510six

I have a friend who has a couple of VQ six speeds in His shop. You can email Him at ravermotorsports@earthlink.net ask for Vern.I am not sure how much HP these trannies can take.With 650-700 hp I would look at running at least a 6 point cage in the car and strut bars front and rear.A R230 conversion should be able to handle those power levels quite well.

The regulator has a port to increase fuel pressure on a 1-1 ratio with boost.I used the same style regulator for the fuel side of my nitrous system it would increase the fuel pressure as boost came up to compensate for the greater pressure in the manifold.If I was running 6psi fuel pressue + 14psi of boost the boost port on the regulator would add 14psi of pressue.I used a Holley blue pump as well with the output pressure increased to 25psi.

You might check some of the VW forums as the draw thur 4 barrel turbo setup is very popular.A MSD boost timimg master would help to retard timing under boost.A stock turbo manifold and a turbo that would work with a draw thru setup.

I hit 152mph on a Highway In CA testing the N20.You have to remember I have the aerodynamics of a shoe box.L30 stroker , turbo N20 and T56 six speed from a 98 Camero.3.70 rear end gears.I am to afraid to see what the car would do in 6th after a a burst to 152 in 5th .

Does anyone have the phone number for JSK as it is not listed on His web site.?

I personally perfer the sound of my L30 stroker with open exhaust when the N20 hits.The motor sounds like it is Really pissed off.

What about using the vacuum pump off of A Diesel Maxima?.The pump is located on the back of the alternator .I was thinking about doing this and routing the vacuum pump into an aircraft style oil/air seperator and running the oil back into the crankcase.

I am running a Clutch Specalties 225mm 2600lb pressure plate and sintered iron disc.So far it has held more than 500rwh on slicks ay the dragstrip.Clutch specalties also built the clutch in my NA N20 car which was a quite streetable clutch at a reasonable price and it was a Kevlar composite on the flywheel side and a six puck on the pressure plate side so I had no issues with wear surfaces on an aluminum flywheel being destroyed with 260rwh and 280fpt. Again this was for a 225mm clutch a 240mm would hold that much better. http://www.clutchspecialties.com/

I had a similar problem happen to a 510 that I had some years back.I wasn`t running Pertronix, but a Crane Cams photo optical system that used a plastic piece that went over the top of the dist shaft.Well it slipped and I couldn`t figure it out until I pulled out a timing light.Couple of drops of Krazy glue fixed that one.

Would anyone happen to have His phone #?

The Tech Egde is a great WB02.I used the dattalogging feature on my last trip to the dyno and it matched the dyno`s LSM WB.A couple of weeks ago I talked to a represenative from what was EMS fuel injection http://www.fuel-injection.com/products.htm http://www.ptrsds.com/ems_stinger_4424.htm http://www.cbperformance.com/ will be selling an upgraded version of the 4424 system , but they were insistant on a cheaper WB02 being used.I offered up my dyno charts and the Tech Edge dattalogging readouts as proof of the LSU`s sensors accuracy.The rep took the info back to Austraila and I was told some results should be forthcoming in a couple of weeks.The price of the upgraded 4424 sytem should be less than posted above due to the cheaper 02 sensor.When I receive my system I will post features and cost if you would like.

Those injectors would be major overkill for 400hp. I am planning on using 72lb injectors to make 550 wheel horsepower .If you "only" want 400 flywheel hp then Bosch 036 420cc injectors will make 400 flywheel hp.JSK sells a barbed fuel rail to use with these injectors.

After much trial and experience, I decided to upgrade my SDS EM-4D with 420cc injectors , as I am running a very large shot of nitrous using a deticated fuel pump, regulator ect. I want to make the system much safer by adding the fuel via the fuel injectors and will be using a JSK fuel rail and 880cc "O" ring injectors plus my Volvo 240 turbo fuel pump will be replaced by a Aeromotive 800hp unit..I also wanted dattalogging with a wideband and the ability to upgrade later.The EMS system has all of the fuctions that I require and a reasonable price and good tech support. http://www.ptrsds.com/8860_sequential_motorsport.htm

My question would be"how big of a shot do you want to run".For a 50-80rwh shot using 2 fogger nossels after each carb would work fine.For any more of a shot I would run a port system with a dedicated fuel system to the nitrous. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=15c7&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos If you want more detail on how to setup a nitrous system without blowing up your motor PM me.

2* for every 50rwh is my rule of thumb I use.What saftey sytems are you using? I wouldn`t shoot more than a 80rwh shot on a L series motor with a single fogger as #1 cyl will tend to run lean .With a port N20 system the sky is the limit.I would personally run a larger fuel pump with the bigger shot.(over 100rwh).For saftey sytem I would suggest using a RPM window switch MSD makes a very reasonable one.A full throttle switch and a clutch switch as well as afuel pressure switch.A bottle heater is a must as well.I going to be using LPG as a fuel for my nitrous system and setting it up this winter.The reason being is that any turbo N20 motor will have an initial lean spot when the nitrous is first engaged due to the nitrous reaching the cylinder before the fuel.Nitrous traveling at 1000psi and fuel traveling at 70psi max.This will cause the turbo to spool up and a boost creep to occur, while lean for abour 500 rpm.With LPG traveling at 450psi it will reach the cylinder withing .002 of a second of the nitrous.I will be selling my seperate fuel system for my nitrous in the near future.

FJ 20 rods came in early 80`s Skylines.The cars were never sold in the USA.AS DAW said the LD 28 and the L20b both share the same deck height.

I had a friend at work tell me that I was on pay per view TV yesterday.This morning He shows me a tape of my 510 street racing several years ago (I killed a 5.0 Mustang) with my old N/A N20 setup.the the tape goes to my car at the track doing a burnout then running an 11.1 turbo N20.The announce says this is the same car with a different paint job.I about fell over, at least they blacked out the licence plate.I will try to post the video, but it was from a VHS tape.

I was mearly stating my experience with 3 liter strokers. Both of my motors were drag raced and were subject to multiple shots of N20.If I was building another 3 liter I would insist on running a comp dampner with it.My current motor has over 150 drag launches on it has over 500rwh and numerous low 11 sec passes with a best nof 10.96 @127.I figured a comp dampner was preferable to having a flywheel come loose at 7000rpm.

You have a PM.

I had actually looked at putting FJ20 rods in my 3 liter.Vern at Raver Motorsports had a set of FJ rods and I was considering using them and came across a set of Cunnninghams that were 133mm and had not been paid for.A 140mm rod will work but just barely.I also tried to find a set of L13 rods that were supposed to be avalable for 510`s sold in Mexico that were 139.9mm long.Unobtainium.I was talked into using after market rods after a friends race motor put a rod through a block.Stock FJ20 rods are awfully beefy pieces, so with ARP rod bolts I don`t really see that happening.Good luck.I have one other thing to say about 3 liters, in my experience a compition dampner must be used if the motor is to be reved over 6500rpm.ATI now makes a really kick butt SFI race aproved dampner to deal with a 3 liters torsional vibrations.I have had flywheel and crank dampner bolts both come loose with 3 liters and both motors were race balanced both statically and dynamically by a very compitent race machince shop.A Nismo comp dampner can be used but red Locktight the crank dampner and flywheel bolts.

Jared, my first 3 liter stroker used 240z 9mm rods and VG30 87mm pistons.A 140mm rod can be used with custom pistons,My current setup uses 133mm custom rods and the custom pistons use the same pin heigth as VG 30 dett pistons.The VG 30 and VG30dett both have pistons with a pin heigth that is 6mm less than a L series pistons.Back a few years ago a very common motor combination in 4 cyl L series motors was to use 152mm Napz 2.0 liter rods and block with VG30 pistons and a L20B crank and head.With the longer rods (152mm vs. 146mm) and 2mm overbore VG30 pistons (87mm) this created a 2040.Using a 140mm FJ20 rod would not be possible with VG30 pistons with a LD or L28 crank.With a 73.7mm 240z crank and 140mm FJ rods and VG30et pistons would put the pistons down around 2mm or so in the bore, I would imagine such a motor would rev to the moon.I personally like the grunt torque of a 3 liter .

I was thinking of converting the fuel system for my nitrous to LPG as when the nitrous is first activated an initial lean condition is present for around 500rpm then the A/F ratio goes dead rich( below 10-1).This is because the nitrous is traveling at 1100psi and my fuel travels at 6psi.With the LPG traveling at 450psi the difference in speed to the cylinder would only be a few thousanths of a second.An additional benefit is that with both N20 and LPG intoduced as liquids and then converting to gasses additional intercooling would take place.The wideband on the dyno and the Tech Edge in my car both confirm this.

I was discussing possible solutions with 240zprace ,to the problem of most FMU`s running very rich at high boost levels and having a limited ability to tune it.The one option is a stand alone FI system SDS ect or using a Jim Wolf 450HP VG30 compter plug and play. My solution after a bit of thought would be a dry N20 system activated at 10psi or so with a Hobb switch.The plumbing and electrical would be relativly simple and the extra fuel could be made to serve a really usefull purpose...extra HP.Not to mention the intercooling effect of N20 and the ability to tune for optimun Hp with a wideband and a few nitrous jets.

I have had two 3 liter stroker motors built and one thing I would recomend is to have the motor statically and dynamically ballanced.The first motor which was a NA and FI had the flywheel bolts back out due to torsional vibrations along the crank at high RPM`s.This was fixed to a degree with a NISMO comp dampner.But the dampner bolt had to be checked ever 6 months or so.I was reving the motor to 7 grand on a regular basis and would suggest that if the motor is going to be spun over 6500 RPM that a comp crank worm gear and spindle for the dist drive and oil pump is used.The tortional problem was finallly fixed with the addition of a ATI SFI approved crank dampner, but due to the small crank pully a helper electric water pump was installed as well as a custom pully for the alternator.Both of my motors use 133mm rods and 87mm pistons , the first being stock 240z 9mm rods with ARP rod bolts and stock VG30 core motor pistons.The second using Cunningham rods and 87MM JE pistons.I use a Japanese only N33 casting which would be most similar to a N42.

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=/15c7&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos Vern at Raver motorsports in Visalia CA has a raced preped 3 liter block ready to build.My motor has held up to over 150 drag launches and low 11 sec passes.Isn`t a TD06 a 20G Mitsubishi turbo?And capable of 375-400 rwh?That should be no problem with a built 3 liter.