510six

https://s27.postimg.org/4xh8ww47n/10_K_3_PLATE.jpg https://s24.postimg.org/488m26igl/t56_L.jpg The reason a T56 was chosen for my application was that I needed a transmission that could take the shock load of drag strip launches with a large shot of N20 on slicks and be freeway driven. The transmission is from a 98 F body , a Rockland Standard gear drag kit was later installed the input shaft bearing was located in the flywheel Honda style. It is pretty amazing how tough the T56 transmission is even in stock form , provided the urge to speed shift is resisted.

Actually, I should have been clearer , same bottom end one with a small turbo and a large shot of nitrous using 110 oct. race gas( with the N20) and a mildly ported head and intake . On the nitrous it was a low 11 high 10 second car. The second with a well ported N42 head and intake with large exhaust valves and a T67 turbo with 17 pounds of boost and a better exhaust the boost came on VERY hard at about 3800 rpm. 91oct with methanol as 30% of the total fuel.. Using sequential injection via the AEM the car delivered 31mpg with a 6 speed transmission provided you stayed out of boost ...... My current project is a all stock parts N42 with a upgraded Toyota CT26 (57 trim) with a stock T5 transmission. The plan is to use the stock wiring harness with an AEM series 1 EMS using an adapter harness . I would like to have Flex Fuel capabilities with 91 oct or E85 and I am looking for a conservative 300rwh.

These are some old dyno sheets of a 3 liter stroker turbo motor . SDS EMS AEM EMS 420cc 036 injectors 72lb Siemens Deka Injectors + 2 160lb injectors in the intake track using 230 whp wet shot of N20 methanol as 30% of the total fuel under boost. Stock Toyota CT26 turbo T67 Precision turbo .81 exhaust with a P-trim N42 Head mildly ported Professionally ported N42 head WEB custom ground turbo cam Non EGR N42 intake cut, ported, welded. JE 88mm pistons BRC 88.5mm forged pistons. Cunningham 133mm rods VO7 Diesel Crank N42 Block race prepped.

When I made the statement "and to ensure seating of asbestos gaskets" it inferred the process of installation. Spell check is usually my friend, I would also wonder how many 40 or even 30+ year old brake pads/ shoes , clutch discs are still on regularly driven z cars. And yes I know depending on the country of origin that new brake pads, shoes and clutch discs can contain asbestos. My main point is check the exhaust manifold to make sure it is not warped as turbo manifolds have a habit of warping and blowing out gaskets. Some years ago I had an exhaust manifold cut .010" to true it after relocating the turbo outlet and had the intake cut to match as the motor was in a street/ strip car with a somewhat mild 3 liter stroker turbo motor that turned into a real beast with an over 200 shot of N20 to the wheels and with a stock zxt gasket it never leaked.

Water is a vital part of keeping asbestos fibers from becoming atomized while performing abatement, and to ensure seating of asbestos gaskets. But with a warped manifold hot gasses will pass evaporating the moisture content and making the gasket fryable. This is less of an issue in old steam lines with asbestos gaskets due to moisture present, I have seen old asbestos gaskets become fryable when used to vent exhaust gases in enclosed (basement) generators if leaks develop on the sealing surfaces.

I actually have my asbestos abatement certificate in CA . Unless the gasket has material that becomes atomized, the technical term is fryable.It is not harmful, however once the material is handled the fibers can become fryable.That said, your exhaust manifold is most likely warped , check it with s straight edge . Putting an asbestos gasket on a warped manifold would have a tendency to distribute asbestos fibers.

I am looking for an undamaged speedometer pinion sleeve from an 83 turbo automatic or a 84-89 Z31 automatic transmission.

Vern at RaVer Motorsports also built another 3 liter , this one with 133mm Cunningham rods and forged 87mm JE VG30 pistons with L series valve reliefs . With a small T4 turbo and a large shot of N20 the motor made 535rwh . Using VG pistons you don't have to resize the L24 rods as the pin diameter is the same at 21mm.

Some years ago my engine builder put together a long block with diesel crank L24 rods and VG30et pistons. With an N42 head I ran about 80 10lb. bottles of N20 through that motor with no ill effects. I personally like the L24 rod VG piston route as your getting a piston already built for forced induction.

Turbocharged big boost air cooled VW's used to launch dipsticks, a standard fix was to put a spring on the dipstick... they leaked oil anyways regardless. I had a similar issue when running a very large shot of nitrous with a turbo L motor, the solution was to use an aircraft style air/oil separator with a drain back with a 5 micron filter to the oil pan below the oil level a friend who was an aircraft mechanic suggested the solution and it worked like a charm, as I recall we used a Isuzu Diesel fuel filter housing and other than the drain back to the tank it was similar to the link below. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=DIY-An-OilAir-Separator&A=110826 Tony mentioned something potentially clogged, I have seen the thick metal screen that is inside the block become clogged especially when a high paraffin oil was used . On your next oil change pull the pvc breather tube from the block and spray some carb cleaner into the hole I have had success with 4 cylinder L motors that were acting like the PVC was clogged .

When I ran sequential on my 3.0 using AEM EMS Ford EDIS VR sensors were used , the cam sensor was a VR unit from a 2005 Mustang. I ended up using a hall effect for the csm sensor as the signal was too weak for the AEM to always synch. An 81 turbo distributor was used with a rare earth magnet epoxied too the rotor the sensor was fitted in the base at #1 . A cut down aluminum 4" measuring cup was used with crinkle paint for the cap. Looked stock.

Congrations, going to the V8 swap myself.

There is nothing wrong with the N42 head it just raises the compression ratio to 8.3to 1 in a turbo motor. It just means you won't be able to run as much boost with pump gas. The setup in the L28et I am selling is with E85 as the fuel (105 octane) is a stock L28et bottom end with a rebuilt N42 head. With E85 the setup should be good to over 300rwh and have better low end response than a standard L28et. If you ran a simple methanol injection kit you could get away with running increased boost levels.

After looking at several 260-280 z cars I finally found a rust free CA car with a decent interior factory AC and AT . The plan is for a LQ9 Chevrolet 6 liter V8 with a auto trans and the suspension and brakes will be upgraded before hand. The L28 and auto currently in the car work great so it will be something to drive and have some fun with in the meantime. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

After looking at several 260-280 z cars I finally found a rust free CA car with a decent interior factory AC and AT . The plan is for a LQ9 Chevrolet 6 liter V8 with a auto trans and the suspension and brakes will be upgraded before hand. The L28 and auto currently in the car work great so it will be something to drive and have some fun with in the meantime. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I have had two T67 turbo's on my car a plain bearing unit from Limit Motorsports and a BB unit from Precision turbo. The plain bearing unit from Limit with a stage 5 exhaust wheel was under a grand in cost and is quite capable of making big horsepower. http://www.limitengineering.com/

17 psi, the clutch slipped at 440 rwh and 18 psi. We were on the way to 500rwh (the goal).

I used a T67 for the build in the 3 liter stroker in the 510 ,the BB T67 spools by 4k rpm and pulls VERY hard once in boost. The turbo is/was even being used on a mostly stock L28 with 7.5 -9.5 psi , the turbo spools fine on the smaller engine . Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I just sent my T67 back to Precision for the second time to replace the ball bearing cartridge. I purchased a plain bearing T67 from Limit Motorsports and wished I had left it on the car as the cartridge from the Precision went bad running 7.5psi in less than 5k street miles and took out a motor due to oil contamination from the turbo. Unless major changes have been made to the ball bearing cartridges from Precision I would strongly suggest using a reliable product from another manufacturer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkSunzu24J0&feature=related AEM two step anti lag , I prefer nitrous to spool the turbo .

PM me.

You could, my setup is very similar.The problem is that once the Datsun T5 bellhousing is bolted to the adaptor a Datsun T5 front bearing retainer will be needed. The issue from this point is that the T56 input shaft does not reach the back of the crankshaft, or even the flywheel so the T5 bellhousing was milled and welded to an aluminum adaptor plate and a GM pilot bearing was placed in the aluminum flywheel. It is more than a simple bolt in as the steel adaptor and the T5 bellhousing would both have to be milled and the setup in my car saves 20lbs and didn't sacrafice any strenght. Unless you need a transmission for repeated drag strip abuse over 400 rwh on slicks I would use the Z32 units, they are easier to shift (a T56 with a Hurst shifter shifts like a truck when cold, but is spot on when the revs are up and the trans is warm) .

I was hooking up an USB extention on the desktop and used a thumb drive to check the connection and came across these dyno sheets. It adds some motivations to get the "built" 3 liter back in the car and to pull the turbo( to be rebuilt) this weekend. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

If the rest of the pistons are OK, why not just sleeve one cylinder and source one L28et piston. A bone stock L28et with the right supporting mods is capable of over 300rwh.