg was the best I could do.But, the car was only turning 1600rpm.

A friend who is an exellent fabricator made a custom outlet for the turbo between #3-4 cly.The stock turbo would not the clear the 510 steering box. You can see pics of it in some of my pictures.The stock turbo flange is used to mount a external Audi 5000 turbo wastegate which is bypassed with a vacuum switch unless the nitrous is on to controll boost creep.The manifold was also ceramic coated inside and out and welded with nickel 99 wire ( expensive stuff).It`s a tight fit.

I don`t like the idea of pump gas.I drive my car on the street regularly...Wal-Mart, Sonic, ect.The best #`s I have posted at the track so far are 10.96@127.76 . On that day I drove 45 miles to the track, slicked up ran a 10.96 drove home.I have video and a timeslip if you would like.

I have a ATI comp dampner on my car and the crankshaft pulley is 3.5" and I was wondering if someone knew where I could have a reliable pulley fabricated.The car currently has a 2"GM pulley on the alternator and will drain the battery unless I am sustaining 2500rpm or above.Did I mention that the car has 3 electric fans and a electric water pump. So A 1.5" alternator pulley is in order. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=/Unfiled+Photos&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/my_photos

A wet shot of nitrous. does wonders to a turbo motor.

If you don`t want to run "race" gas you can always go to your local Hardware-Paint store and buy a couple of gallons of Tolulene (114 octane) and a quart of Xylene (118 octane) use at least 3 gallons of pump gas and it should give some octain without a pronounced "race" gas smell. For my water injection brew i mix 50% distilled water 45% detnatured alcohol(another paint store item) a couple of capfulls of airless paint sprayer anti corrosion additive and a couple of capfulls of water soluble oil to make 1 gallon of water injection fluid.

I have had two 3.0 stroker motors.The current one makes 535 rwh and 492fpt, my NA motor made 256rwh and 270fpt on N20.What I have learned is that if your going to build a 3liter have it statically and dynamically balanced and run a comp dampner.I learned that lesson after my flywheel came loose and $400 later I had a NISMO comp damper with a custom pully as I drove the car on the street.I am currently running a ATI dampner and can run it on the street only due to the fact that I run an electric water pump .3" crank pully and 2" pully on the alternator.I love the torque,but a friend of mine has a bone stock 280zxt motor in a 240z with a t3-t4 a front mount and 18psi boost and IT haul *ss.The 3 liter in NA form and turbo on N20 was-is awesome.The first motor was a junkyard parts congloberation, VG30(87mm) pistons L24 rods, Diesel crank.The second custom JE VG 30(87mm) pistons Cunninham rods and Diesel crank, both motors were raced preped and balanced.The first survived 80 10 lb bottles of N20 and is in my friends 240z now. The second has run numerous drag passes and runs low11`s high 10`s.

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=/Unfiled+Photos&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/my_photos Some pics of the car and drivetrain.It is just your typical turbo nitrous 6 speed 510.

I changed it,I will try to get an updated program to view the turbo only run and the torque figures.I was pleasantly suprized as my last dyno pull was 469rwh and 472fpt. vs. 535rwh and 492fpt for the new.A new learning curve via the wideband 02 on the dyno was introduced ,The nitrous is making a pressure spike for about 500rpm and then falling off .I am switching to -6 nitrous fittings and line and will fool the SDS into providing the extra fuel for the initial spike.(1150psi) and then tuning the fuel side of the port nitrous to make a more linear powerband to redline.With the wideband on the dyno a perfect 12.5-11.8 safe A/F ratio shoud be possible.I am hoping it yield some more horsepower and a lower E.T..

This is the first dyno run I have made since the liquid/air IC has been installed. The car also made 492FPT I have some more tuning to do on the nitrous as the a/f ratio was a little scary. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=/Unfiled+Photos&.dnm=lastscan+dyno+535.jpg

My 3.0 liter stroker made 469rwhp and 471fpt. With a bone stock 89 Supra CT26 turbo and a 200hp shot of nitrous to the wheels.I used JE pistons and Cunningham rods with a diesel crank and every ARP stud/bolt I could put on the motor.I think a L-28 with a T3/T4 and a set of forged pistons with a set of preped stock rods and a shot of port nitrous should be able to make 400hp with some level of relability.

The KA 24 tranny will bolt to the Lseries motors, however the the KA24 tranny sits at the same angle as the NAPz engines and will cause the Lseries motor slant at to great of an angle to the right.I have heard of an L series trans front halve being machined to accept the later KA 24 tranny, but I have never seen one in person.

I am currently using a Spearco tank for my water inject sytem and a pump I bought from Mc Master-Carr. At 12 psi of boost I am experiencing no detonation problems.I have the Hobb switch suppied with the kit turning on the WI at 5psi.My brew consists of ( for one gallon of water injection fluid) approximately 1/2 gallon of denatured alcohol, approximately 1/2 gallon of distilled water a couple of cap fulls of airless sprayer pump saver ( added to water it prevents rust) and a capfull of water soluble oil.The denatured alcohol should be avalible at any paint store or larger hardware store.I keep a plastic bottle of the stuff in the car and check it generally when I get gas.I do use a liquid to air IC at the track and when I want to go a bit faster on the street.

I have yet to break a Nissan U joint.I canott same the same for the Neapco units and I have had a friend of mine break Spicers.My option as far as the stock half shafts are becoming limited.As my 510 is slighty narrower than a 240z I will have to have custom length axels fabricated I am thinking about using Nissan R-200 inner cv`s and Porsche 930 turbo cv`s for the outers.

Does anyone know of a heavy duty U joint for the stock halfshafts. That is not Neapco or Spicer as the Nissan heavy duty soild units are NLA.

I can give you a pic http://photos.yahoo.com/sss510six .you might want to look at the "soft" plastic lines that NOS is using now it would be a much simpler install and save a bit of sanity.(I spent a full day bending Nitrous lines to the foggers)

The T-56 in my 510 was a serious pain to install and required reforming my tranny tunnel.I was planning on running a HUGE shot of nitrous off the line with slicks and wanted a tranny that could take the abuse.For the money I would just stick a T-5 in the car and run a aftermarket shifter.

The ECM is SDS , injector size is 490cc and the turbo is a CT26 off of a 89 Toyota Supra.The car has run a previous best of 10.96@127.76 with a best 60` of 1.60. I hope to best these marks in the near future.I plan on going to the Battle of the Imports at Famosa raceway in Bakersfield, CA on Oct. the 25-26th.

The dyno #`s were well before the IC.Some of the power gains I felt were due to a ATI dampner with a smaller crank pulley. It was a couple of inches longer than my previous NISMO dampner , so it necessitated a pair of electric fans being added in place of the mechanical fan I had on the car.I am guessing that the IC with icewater in it added around 50rwh from my seat of the pants dyno. btw I have put a serious hurt on a SR20 powered Dime .

Some pics of my Liquid to air IC and electric water pump http://photos.yahoo.com/sss510six I drove the car with ice water in the IC and it felt much stronger .I can`t wait to get the car to the track.