510six

Around 100 street /strip.A friend with a 240z and around 300rwh had the zx trannys last about a year.He just bought a BW T5 from the junk and installed it in His 240z with the option of upgrading to a World Class T5 or a GForce T5 kit in the future.I have seen the BW units last for over 2 years behind a 85 300zx turbo with a 100 rwh shot of N20 and a set of ET streets.

I used a short 63cm 4wd 721 truck transmission which is identical to a zx tranny except the tailshaft is shorter.The transmission lasted a several years behind a 2.8 then a 3 liter, when I started running a fairly large shot of N20 it lasted about a season of drag/street racing.That is with 260rwh and around 280fpt.

I ran a cutout from Summit and had a friend make a cable operated cutout using a TB bolt.It was really kinda cool as I could stage with a realativly quite car then hit the cutout right before I would launch or when a Honda revved on me.

I was just talking to a friend with a 240 and a L28et installed with a smallish T3/T4 and a frontmount 60mm TB and a WEB turbo cam and SDS with 420cc injectors and a bone stock bottom end.He runs a BW 5 speed ( you can rebuild kits on ebay).A friend of His just purchaced a 240z with a L28 with a P90 head and a N42 bottom end, so no more than 10psi of boost is adviseable.First, the motor uses a NA computer with a FMU and 370cc injectors and a NA dist.MSD 6AL BTM will controll the retard at boost.Then run at least a set of stock turbo pistons so 18-20 psi is possible.60mm TB and instead of running a FMIC run methanol injection and keep boost under 15psi.In my area 3 gen Toyota CT26 turbos can be had for $90 and they have a liquid cooled bearing.I made 275 rwh with the CT26 at 12 psi ( built 3 liter)so 15 psi in a stock motor should possibly make right around 250rwh.For a daily driver I think this should /would put the hurts on many a high performance car.With a good clutch and a a decent tranny and a R200 the car should put down decent times at the strip.

It`s kinda hard to see but. http://fresnoracing.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=10089

Were you tuning with a WB02?I have seen A/F reading that were WAY off due to a contaminated 02 sensor.The last time I was at the dyno my Tech Edge and their 02 were reading way off, I put my WB02 into the tailpipe of a brand new OBDII Toyota and it was 14.7 at idle...theirs was 12.5.They replaced the 02 and both units cycled together perfectly. As for an L series making more torque than HP my car on the N20 has always made more HP than torque 535 vs. 490.I would check the turbo for excessive sideplay, my bone stock CT26 turbo made 275rwh and 315fpt on the dyno and is only capable of flowing a fraction of what your turbo should.I have seen a number of Turbonetics turbos fail after only a short period of time on them.

I was just going to buy one of these units http://www.snowperformance.net/proddetail.asp?prod=auto030 and piece together the other parts from various sources.

Web makes a really nice turbo cam for the L series.I gained around .3 at the dragstrip with a switch from a mild street turbo cam to the biggest one they would suggest for limited street driving.

I have a friend who ran 22 psi of boost on His Eclipse with a 20g using pump gas in California 91 oct.http://www.snowperformance.net/ was the system He used .I am going to setup my own system using parts from http://www.coolingmist.com/ and an additive from http://www.klotzlube.com/ to controll corosion.I will be using the boost /voltage controll unit from Snow Performance to controll variable amounts of methanol and using a NOS solenoid controlled by the AEM EMS I will be using at lower boost levels.http://www.mcmaster.com/ on page 1904 sells misting nozzles for around $5 apiece.Hopefully I will be able to run 400rwh on the street with the new turbo and pump gas.

Running N20 is not for the meek.N20 is 37% 02 by and regulare outside air is 22% so your feeding your motor a mixure almost double the 02 content.If you add oxygen you must have a correct ratio of fuel 12.2- 11.6 to 1.This is where the jets come into play.There is alot to setting up a nitrous system properly.I can`t agree more with using the proper saftey systems.

I ran 12.55@110 on a all junkyard parts 3.0 liter stroker.with a 120hp shot to the wheels and ran about 80 10 lbthrough the motor in a year.You shouldn`t have problems granted that the air/fuel ration is tuned correctly.

I went to 10,000 RPM last Wensday (2 1/2 hour drive)and had the measurments taken to make a 7.5" dual disc clutch fit inside my bellhousing.I was very impressed and talked to a couple of Pacific Street Car association racers who were at the dyno on the facility. I was told that the new Kevlar discs can be run on the street and my dual disc setup will hold up to 750 rwh.The clutch should be ready on Monday.I was running a clutch speacialties 2600lb clutch with a sintered iron disc and it had to be changed out about every 5000 street/track miles and new wear surfaces had to be installed.The new clutch when setup should last quite a while, my clutch was more expensive than the $895 due to the Kevlar discs being custom made to drag racing specs. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=15c7&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

http://www.coolingmist.com I looked into Methanol compatable injectors http://www.delphibrandguide.com/download/DPSS-03-E-041.pdf#search='delphi%20injectors' Delphi sells several Methanol compatable injectors.I decided against going with the fuel injectors and using three fuel misters located radialy in the intake tract right after the intercooler.http://www.snowperformance.net/ sells a voltage /pressure controll that uses a MAP sensor to read boost controll pressure and supply a valiable amount of methanol depending on engine load/boost.I will be using this in addition to a NOS solenoid pulsing at lower boost levels to ensure a controllable mixture.

BRC will make a set of custom pistons without rings or wrist pins for 500.I am going to be using VG30dett stock rings on my pistons .And the wrist pins from the JE`s were still goog so the pistons are going to cost me 500, plus 15 shipping.

http://www.brcpistons.com/ I am having a set of custom pistons built by BRC ,As well as another member of this site.They quoted me a price of 700 for 6 pistons with rings and wrist pins included.They were very helpfull and a few friends of mine runing land speed cars won`t use pistons from anyone else.

Just pulled the motor/tranny out of the 510.IT had 4 burnt pistons from running lean on the N20 .and the head wil have to be welded and re surfaced.I talked to both JE and Ross about a set of pistons and JE has a 90 day wait and Ross has only a 3 week turn around.So I will be using Ross pistons, after around 200 drag launches on a huge shot of N20 I can`t really complain as the motor has held up quite well to this point. I just purchased a t3 t4 turbo with a 60 comp housing and a 60 trim wheel and the plan is to run around 15psi of boost on the street with methanol injection and 20 psi with a bit more methanol when the liquid -air IC is activated. Hoping for 400rwh at 20psi of boost,then addding whatever shot of N20 it takes to make 550rwh with race gas.As several friends of mine are familiar with AEM EMS I will be running their race only system as soon as it is avalable.I want to add the fuel for the N20 via the injectors and have the EMS controll everything.http://www.aempower.com/ . 10,000 rpm will be making a twin disc pro street style clutch for the 510 as The current sintered iron clutch disc only lasts about 5000 miles before a rebuilt is neccesary.With the twin disc setup the car should be a more "streetable" vechicle and the rebuilds will be fewer.http://www.10000rpm.com/ .All I really want is a 510 that will blow off a Viper on the freeway and be able to run a 10 sec 1/4 mile drving to the track.While handling reasonably well in street trim.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=15c7&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos never heard of anybody getting a T56 onto an L28et (anybody dunnit)... My 510 has had a T56 in it for several years.What I meant by semi-tough is tranny that could take a reasonable amount of abuse in a z car.A World Class T5 is a stronger tranny than the T5 put into the 82-83 z cars.G Force currnetly makes a upgraded T5 kit http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp .For about the same price as a TKO.

I personally waiting for the universal AEM race-only system.As I am planning on running methanol injection with pump gas and 20psi on the street and a 150hp shot of N20 to the wheels when on race gas.AEM provides all of the inputs I will need (and then some).I am planning on runing my current dist/MSD ignition with the AEM then converting to a 6cyl Ford EDIS crank triggered system with a MSD DIS. It all depends on what your looking to do.For a street/strip NA ,turbo motor SDS works great.But, If a person wants to controll N20 via the EMS or run a progressive methanol injection system.Run a WB02 with dattalogging built in to several parameters.Wants traction controll, anti lagg ...ect.AEM will provide all of that and numerous friends of mine are familiar with the setup and tunning. I want a 400rwh car on 20psi of boost on the street with pump gas(methanol injection).On the strip I want 550 rwh on a 150hp shot of N20 on race gas.

Most of the Mustang guys I knew that broke T5`s were hard shifts into 3rd.A friend was wanting to go with a budget semi - tough tranny.The Mechanic who put my T56 behind the L series motor suggested using a World class T5 from a later model Mustang 5.0 as these were the strongest T5`s.A custom clutch disc will have to be made and spacing issues with the input shaft will have to be dealt with as well as driveline issues. I would imagine He will be using my 2600 lb pressure plate and flywheel with a custom Kevlar clutch disc. http://www.10000rpm.com/ will custom fabricate Kevlar clutch discs.I am planning on using one of there Pro Stock twin disc clutches in front of the T56 as I am tired of pulling the tranny/clutch every 5,000 miles due to wear from my current 2600lb pressure plate and sintered iron clutch disc.The clutch disc actually wears the contact surface of the Aluminum flywheel and the pressue plate.The twin disc clutch should be easier to drive on the street as well.The sintered iron clutch is more of an on/off switch now.

A good budget turbo 3 liter combo is LD crank , L24 9mm rods with ARP bolts, and VG30dett pistons.The VG30dett pistons can take a 100hp per cyl if you don`t detonate.

The motor had over 200 drag passes on N20 so I would imagine that the rod bearings would need to replaced.The Pistons are VG30dett types from JE with L series valve relives and Cunningham rods I don`t hear any indication of broken pistons so hopefully the rings are bad.Worst case senario is a new set of pistons and .5 millimeter overbore.I will have a valve job done as well since the motor is apart.The headgasket is a NISMO multi layer SS unit but with nitrous I could see the gasket getting torched between cyls.As the cyls are "O" ringed with SS wire it would have to be one serious blowout.I am thinking a piston would give it up first.But, one never knows.

I did a leakdown and compression test on my 3 liter today and found #2-3 cyl were at 15% leakdown while the rest were at 4-5%. The compression test showed 150psi on 1-4-5-6 and 135 on 2-3 so it`s time for the motor to come apart.I didn`t hear any much air past the valves so I might have some broken rings(I`m guessing). I`ll know for sure when the motor is torn down, I`m just amazed it has lasted so well from all the abuse I have thrown at it.A friend with a VW running similar times has gone through 3 motors and I can`t imagine any Honda holding up to as many repeated drag launches as this motor has.

Talk to a friend of mine Vern at Raver Motorsports .They just ran over 220mphwith a 96 300zxtt on the salt at Bonneville using a modified stock computer...something akin to a Hondatta system , but akin to Nissan ECU.(559)7334711.

I ran a return type regulator and a Holley blue pump with a low fuel pressure switch.When I was running dead end regulators I would have to "purge" my fuel system It was a PITA and inconsistant.I may have a solution check your PM`s

I disagree with the relability of the L6 I have a "built" Turbo N20 L6 stroker motor and I have over 200 drag launches on it and around 15,000 street miles.The reliabilty of a stock parts L6 tends to be around 300rwh and the major limitation I have seen is the stock pistons.When is the last time you heard of someone throwing a rod on a L series motor?I had an all junkyard parts NA 3 liter stroker that race prepped with a cam and header and a 120hp shot of N20 to the wheels.I ran over 80 10 lb bottles of N20 thru the motor in a year with no major relability issues.The car made 256rwh and 278fpt and would run 12`s all day long.My current car is getting a motor freshening up then I plan on running a bigger turbo and a smaller shot of N20, still making over 500rwh.That said a junkyard turbo motor with some upgrades to it will be a pretty quick car. A friend on mine on this site 240prace owns a 240z that we just put my old SDS sytem on.He has a t3/t4 turbo with a 50AR housing and a 57 trim wheel on the impeller and a front mount IC with a 60mm TB and a turbo x blowoff valve with 2.5" tubbing for the turbo/IC and 3" exhaust.This is a junkyard bottom end with a rebuld after He detonated and broke some stock pistons.He will be running around 15psi of boost and making around 300rwh until He puts forged pistons in the motor and can up the boost to 20 or so psi.The car has run a 12.9 ( and that being the drivers first ever pass at a dragstrip).